a96beretta

alright, i have an 87 n/a with a 91 tii engine, i have recently finished doing all of the wiring for the swap and upon trying to run it for the first time i could only get spark, so i thought it was the wrong ecu (it was an n374) so i bought an n374 that had been modified to run a US car and now i have no spark and no fuel. i have checked all of the wiring multiple times and it has all come up fine, i even tried going back to the other ecu and i still get nothing. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME IM ABOUT TO LOOSE IT!!

a96beretta

Bump!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does your Main Relay click w/the key to on.

a96beretta

i think so, where is it at? i will check it as soon as i get home

satch

iTrader: (1)

It's located near the trailing coil, mounted to that fender, two plugs, one has 4 wires, the other has two wires.

a96beretta

ok i checked the relay and its working fine, any other ideas?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does the B/Y wire at the leading coil have voltage w/key to on? Does the Green check connector w/three wires near the leading coil have voltage w/key to on on the B/W wire?

a96beretta

i will check that as soon as i get home, i will also be checking the crank angle sensor

a96beretta

Ok, I just checked and both of those wires are getting power and the crank angle sensor is getting signal to the ecu

satch

iTrader: (1)

How do you know you are not getting fuel? How are you checking for spark?

Checking for spark. Best way is to remove the spark plug boots from the leading coil and placing the boots back on the coil bores but leaving them just barely hanging on the coil bores and then start the car and look for the presence of spark.

Checking for fuel. Best way is to disconnect the return line and place the end of the hose into a plastic jug. Then jumper the fuel check connector. Then turn the key to on and the fuel should fill up the jug.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If the engine is a JDM TII engine then the fuel flow is reversed.
It should get fuel to the primaries..The JDM lines are just in different positions so it is easy to get them reversed,so that fuel is flowing backwards to the rail.
The "easiest way" to confirm if the engine is getting fuel is just swap the lines at the engine.
If it starts and runs then that was your problem.

satch

iTrader: (1)

^Very good point. Do it!

a96beretta

Ok, what I mean by no fuel is the injectors are not firing and I have a noid light on one of the injector plugs, and for checking spark i have re routed a plug wire by the windshield, put a plug in it, and grounded the outside of the plug. For the engine I don't think it is a jdm but really I have no idea, the previous owner just put. The turbo motor in and quit after that

satch

iTrader: (1)

The secondary injectors do not work w/key to start or at idle either as they come on w/load in addition to the rpm being over 3800 rpm. So have you been cheking a primary injector or a secondary injector as it makes a difference?

And testing for spark as suggested rules out bad plug wires and or plugs.

a96beretta

It is on one of the lower center injectors

a96beretta

Oh, and every now and again I will get a single spark as soon as I start cranking or as soon as I let off of the key

613nn

Try this.. Turn the key on, but don't start it with the key. Instead, jump the starter solenoid. I will explain more about this after your car starts.

a96beretta

Well I did what you said and it still won't fire the plugs or injectors

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Question:
which wiring are you using to go to the engine?
is it the S4 N/A wiring or did you Fandangle the S5 TII wiring to the engine?
Also,is it Possible to get a hold of an N370ECU?(if you are indeed running it as S5 and not an S5 with S4 wiring scenario)

satch

iTrader: (1)

Below is for an S5 engine w/S5 ECU and S5 sensors.

If you had key to on and measured for voltage on the Brown/White wire of the Pressure Sensor does it have 5 volts? This will tell you if the ECU is powered up properly.

ECU pins 3W and 3Y (primary injectors) should have 12 volts w/key to on. This tells you that the injector plugs are mated to the injectors properly and are also receiving power.

The Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil w/key to on and the Main Pulley rotated by hand the voltage on this wire flips back and forth between 0 volts and 5 volts. It will stay at one voltage setting for most of the pulley rotation and then change to the other voltage setting for just a moment before switching back to the other voltage value. This is the trigger from the ECU to fire the coil. Rotating the alternator pulley will turn the Main Pulley.

And the coils need to be mounted against the fender for proper grounding purposes.

a96beretta

the engine harness is s5 except where it connects to the body harness next to the ecu, I actually bought it from a guy on eBay who had done an s4 to s5 swap so the 2 connectors were already wired up. also it is all s5 electronics (whats left after removing emissions and such) and after hours of scouring the internet i have not been able to come up with an n370 that was not priced ridiculously high

a96beretta

Ok, power at the pressure sensor and injectors are good but the coil only gets 5mv continuously

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Main Pulley needs to rotate a fair amount before the voltage change will occur. Did you make sure this pulley was being rotated enough to let the voltage change to occur?

And can you explain your mentioning of the CAS and how you knew it was getting the proper signal to the ECU?

EDIT: The CAS related wiring has a Grey wire that is a ground. Is this wire grounded?

a96beretta

I rotated the engine at least 5 revolutions before removing the cover on the crank angle sensor and watching the teeth pass by the sensor inside

a96beretta

Sorry didn't read fully, to check the sensors I cranked the car and watched for each sensor to produce an ac voltage, it was not a substantial amount but it was doing something