Nikki Troubleshooting
06-08-12, 08:04 PM
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Nikki Troubleshooting
Appologies if this post is not appropriate, im new! This will be a lengthy post, I hope i can cover all the bases.
I have an 85 rx-7 with vin: JM1FB3318F0881114
Im not sure what the breakdown of the code is, but I know that it has a 12a, and a nikki 4bl
this car ran a few years ago, my father in law used to drive it regularly. It became too small for his needs, and it sat in a field for a few years. I then took ownership and brought it into my garage.
after trying to start the car the for a few days, i took the original carb apart and 1 of the floats was missing, and everything was extremely nasty looking. so i purchased a "rebuilt" nikki carb on ebay. The carb i purchased, i was told had been modified for no emmission bs. I installed this carb onto my car and hooked up the rats nest to the best of my ability (there is more rats nest than carb ports).
car would idle until u shut it off, but would not accelerate. I towed it to a mechanic that used to race an rx-7 back in the day and he tinkered with it for a year in his spare time with no luck, he said "its deffinatly something in the carb" and it would cost me 400 to have him rebuild it. so i brought the car back home.
Today i installed my boat battey into the car, and stuck it on a charger. I put 2 1/2 gallons of gas into the tank, and disconnected the fuel to the carb. Turned the key on and am DEFINETLY getting fuel to the carb. so i hooked the fuel back up.
1st, 2nd, 3rd attempt of starting the car. Choke on. Car just cranks.
- i poured a small amount of gas into the carb
4th attempt, car cranks, and then fires and idles for a few seconds before shutting off.
- i poured a little larger abount into the carb
5th attempt, car fires and runs for a few seconds longer than before, then shuts off.
car sounds great. sounds strong, no abnormal noises.
I have had the FSM since the begining, and have tried to use it to get the results im seeking, however im lost at this point. I want to try and take the Nikki apart, and check to see what might be causing an issue. Any suggestions on what i should be looking for?
Also, i installed a mr gasket 42s fuel pump to replace the non-working stock fuel pump... is this enough fuel pump?
I have an 85 rx-7 with vin: JM1FB3318F0881114
Im not sure what the breakdown of the code is, but I know that it has a 12a, and a nikki 4bl
this car ran a few years ago, my father in law used to drive it regularly. It became too small for his needs, and it sat in a field for a few years. I then took ownership and brought it into my garage.
after trying to start the car the for a few days, i took the original carb apart and 1 of the floats was missing, and everything was extremely nasty looking. so i purchased a "rebuilt" nikki carb on ebay. The carb i purchased, i was told had been modified for no emmission bs. I installed this carb onto my car and hooked up the rats nest to the best of my ability (there is more rats nest than carb ports).
car would idle until u shut it off, but would not accelerate. I towed it to a mechanic that used to race an rx-7 back in the day and he tinkered with it for a year in his spare time with no luck, he said "its deffinatly something in the carb" and it would cost me 400 to have him rebuild it. so i brought the car back home.
Today i installed my boat battey into the car, and stuck it on a charger. I put 2 1/2 gallons of gas into the tank, and disconnected the fuel to the carb. Turned the key on and am DEFINETLY getting fuel to the carb. so i hooked the fuel back up.
1st, 2nd, 3rd attempt of starting the car. Choke on. Car just cranks.
- i poured a small amount of gas into the carb
4th attempt, car cranks, and then fires and idles for a few seconds before shutting off.
- i poured a little larger abount into the carb
5th attempt, car fires and runs for a few seconds longer than before, then shuts off.
car sounds great. sounds strong, no abnormal noises.
I have had the FSM since the begining, and have tried to use it to get the results im seeking, however im lost at this point. I want to try and take the Nikki apart, and check to see what might be causing an issue. Any suggestions on what i should be looking for?
Also, i installed a mr gasket 42s fuel pump to replace the non-working stock fuel pump... is this enough fuel pump?
06-08-12, 11:55 PM
#5
Cruise the for sale section for a used operational nikki...eliminate the emissions if that is an option for you and keep your vacuum advance. you shouldn't spend more than a 100 bucks on a rebuilt stock nikki, tear your old one apart for the learning experience. Good Luck.
06-08-12, 11:59 PM
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haha sweet. this is my 1st rotary as well... and mines an 85...not sure anything else lol. im pretty technical and very determined so im sure ill get to the bottom of this soon.
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06-09-12, 09:40 AM
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i guess this forum is all about talking about your hopes and dreams, until you get to level 20 in order to post in a place where people acutaly pay attention to the posts.
im gonna go try and start my car again... spray some b12 in it and hope it doesnt blow up.
i saw a instruction thread on how to remove the rats nest.. maybe ill try this today and see what happens.. ill post an update soon. see if i cant become a worthy user.
im gonna go try and start my car again... spray some b12 in it and hope it doesnt blow up.
i saw a instruction thread on how to remove the rats nest.. maybe ill try this today and see what happens.. ill post an update soon. see if i cant become a worthy user.
06-09-12, 10:50 AM
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REMOVING THE SOLENOID RACK
This is the tricky part of the equation. It's not super hard, but it will require some creativity and understanding to do. Again, the only reason to do this is to clean up the engine bay and get something else that doesn't need to be there outta there.
On top of the engine is the metal vacuum spider - a maze of metal vacuum lines. The majority of these are emissions-related. You have to remove the upper intake manifold to have access. Mind, I'll try to note the differences, but there's quite a few differences from '86-88 and '89-91, as well as NA and Turbo.
Easiest way to describe this is what you'll need when it's all done.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - this is on the end of the primary fuel rail. There is a nipple on the lower intake manifold pointing towards the firewall that is its vacuum source. When in doubt, check the vacuum diagram in the shop manual - stock, the source nipple connects to the vacuum spider, goes to the orange solenoid, then back to the FPR. The only thing the solenoid does is switch the FPR's vacuum reference from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. There is NO DIFFERENCE in driveability or starting with the solenoid not there.
OIL METERING INJECTORS - each of the 4 injectors has a vacuum line that connects to a round gang block, and from there it connects with a larger vacuum hose to the upper intake manifold.
PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.
SECONDARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - this is only on the '89-91 cars. There is a vacuum line going between the two secondary injector's bleed sockets, and another one sticking out to the side of the #2 secondary injector. Leave that vacuum line, and hook the side nipple up to the upper intake manifold like stock. Again, this is to help with atomization.
PCV SYSTEM - now we're getting complicated . This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System, which is there because the oiling system generates pressure which needs to be bled off - it can't be a sealed system. Stock, the system is fed back into the intake, and some residual oil is pulled into the intake, dirtying intercoolers and throttle bodies . On the TurboII, the nipples to be concerned with are just below the oil fill cap, and where the oil fill neck meets the block. The NA's only have the one where the fill neck meets the block (I think). This HAS to be vented - if you cap it up, you will pressurize the crankcase, which can lead to smoking and all kinds of weird problems. Venting it to atmosphere is the easiest solution, but will over time make a mess, as excess oil comes out of the nipple. The right way is to use a catch can that has a filter on it to catch the excess blow-by. Jaz makes a tiny catchcan that works great - Jeg's carries it.
FUEL LINES - you will be running the fuel lines along a longer run. Run a line from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail, and run a line from the secondary fuel rail to the metal nipple that heads back to the tank. Use ONLY fuel injection rated hose, 5/16" ID, and you need about 6 feet worth to do the job. Zip tie the hoses together and keep it tidy - you don't want them rubbing against things or the like.
SOLENOID PLUGS - when you remove all the solenoids, you will have a number of spare plugs. The ECU doesn't care at all - you won't get a code or anything. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere.
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID - this is only on '89-91 Turbos. If you're at the point where you're removing the solenoid rack, your car is modified, and you need to ditch this anyhow - it will give you some serious overboosting problems. Remove it, and cap the hole on the turbo inlet duct and the nipple on the metal hard line that feeds the wastegate actuator.
This is the tricky part of the equation. It's not super hard, but it will require some creativity and understanding to do. Again, the only reason to do this is to clean up the engine bay and get something else that doesn't need to be there outta there.
On top of the engine is the metal vacuum spider - a maze of metal vacuum lines. The majority of these are emissions-related. You have to remove the upper intake manifold to have access. Mind, I'll try to note the differences, but there's quite a few differences from '86-88 and '89-91, as well as NA and Turbo.
Easiest way to describe this is what you'll need when it's all done.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR - this is on the end of the primary fuel rail. There is a nipple on the lower intake manifold pointing towards the firewall that is its vacuum source. When in doubt, check the vacuum diagram in the shop manual - stock, the source nipple connects to the vacuum spider, goes to the orange solenoid, then back to the FPR. The only thing the solenoid does is switch the FPR's vacuum reference from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. There is NO DIFFERENCE in driveability or starting with the solenoid not there.
OIL METERING INJECTORS - each of the 4 injectors has a vacuum line that connects to a round gang block, and from there it connects with a larger vacuum hose to the upper intake manifold.
PRIMARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - there is a vacuum nipple in the middle of the bottom of the intake manfold, near where the primary injectors are. This vacuum hose goes to the upper intake manifold. This line actually pulls vacuum from *before* the throttle plates, and uses this differential pressure to help atomize fuel at certain conditions. This is a Good Thing. Just run the hose like stock, and make sure it goes to the same vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold as stock.
SECONDARY INJECTOR BLEED SOCKET - this is only on the '89-91 cars. There is a vacuum line going between the two secondary injector's bleed sockets, and another one sticking out to the side of the #2 secondary injector. Leave that vacuum line, and hook the side nipple up to the upper intake manifold like stock. Again, this is to help with atomization.
PCV SYSTEM - now we're getting complicated . This is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System, which is there because the oiling system generates pressure which needs to be bled off - it can't be a sealed system. Stock, the system is fed back into the intake, and some residual oil is pulled into the intake, dirtying intercoolers and throttle bodies . On the TurboII, the nipples to be concerned with are just below the oil fill cap, and where the oil fill neck meets the block. The NA's only have the one where the fill neck meets the block (I think). This HAS to be vented - if you cap it up, you will pressurize the crankcase, which can lead to smoking and all kinds of weird problems. Venting it to atmosphere is the easiest solution, but will over time make a mess, as excess oil comes out of the nipple. The right way is to use a catch can that has a filter on it to catch the excess blow-by. Jaz makes a tiny catchcan that works great - Jeg's carries it.
FUEL LINES - you will be running the fuel lines along a longer run. Run a line from the fuel filter to the primary fuel rail, and run a line from the secondary fuel rail to the metal nipple that heads back to the tank. Use ONLY fuel injection rated hose, 5/16" ID, and you need about 6 feet worth to do the job. Zip tie the hoses together and keep it tidy - you don't want them rubbing against things or the like.
SOLENOID PLUGS - when you remove all the solenoids, you will have a number of spare plugs. The ECU doesn't care at all - you won't get a code or anything. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere.
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID - this is only on '89-91 Turbos. If you're at the point where you're removing the solenoid rack, your car is modified, and you need to ditch this anyhow - it will give you some serious overboosting problems. Remove it, and cap the hole on the turbo inlet duct and the nipple on the metal hard line that feeds the wastegate actuator.
06-09-12, 10:53 AM
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what is this? it looks like it hooks up to a vac line of some kind.... its unbolted from somthing.. and it has a mitsubishi logo on the reverse side???
06-09-12, 01:44 PM
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hmm apparantly no body looks at the "new guy posts"
cmon 20!....
ok i found a plaque on my firewall that shows Model: FB331
does this mean i have a special rx-7? lol
cmon 20!....
ok i found a plaque on my firewall that shows Model: FB331
does this mean i have a special rx-7? lol
06-09-12, 01:52 PM
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ok so none of my lights work... i replaced my driver side tail light assembly and found out that none of the lights turn on. signals dont work. brakes dont work, headlights dont work.. and hazzards dont work...
fuses are good, my next step is to take a test light to the fuse panel... i found the wire diagram in my FSM, so im gonna try tracing that out soon unless someone has a no brainer idea.... i doubt it bc nobody is gonna check the "new guy forum"
fuses are good, my next step is to take a test light to the fuse panel... i found the wire diagram in my FSM, so im gonna try tracing that out soon unless someone has a no brainer idea.... i doubt it bc nobody is gonna check the "new guy forum"
06-09-12, 03:06 PM
#14
Hey, I read Em. I'm a new guy. I just got mine started with carb cleaner and lots of it. Do you have a helper? Can you see any gas from accelerator pump when throttle actuated? If you can get it running on choke cleaner with somebody blipping the gas do you see any fuel misting from the jets? It took a couple and of juice for me but I'm running now. Wish I had more to offer.
06-09-12, 05:46 PM
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i have still not been able to get the carb working... pumping the gas still does not yield any mist into to the intake.
however i did get my tail lights, brake lights, running lights, and interior lights working.... however still dont have headlights, flashers, or turn signals. got the accessory working\, so the radio and the dash lights all come on.
however i did get my tail lights, brake lights, running lights, and interior lights working.... however still dont have headlights, flashers, or turn signals. got the accessory working\, so the radio and the dash lights all come on.
06-09-12, 06:05 PM
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for further posts please use
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...7#post11118777
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...7#post11118777
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