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New to rotary, car won't stay on. HELP

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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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NY New to rotary, car won't stay on. HELP

I got my first "78" Rx7 a few months ago and am having tons of problems with it. Currently it starts, but when I release the key it's like I turned it off. If I turn the key part way it stays on. I pulled off the ignition switch and cleaned the contacts and still nothing. HELP
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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There's a real old thread I did on this...essentially what's happened is that the small plastic tabs that hold the cap onto the barrel of the ignition switch assembly have broken off or cracked and can't hold the cap on tightly enough when you physically turn the key and then the big electrical load hits all those contacts back there. I had a solution with pictures but I'll have to dig up the thread.

Is this the same car as the other "78"...?

Mario III
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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Found it....it's been a lonnnggg while.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/suggestions-re-starter-short-106219/

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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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Get a new used one and save the headaches
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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It's chassis # is under 2k
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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Don't think of the cars as collectibles because they aren't....we've still got a decade to wait for that and it may not happen at all.


Originally Posted by lynchX
Get a new used one and save the headaches
Some people don't have that kind of scratch. The car that got that fix, back in April of 2003, is still running fine and has never had the starting problem since. Why the heck would I waste my money on new when that fix works?

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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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you should have mechanic look at ign switch
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 01:30 AM
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The ignition switch is A OK, I had it checked. I just got a NOS ignition and it still shuts off at the on position. I'm driving it now but had to take the spring out of the switch and rough up the inside of the housing to keep the key from turning while I drive it. I'm going to a wiring expert on Thursday.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 03:29 PM
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If removing the spring fixed the problem temporarily, then I would suggest that the switch is not ok.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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I would like to suggest that dykins has made a very good point. The switch is not ok. This whole thread reminds me of all the threads in the regular tech board where people are complaining that they see a drop in power at high RPM's and "everything" is ok, so what's up? Many of the threads tell the OP to check his exhaust system for a blocked cat or thermal reactor but the OP swears it's "ok" and they've "already checked it" or "replaced it" so it "can't possibly" be the problem.

Months pass, the membership suggests a million other things while the core keeps saying exhaust restriction until the OP finally decides to upgrade the exhaust and guess what the exhaust shop finds?

A blocked cat.

It's now time for a good shot of the back of your "good" ignition switch.



Last edited by mar3; Feb 22, 2012 at 09:34 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 10:18 AM
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Tried the ignition switch of my buddies 80, it cuts out at the on position still. Going to an expert today. I'll let you all know what the problem is once he finds it.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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From: shakopee MN.
I had this problem in my 82 gsl. I found it was the ignition switch. The intern brass contacts of the switch are what goes bad. I just ordered a new one for 40 bucks from rock auto and it was fixed. good luck!
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