Ca11_Me_G

Ok so I'm not sure if this is where I need to be posting but I'm fresh to the rotary scene and I have a couple questions. I have an s4 87 n/a completely stock and it has 118,000 miles.

1. I can drive the car for awhile no problems. After a while when I get to around 5k it's cuts up and will not go any higher. What's the problem or where do I start?

2. What would be a basic tune up for a rotary other than coils wires oil etc. Is there anything else I need to do?

3. Any bolt ons for the n/a?

4. Should I use premix?

5. Any tips for a new rotary owner...been a fan for years finally found a good deal.

Thanks in advance.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Not being familiar with the S4 I'll bump this thread and let others address the bogging/loss of power issue when warm. Although first thought would be coils.

And for the new owner who's also looking for performance tips I'd recommend...

Evil Aviator

I'm not sure, so I will let the mechanics comment on that one.

The coils rarely go bad, and the wires last a lot longer than you would think. You can probably get them tested for free at your local generic auto parts store. I would not replace them unless necessary.

This is what I would replace/install if I bought a used 87 NA RX-7. Keep in mind this is what I like, and others may not agree.
- New air filter (I prefer K&N)
- New battery with marine quick-disconnect ground cable (I prefer Interstate or Optima Red Top)
- Fumoto F-106 no-nipple oil drain valve from qwikvalve.com
- Update stereo surround and vents with 89-92 parts
- Aftermarket stereo and antenna relay
- Electrical re-grounded
- New pulsation damper
- Fuel injectors cleaned and "rebuilt", new upper-to-lower intake manifold gasket
- New fuel filter
- New engine oil with Mazda OEM filter (I prefer Castrol GTX oil)
- New differential fluid (I prefer Red Line 75W90)
- Synthetic transmission gear oil (I prefer Red Line MT90)
- New oil filter pedestal O-rings
- New radiator hoses
- New ethylene glycol (green not orange) coolant mixed with distilled water
- New Mazda thermostat
- New fan belts
- New wiper blades
- New NGK spark plugs
- New brake fluid (I prefer Castrol or ATE Type 200)
- Fuel - 87 Octane Top Tier Gasoline
- If needed, replace the shifter bushings and boots
- Plus, service anything else that looks bad or is listed in the Unique Driving Conditions scheduled maintenance in the 1988 Factory Service Manual.

What were you looking for in particular?

If racing, yes. If just driving on the street, then that is debatable. If you are paranoid, use both the OMP and premix.

My advice would be to go to the Deals Gap Rotary Rally since you probably live pretty close to the event, however it was this last weekend so you will need to wait until next year.

ForesightFC

iTrader: (1)

always safer to just use premix ! Also check oil levels every fill up.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Check and test the TPS.

Check and test the AFM.

In that order.

The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.

If your metering oil pump is working and the car is street driven, no.


2nd Gen RX-7 New Owner Information

cloud97

It's possible there is not enough fuel pressure. Check pump and filter.

86t2

+1 check tps and maf

Billcriss

Use Premix just for safe precautions. Taking the extra step never hurts.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I got a idea.
search 5/6th port activation.
It may be that your port actuators are not exactly doing the job..maybe stuck or ceased and that would give you a little lag up top.
As Aaron said if the OMP is in good shape then you should not need any Premix on a street car.
You however can get away with a comfort zone or .5 oz per gallon..
That works out to 8 ounces per tank on a S4.

Get some good brakes,tires and a suspension upgrade if you feel the car is lacking the ride...That should allow you to enjoy the car.
The noise of a new exhaust is a luxury at this point as you want to spend wisely.
Stuff adds up quick so be smart and remember you have to Eat FIRST..the car can sit in the garage and still be there.

Ca11_Me_G

How do I go about checking those? Also what should I use for the premix?
I will eat lol just very ready to have my rx7 like it is suposed to be. Thanks

Rogue86Photog

2-stroke mineral oil is apparently best suited for premix from the reading I did online. Though as far as I understand, the OMP draws oil from the same pan as the engine, so I don't see that using regular oil will make too much of a difference.

When my engine was built, the guy told me that people often over-complicate premixing by working out precise ratios etc. While that's not harmful, he simply recommended filling up a small squirtable juice bottle with engine oil, and simply giving a good squeeze into the fuel when filling up. Then if there's a lot of blue-smoke, to simply use less next time.

I've been trying this more simplified method and as far as I can tell the engine is running a fair bit smoother. That said it has just been rebuilt so there are a number of factors potentially contributing to this.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

"The guy" is right...and wrong. He's correct in suggesting a guesstimation is fine based on how much fuel you'll be getting. Use a ratio of .5 oz. per gallon WITH a working OMP and 1 oz. per gallon WITHOUT an OMP. He's absolutely wrong in suggesting you use engine oil for premix. For one, it's not designed to burn as cleanly. And why add oil that isn't since carbon build-up can be an issue with a rotary. And secondly 2 cycle oil is designed to mix and stay in suspension with your fuel. Crankcase oil is not. And I'm not sure of the effects over time on things like your fuel pump sock, pump, fuel filter and injectors.

Ca11_Me_G

How do I check if my OMP works?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

OMP = Oil Metering Pump. I think the factory service manual actually calls it the MOP or metering oil pump. It feeds two injectors...one near the top of each housing. They're hard to see on a stock or near stock car but if you don't see evidence of a leaking line and you're on the stock ECU and not in Limp mode (there are 3 separate CEL's associated with the MOP/OMP that would cause Limp) then assume it's working.

Rogue86Photog

Thanks for that. Just to clarify then, why does the OMP take crankcase oil if it's known to cause carbon build-up, wouldn't it be better designed to take it from a 2-stroke oil source?

Will switch to 2-stroke oil regardless, not worth the risk!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

my guess is back in the 80's Mazda didn't want to sway people away from Car sales and make them think it was a glorified Lawnmower.

Now Guys have developed a way to put 2 stroke into the OMP system (search Rotary Aviation OMP adapter).
The crude way is just add to the fuel..like your Lawnmower..then again it is also a cheap way too..heh..and most of us FC guys like to save money!

When I was premixing I used the little Chain saw bottles..3 or so ounces I believe.
When I fill 20 bucks (Canadian which is about 5 gallons), about a normal monetary number when you put gas in, I add premix too.

I wouldn't trust the Squirt and Hope for the best method.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Agreed. Imagine the look on the face of a prospective NEW RX7 buyer when the salesman explained about having to keep this little tank full of two cycle oil. And NOT to forget or the engine would be ruined. So rather than make it optimal they made it idiot proof .

Rogue86Photog

Thanks for clearing that up guys, signing up here has proven its worth already then!