New as new could be.
05-18-13, 11:51 PM
#1
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New as new could be.
Hello,
my names Jordan and i am completely new to rotary engines.
I currently drive a 93 civic ( first car, daily driver )
But Ive been looking for a build from the ground up project, and RX7 came to mind because it was my moms favorite car when she was my age, and i thought id fix one up and give it to her for her birthday.
so i don't want a race car. just something to work on, that looks good and hopefully wont break the bank.
so here's where the questions start :
what would a good estimate for how much this will cost? ( basically get a car to stock and run like gold )
how hard are parts to come by?
slightly new to the car scene, how difficult would a project like this be?
and if someone could give me a few links to reference, and teach me about rotary engines and rx7's in general that would be great.
thank you.
Truly yours , Jordan
my names Jordan and i am completely new to rotary engines.
I currently drive a 93 civic ( first car, daily driver )
But Ive been looking for a build from the ground up project, and RX7 came to mind because it was my moms favorite car when she was my age, and i thought id fix one up and give it to her for her birthday.
so i don't want a race car. just something to work on, that looks good and hopefully wont break the bank.
so here's where the questions start :
what would a good estimate for how much this will cost? ( basically get a car to stock and run like gold )
how hard are parts to come by?
slightly new to the car scene, how difficult would a project like this be?
and if someone could give me a few links to reference, and teach me about rotary engines and rx7's in general that would be great.
thank you.
Truly yours , Jordan
05-19-13, 12:08 AM
#2
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Ok ..let's run this down.
Sorry about you driving a Civic,I am sure that things will get better in your life and good fortune will come to you...eventually..(LOL!)
You are asking a very Vague question as only you can determine how much you want to put out for such an endeavor.
Used Cars vary in price,Better shaped cars cost more money that Pieces of Junk.
Parts prices vary.Used parts are cheaper and they can be found on here if you look hard enough and don't mind dealing with shipping costs.(unless they are local).
You can teach yourself about rotary engines by reading the Multitude of threads already posted on this very Forum.
Google supplies working video of rotary engines.
Only YOU are limiting yourself to how much you want to absorb in knowledge.
Be prepared Financially though.You can start off with a 500 dollar car that just "needs to be better" and end up Maxing Credit Cards out!
Set a Goal,and stick to it..no HIGH HP mods..just standard build,and it should keep you within a reasonable allowance of funds.
You gotta trust me on that.Once you start..Like those Freakin Potato Chips..Ya just can't STOP!
Sorry about you driving a Civic,I am sure that things will get better in your life and good fortune will come to you...eventually..(LOL!)
You are asking a very Vague question as only you can determine how much you want to put out for such an endeavor.
Used Cars vary in price,Better shaped cars cost more money that Pieces of Junk.
Parts prices vary.Used parts are cheaper and they can be found on here if you look hard enough and don't mind dealing with shipping costs.(unless they are local).
You can teach yourself about rotary engines by reading the Multitude of threads already posted on this very Forum.
Google supplies working video of rotary engines.
Only YOU are limiting yourself to how much you want to absorb in knowledge.
Be prepared Financially though.You can start off with a 500 dollar car that just "needs to be better" and end up Maxing Credit Cards out!
Set a Goal,and stick to it..no HIGH HP mods..just standard build,and it should keep you within a reasonable allowance of funds.
You gotta trust me on that.Once you start..Like those Freakin Potato Chips..Ya just can't STOP!
05-19-13, 12:16 AM
#3
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ahah, im okay with my civic. as a first car , its good on gas, and its not a cavvy, sunfire or neon 
.
i wanted to get into the honda scene, but i dont think its for me.
so here i am.
and sorry if i came off vague, didnt know where to start.
and alright that seems to make sense. for the next few days ill start readying up. shopping around ( few local ones ive seen so far, decent condition , gonna read up before i drop any money. )
when shopping for a car, what are some MAJOR issues i should watch out for?
. i wanted to get into the honda scene, but i dont think its for me.
so here i am.
and sorry if i came off vague, didnt know where to start.
and alright that seems to make sense. for the next few days ill start readying up. shopping around ( few local ones ive seen so far, decent condition , gonna read up before i drop any money. )
when shopping for a car, what are some MAJOR issues i should watch out for?
05-19-13, 12:50 AM
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The best feature of the car would be that it actually RUNS.
Seriously,if you are not familiar with the In's and Out's of the Engine,then it would be a little time before you get adjusted.
Rebuilds are 2k.So if you buy a non running car then you are replacing the engine.If you already spent say $1000 on a crapped out car, then things are starting to add up quick aren't they?
Look at the Canadian section and see if you can post up to find anyone local(Winterpeg) that perhaps could help you find a suitable car.
If you are not familiar with the car then you can be taken advantage of..That we do not want to see happen to you!..at all!
Seriously,if you are not familiar with the In's and Out's of the Engine,then it would be a little time before you get adjusted.
Rebuilds are 2k.So if you buy a non running car then you are replacing the engine.If you already spent say $1000 on a crapped out car, then things are starting to add up quick aren't they?
Look at the Canadian section and see if you can post up to find anyone local(Winterpeg) that perhaps could help you find a suitable car.
If you are not familiar with the car then you can be taken advantage of..That we do not want to see happen to you!..at all!
05-19-13, 09:32 AM
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I'm just going to hit the ground running with the assumption you don't know a MASSIVE amount about cars. No offense meant if that's not the case, but your opinion of an EG civic isn't very knowledgeable. (You're opinion of the "Honda-people" is spot on. :P )
Styx is absolutely right about the engine, and you can drop a LOT of money into a rebuild really fast, but there's more to it. Finances will be decided by how much you can do yourself, in reality, and you can drop that same $2k in a running/driving car pretty quickly, with very little in the way of upgrades. I'm about to.
So, yes, let's start with running and driving. Needs to do both. Things to look for when you visit/test drive the car:
Starting/Running
-is the engine cold when you get there? If your first starting impression is a warm start, it's a BAD sign, implying the seller's hiding idle issues, which are common. While idle and running issues aren't incredibly expensive to fix, they can be very difficult and very time-consuming.
-that said, does it idle smoothly, and in the prescribed range? When you initially start the car, revs should go at least past 2k, sit at 1500 while cold, then go down to 750, and feel steady and fairly vibration-free.
-it goes without saying, but if the car smokes in any color, walk away from it if you don't want to do a rebuild. There's usually no way out of rebuilding rotaries when they smoke, unlike piston engines.
-run the car all or most of the way through its RPM range- specifically, go past the 4k mark, both while driving and while at load. Throttle response should be crisp and drama-free throughout. Any stagger or hesitation on the throttle (coupled with a rough idle) brings us back to vacuum and adjustments, electronics/wiring and injectors could also be culprits.
-Again, goes without saying, but make sure nothing's pouring out on the driveway while the car's running.
Driving/Suspension/Brakes
-you don't know this car, so watch the dash gauges carefully. If they don't work, make sure the seller will not hold you accountable if the car dies mid-test drive. If they don't work and there are other problems (i.e. low oil pressure and a large oil leak) seriously consider walking away.
-if the car feels "sloppier" than your civic, it may be acceptable (depending on your vehicle and price point.) If you are afraid to drive the car home, DON'T.
-the car should feel like it's driving in a straight line following the front wheels. (It's hard to describe dog tracking if you've never done it.) The steering wheel should be consistent in it's output (meaning x steering turn ALWAYS equals x wheel turn) and the amount you can turn the wheel before the tires respond should be nonexistent or minimal.
-if you feel like you're driving a cadillac (bounce bounce bounce) it's probably shocks, and shocks are easy fixes. But bear in mind it will make controlling the car difficult.
-how does the brake pedal feel? Stiff as a rock? Low? Like you're stepping in a bowl of dried out mashed potatoes? If you feel like the brakes have difficulty responding to what you want, they will need work.
Drivetrain
-how does the clutch pedal feel? (refer to the brake pedal above)
-does the car have difficulty shifting or staying in gear? Do you hear gears grinding?
-are there noticeable bumping or grinding sounds from the rear end?
Post-Drive Inspection
-turn off the car, pop the hood, and listen for any whistling, popping, clicking sounds
-check under the car for leaks. Use a flashlight. Color and location will give you a good idea what's what. Look for bumpy-shiny/white or dark clumpy textures for seepage (small leaks.) Make sure you check the transmission and differential as well.
-check under the hood- specifically, fluid levels and colors (don't open the radiator cap, check the overflow tank.) Check the hoses and belts- cracks, rips, bulges (the first two are self-explanatory, the latter looks like someone tried to shove a tennis ball in the end of the hose.)
-physically look at the brakes, check the lines for leaks/seepage, and the rotors for spots or a blue color.
-look at the tires both up close and far away- make sure there are no cracks, and the tread isn't down to bare metal. Make sure when the car is parked they all look relatively straight up-down and side-to-side with the car.
When in doubt, take the car to a mechanic and have him inspect it.
I'm sure I missed a few things.
Styx is absolutely right about the engine, and you can drop a LOT of money into a rebuild really fast, but there's more to it. Finances will be decided by how much you can do yourself, in reality, and you can drop that same $2k in a running/driving car pretty quickly, with very little in the way of upgrades. I'm about to.
So, yes, let's start with running and driving. Needs to do both. Things to look for when you visit/test drive the car:
Starting/Running
-is the engine cold when you get there? If your first starting impression is a warm start, it's a BAD sign, implying the seller's hiding idle issues, which are common. While idle and running issues aren't incredibly expensive to fix, they can be very difficult and very time-consuming.
-that said, does it idle smoothly, and in the prescribed range? When you initially start the car, revs should go at least past 2k, sit at 1500 while cold, then go down to 750, and feel steady and fairly vibration-free.
-it goes without saying, but if the car smokes in any color, walk away from it if you don't want to do a rebuild. There's usually no way out of rebuilding rotaries when they smoke, unlike piston engines.
-run the car all or most of the way through its RPM range- specifically, go past the 4k mark, both while driving and while at load. Throttle response should be crisp and drama-free throughout. Any stagger or hesitation on the throttle (coupled with a rough idle) brings us back to vacuum and adjustments, electronics/wiring and injectors could also be culprits.
-Again, goes without saying, but make sure nothing's pouring out on the driveway while the car's running.
Driving/Suspension/Brakes
-you don't know this car, so watch the dash gauges carefully. If they don't work, make sure the seller will not hold you accountable if the car dies mid-test drive. If they don't work and there are other problems (i.e. low oil pressure and a large oil leak) seriously consider walking away.
-if the car feels "sloppier" than your civic, it may be acceptable (depending on your vehicle and price point.) If you are afraid to drive the car home, DON'T.
-the car should feel like it's driving in a straight line following the front wheels. (It's hard to describe dog tracking if you've never done it.) The steering wheel should be consistent in it's output (meaning x steering turn ALWAYS equals x wheel turn) and the amount you can turn the wheel before the tires respond should be nonexistent or minimal.
-if you feel like you're driving a cadillac (bounce bounce bounce) it's probably shocks, and shocks are easy fixes. But bear in mind it will make controlling the car difficult.
-how does the brake pedal feel? Stiff as a rock? Low? Like you're stepping in a bowl of dried out mashed potatoes? If you feel like the brakes have difficulty responding to what you want, they will need work.
Drivetrain
-how does the clutch pedal feel? (refer to the brake pedal above)
-does the car have difficulty shifting or staying in gear? Do you hear gears grinding?
-are there noticeable bumping or grinding sounds from the rear end?
Post-Drive Inspection
-turn off the car, pop the hood, and listen for any whistling, popping, clicking sounds
-check under the car for leaks. Use a flashlight. Color and location will give you a good idea what's what. Look for bumpy-shiny/white or dark clumpy textures for seepage (small leaks.) Make sure you check the transmission and differential as well.
-check under the hood- specifically, fluid levels and colors (don't open the radiator cap, check the overflow tank.) Check the hoses and belts- cracks, rips, bulges (the first two are self-explanatory, the latter looks like someone tried to shove a tennis ball in the end of the hose.)
-physically look at the brakes, check the lines for leaks/seepage, and the rotors for spots or a blue color.
-look at the tires both up close and far away- make sure there are no cracks, and the tread isn't down to bare metal. Make sure when the car is parked they all look relatively straight up-down and side-to-side with the car.
When in doubt, take the car to a mechanic and have him inspect it.
I'm sure I missed a few things.
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05-19-13, 03:50 PM
#10
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If your intent is to buy a cheap RX-7 and get it restored back into original shape, then you are looking at about $20,000 to $30,000 USD in parts and labor, depending on which model year and the condition of the car that you buy. The cost would be much less if you were a qualified mechanic with access to a good auto shop and paint & body shop, but since this is not the case you will need to pay for most of the work.
It may be a better idea to buy an RX-7 in excellent shape, which will typically cost between $6,000 and $15,000 USD.
Regardless, you will need to first determine which of the three RX-7s your mom likes, as you did not state this in your post. This will help determine how much work you are looking at, and how easy it will be to get parts.
SA/FB
FC
FD
It may be a better idea to buy an RX-7 in excellent shape, which will typically cost between $6,000 and $15,000 USD.
Regardless, you will need to first determine which of the three RX-7s your mom likes, as you did not state this in your post. This will help determine how much work you are looking at, and how easy it will be to get parts.
SA/FB
FC
FD
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