New member with an 90 turbo 2
01-18-11, 01:18 AM
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New member with an 90 turbo 2
I'm wanting to build up my new 1990 turbo 2 and I just want to know what are some good mods I should get to start my build.
01-18-11, 09:00 AM
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Start with a full tuneup and fix all the little problems with the car.
Then, head over to the 2nd gen FAQ and give it a read.
How much power are you looking for and what is the intended use of the car?
Note that anything you do to increase airflow through the engine (exhaust, for example) will raise boost and require supporting fuel mods.
Then, head over to the 2nd gen FAQ and give it a read.
How much power are you looking for and what is the intended use of the car?
Note that anything you do to increase airflow through the engine (exhaust, for example) will raise boost and require supporting fuel mods.
01-19-11, 10:14 PM
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ok well right now basically all my car has is a down pipe, I just ordered all new vacuum hoses for it incase of any leaks or anything, I am going to be using this car for drifting but still want it to be street legal. I just want to know what are some good mods that i should get right away that really help increase power.
01-20-11, 08:57 AM
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Of course, drifting. I could have guessed. It seems fully 90% of those who sign up are looking for "drifting".
As I'm over 30 years old, I have no idea what this "drifting" entails so you'll have to wait until someone else is around who can answer your suspension questions relating to "drifting".
Did you read the FAQ as I asked?
Quick mods for power would be a free flowing intake, complete exhaust, an FCD, then an engine rebuild after it has blown up for lack of fuel.
Proper mods for power would be to completely fix all the issues with the car. Then upgrade the ECU to either a fulls standalone or a programmable ECU like the RTek, then increase airflow through the engine with things like an open exhaust. Injectors will need to be upgraded accordingly. On the stock turbo, which really has a practical boost limit of 12-14 PSI, 550/720CC with an FD fuel pump is a good combination and one which the inexpensive RTek can recognize.
As I'm over 30 years old, I have no idea what this "drifting" entails so you'll have to wait until someone else is around who can answer your suspension questions relating to "drifting".
Did you read the FAQ as I asked?
Quick mods for power would be a free flowing intake, complete exhaust, an FCD, then an engine rebuild after it has blown up for lack of fuel.
Proper mods for power would be to completely fix all the issues with the car. Then upgrade the ECU to either a fulls standalone or a programmable ECU like the RTek, then increase airflow through the engine with things like an open exhaust. Injectors will need to be upgraded accordingly. On the stock turbo, which really has a practical boost limit of 12-14 PSI, 550/720CC with an FD fuel pump is a good combination and one which the inexpensive RTek can recognize.
01-24-11, 08:26 PM
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ok everyone i need help with idle problem on my 90 rx7 turbo. Its idling up and down while in neutral and it idles up and down when im in low gears as well. I have replaced some of my vacuum lines, i tried adjusting my tps but nothing seems to work. please any feed back would be much appreciated
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01-27-11, 05:21 PM
#8
whats a piston
first thing i would do is get a windband. just a dp might make the car run lean then you need a new engine. i learned the hard way my first turbo ii had a exhaust fcd and a k&n 1000 miles later it had a dead rotor.
01-28-11, 02:08 AM
#9
A downpipe alone isn't going to blow the motor. Stock boost of around 8 on the s5 turbo can be increased to around 10psi on the stock fuel system. Problem is that the stock fuel system probably isn't running at stock levels after 20 years. Get the injectors service, check the voltage at the fuel pump. The stock wiring to the fuel pump develops more resistance over time and results in a fuel pump getting lower than intended voltage. That means it's flowing less. You may need to rewire the fuel pump (common) or get a higher flowing fuel pump (common), or better yet both. The FD pump drops right in, but doesn't flow a large amount more than the T2 pump. A walbro 255lph will drop right in and give you all the fuel pumping action you need.
As far as drifting is concerned. You NEEEEED to up your cooling system. Rotaries run hot. Turbo rotaries run really hot. Turbo rotaries in race/drifting scenerios with stock cooling systems bake motors.
As far as drifting is concerned. You NEEEEED to up your cooling system. Rotaries run hot. Turbo rotaries run really hot. Turbo rotaries in race/drifting scenerios with stock cooling systems bake motors.
01-29-11, 10:24 AM
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ok everyone i need help with idle problem on my 90 rx7 turbo. Its idling up and down while in neutral and it idles up and down when im in low gears as well. I have replaced some of my vacuum lines, i tried adjusting my tps but nothing seems to work. please any feed back would be much appreciated
01-31-11, 11:28 AM
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A downpipe alone isn't going to blow the motor. Stock boost of around 8 on the s5 turbo can be increased to around 10psi on the stock fuel system. Problem is that the stock fuel system probably isn't running at stock levels after 20 years. Get the injectors service, check the voltage at the fuel pump. The stock wiring to the fuel pump develops more resistance over time and results in a fuel pump getting lower than intended voltage. That means it's flowing less. You may need to rewire the fuel pump (common) or get a higher flowing fuel pump (common), or better yet both. The FD pump drops right in, but doesn't flow a large amount more than the T2 pump. A walbro 255lph will drop right in and give you all the fuel pumping action you need.
As far as drifting is concerned. You NEEEEED to up your cooling system. Rotaries run hot. Turbo rotaries run really hot. Turbo rotaries in race/drifting scenerios with stock cooling systems bake motors.
As far as drifting is concerned. You NEEEEED to up your cooling system. Rotaries run hot. Turbo rotaries run really hot. Turbo rotaries in race/drifting scenerios with stock cooling systems bake motors.
01-31-11, 01:41 PM
#12
Hey man, listen to Aaron. Check around the 2nd gen section. I was in the same boat as you two years ago. Everything I've learned I learned it from there and the search function. The stuff you're asking is the most trivial/commonly asked (not to sound harsh but it's true) so a simple search yields better results than making a new thread and waiting for responses. But this section is for newcomers and you have a new car so it's totally legit.
A really good guideline would be this (http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm)
Below is what I'd do if just looking to fix the "problems" with the car and wanted to keep it close to stock.
1. Def. do a 60k tune!! I can't stress this enough, I never as I was just driving my car for a month or two before it was going to storage and was going to do everything when I took it back out. I never and ended up with a stuck side seal and later a blown apex seal...
Protip - check your compression as well, this will tell you the approx condition of your internals.
120 psi - new
110 psi - excellent
100 psi - still great
90 psi - good'ish
80 psi - will need rebuild soon more than likely
anything below - rebuild/take it easy before you break ****
2. If you want to make a bit more power get a QUALITY intake, bought my car with an HKS filter/intake which just sucks in hot air from the engine bay, this definitely was part of my problem.
3. If you're going to be increasing flow through your engine (like Aaron said) you will see boost spikes if you don't have anything to control it. Stock setting for boost on S5's is actually 7.5 psi and fuel cut is an 8.5 psi (if the car goes any higher than 8.5 you feel like you hit a wall almost and your car will stop accelerating). Even a downpipe will give you boost problems. To get passed the fuel cut you will need what Aaron referred to as an FCD (fuel cut defencer which tricks ECU to not seeing the signal to fuel cut, one of these or a new ecu will take care of fuel cut).
To fix boost creep/improve boost control port your wastegate on your turbo if you have a chance to take it out. Or you can buy/build a simple manual boost controller.
4. If you're going to go with higher than stock boost levels, you will need to upgrade your fuel system. Like 13bpower said, check/get your injectors cleaned for sure (they can also cause hot start problems when leaky). Cheapest way to get a bit more fuel is the rewire mentioned above (the circuit is set up so the pump has two different levels of voltage it sees in different states with a relay or something of the sort by re-wiring it you bypass the original setup so that the pump just sees full voltage always, search for more detailed info, LOTS of material on this). If you're aiming for a bit more power you can do the rewire and pick up an FD pump (this pump doesn't support much more power than stock, you're probably better off going with a walbro 255 pump if you plan on upgrading more in the future).
5. Guages: you need! Wideband O2 sensor/controller (replaces stock narrowband oxygen sensor and the controller is just the guage, on a turbo car the sweetspot for AFR's is somewhere in the 11's for most cars).
Boost Guage, the stock guage is ****, too small of a range once you start upgrading and inaccurate/malfunctions (mine randomly see's full boost when I turn the car on and go for a drive/go back to normal mid drive/full boost mid drive).
6. Exhaust
Easily the best bang for your buck power adder (without opening the keg), make sure you have done the stuff above before you get a full exhaust. Bought my car with a Racing Beat full exhaust, easily contributed to my problem as well. Racing beat claims their system adds some ridiculous number like 60hp, but that's a bit stretched (probably at the "crank")
7. Drifting
The car is pretty good stock, although a decent set of coil overs will be a great help but daily driving/street driving will suffer a bit. I haven't started modding my car for drifting as I think it's good enough stock for what I'll be doing.
It might take you a while to get used to the car if you've drifted other cars before because apparently the 50/50 weight distribution makes the car transition/want to transition faster
8. When you open the keg
Streetport's typically yield 5%-10% horsepower varying on port design and some other factors, nice boost in power as well as nice sound
9. Lots of power
Big single turbo
New intercooler (the top mount sucks, even if you just get a hybrid turbo it's recommended you upgrade this)
Supporting fuel mods
Standalone EMS
Some good places for you to check out;
http://fc3spro.com/main.html
http://www.teamfc3s.org/
2nd Gen section
Search Funtion
A really good guideline would be this (http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm)
Below is what I'd do if just looking to fix the "problems" with the car and wanted to keep it close to stock.
1. Def. do a 60k tune!! I can't stress this enough, I never as I was just driving my car for a month or two before it was going to storage and was going to do everything when I took it back out. I never and ended up with a stuck side seal and later a blown apex seal...
Protip - check your compression as well, this will tell you the approx condition of your internals.
120 psi - new
110 psi - excellent
100 psi - still great
90 psi - good'ish
80 psi - will need rebuild soon more than likely
anything below - rebuild/take it easy before you break ****
2. If you want to make a bit more power get a QUALITY intake, bought my car with an HKS filter/intake which just sucks in hot air from the engine bay, this definitely was part of my problem.
3. If you're going to be increasing flow through your engine (like Aaron said) you will see boost spikes if you don't have anything to control it. Stock setting for boost on S5's is actually 7.5 psi and fuel cut is an 8.5 psi (if the car goes any higher than 8.5 you feel like you hit a wall almost and your car will stop accelerating). Even a downpipe will give you boost problems. To get passed the fuel cut you will need what Aaron referred to as an FCD (fuel cut defencer which tricks ECU to not seeing the signal to fuel cut, one of these or a new ecu will take care of fuel cut).
To fix boost creep/improve boost control port your wastegate on your turbo if you have a chance to take it out. Or you can buy/build a simple manual boost controller.
4. If you're going to go with higher than stock boost levels, you will need to upgrade your fuel system. Like 13bpower said, check/get your injectors cleaned for sure (they can also cause hot start problems when leaky). Cheapest way to get a bit more fuel is the rewire mentioned above (the circuit is set up so the pump has two different levels of voltage it sees in different states with a relay or something of the sort by re-wiring it you bypass the original setup so that the pump just sees full voltage always, search for more detailed info, LOTS of material on this). If you're aiming for a bit more power you can do the rewire and pick up an FD pump (this pump doesn't support much more power than stock, you're probably better off going with a walbro 255 pump if you plan on upgrading more in the future).
5. Guages: you need! Wideband O2 sensor/controller (replaces stock narrowband oxygen sensor and the controller is just the guage, on a turbo car the sweetspot for AFR's is somewhere in the 11's for most cars).
Boost Guage, the stock guage is ****, too small of a range once you start upgrading and inaccurate/malfunctions (mine randomly see's full boost when I turn the car on and go for a drive/go back to normal mid drive/full boost mid drive).
6. Exhaust
Easily the best bang for your buck power adder (without opening the keg), make sure you have done the stuff above before you get a full exhaust. Bought my car with a Racing Beat full exhaust, easily contributed to my problem as well. Racing beat claims their system adds some ridiculous number like 60hp, but that's a bit stretched (probably at the "crank")
7. Drifting
The car is pretty good stock, although a decent set of coil overs will be a great help but daily driving/street driving will suffer a bit. I haven't started modding my car for drifting as I think it's good enough stock for what I'll be doing.
It might take you a while to get used to the car if you've drifted other cars before because apparently the 50/50 weight distribution makes the car transition/want to transition faster
8. When you open the keg
Streetport's typically yield 5%-10% horsepower varying on port design and some other factors, nice boost in power as well as nice sound
9. Lots of power
Big single turbo
New intercooler (the top mount sucks, even if you just get a hybrid turbo it's recommended you upgrade this)
Supporting fuel mods
Standalone EMS
Some good places for you to check out;
http://fc3spro.com/main.html
http://www.teamfc3s.org/
2nd Gen section
Search Funtion
02-02-11, 01:51 AM
#14
FCD's are all the same in result. They either work or they don't. It tricks the ECU or it doesn't. It's just a little black box (most the time) that plugs into the harness at the pressure sensor. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for one. Some have made their own for less than $10 in parts. Look in the FS section here for a used one.
To port your wastegate you need a bit or set of bits that can grind away metal and a drill to spin those bits. the s5 stock flapper door is smaller than the s4 if I remember correctly so you are limited on how big you can inlarge the wastegate hole on the s5. Some weld on a larger flapper door. The basic idea is to make the hole as large as the flapper door by grinding metal away.
To port your wastegate you need a bit or set of bits that can grind away metal and a drill to spin those bits. the s5 stock flapper door is smaller than the s4 if I remember correctly so you are limited on how big you can inlarge the wastegate hole on the s5. Some weld on a larger flapper door. The basic idea is to make the hole as large as the flapper door by grinding metal away.
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