I recently acquired a 93 RX7 that came with a few modifications already done. I can't get in contact with the original owner because it was traded in to a dealership in town locally, so I thought my next best bet would be to ask you guys. It has what appears to be a PFS SMIC and exhaust. What I don't know is whether a new downpipe was also installed, and what other sustainability mods should I do? I plan on having fluids done (oil,tran,diff,brakes) and getting new vacuum and coolant lines replaced. I have read the forums for new users and I am in agreement that the first mods to be done are those that will allow the engine to continue running with fewer problems for a longer period of time. This isn't my first modded import, but this is my first Rotary, and I have a healthy respect for the temperamental nature of the 13B. I have attached an image that isn't my engine bay, but mine looks exactly like this set-up (with a few variation to the AST can). All responses are welcome.

 

That is the PFS Medium with the PFS duct and PFS intake. It's a quality set-up that fits and performs well, though the intake can be improved to source ambient air from the nose rather than scavenge everything from the duct. I happen to run that same setup on my car.
In completely stock form the car had a precat/downpipe. Can't imagine your car still having that but it would be visually apparent. If your downpipe has no cat-like bulge its aftermarket already. If it's not heat coated I'd at least wrap it to reduce underhood heat.
Post a picture of your engine bay and we might be able to tell you more of what's been done.

 

Thank you so much. I was freaking out not being able to tell what is on the car. It was definitely trwated with care and garaged. The interior is in exceptional condition and I will be uploading pics when I get home from work. Thanks again.

 

A quick lesson re: your downpipe question....
On the right is the factory pre-cat equipped DP. Pretty easy to distinguish it from the aftermarket (in this case, stainless) version on the left. Note the mounting bracket on the downstream end of the factory precat/dp. It secures that end to the side of the transmission for support. Now note the absence of a mounting 'ear' on the aftermarket version in this picture. Not all aftermarket DP's have a mounting ear for that bracket so it can be secured. When they don't have it, IMO it suggests it's not a very good quality DP.


A picture of a Bonez DP WITH the mounting ear. It's an example of a good quality DP with thick flanges, good welds and quality metal...and the flange. Hopefully yours looks like this.

 

Is the DP something I can see from top down view of engine bay, or do I need to jack up the car and look from underneath? I will take a look when I get home tonight.

 

It can be seen from either, but is more readily visible from underneath. As for mods, kudos for doing your homework in advance and learning that cooling and information is your friend. Going Simplified Sequential is a wise choice, along with relocating the turbo control solenoids to a spot that they will better endure the brutal heat. Mine for the 20B FC (with the twins too) are on the inner fender and I made my own vacuum line guides to keep the lines tidy.

 

Yep. I'm a preacher for establishing cooling before anything else. But to simplify you will need a standalone ECU and a block-off plate set...if you don't already have those.

 

I did look for a standalone ECU ( I had a hondata on my S2000 so I generally know what they look like) but I could not find one. In most of the pics I have scene online, it seems the generic place to position a standalone ECU is by the firewall on the driver's side, I saw what seemed to be (low lighting) the stock control unit (it was about a couple inches wide and long).

What is a block-off plate set?

 

Here are some exterior shots of my car. Does anyone know which front bumper this is?

 

Hard to tell, but is the connection between the PFS IC duct and intake cut or is it capped? It needs to be capped (if the intake has another fresh air source)

Also, what's the box in the cruz control space?

 

Most widely used standalone is the Apex'i PFC. It mounts in the same spot as the stock ECU. On a LHD that's behind the passenger kick panel. It will be clearly stamped.
Block off plates are used to seal or "block off " the openings left by thing like EGR, split air bypass, double-throttle etc. when they're removed. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/F...ff_plates.html

 

Also, re: your front bumper cover...not sure about the manufacturer. I thought it might be an old Racing Beat but not sure. In any case, make sure the belly pan/undertray is sealing the air from escaping from the nose downward, instead of being forced through the radiator. That was an issue on a lot of those.

 

Bumper looks like knights sports.

 

Some engine bay pics. Any analysis of what the previous owner has done would be greatly appreciated. I was worried about vacuum lines, and I haven't checked the rats nest, but I did check a couple of the ones that I could feel around the manifold and where I could squeeze my fingers, and they didnt feel brittle, or weak. They were a little hard, but looked almost like new condition (color and lettering on the hoses weren't faded or discolored).

 

Obviously the general appearance of the engine bay is clean. I don't see any obvious sloppy work and it looks pretty well sorted. It's the PFS medium SMIC, intake box and duct. All look to be in pretty good shape too. The PO installed the yellow-top battery and apparently it wouldn't fit inside the stock battery surround, tie-down and cover. You're also missing the cover on the battery fuse block....I'd want to get that covered. Those do NOT appear to be stock rubber vacuum lines. Can't tell for sure, but they look like black silicone hose. If so that's great. You do have stock check valves. Since you're still sporting the throttlebody coolant line, AWS, airpump and split-air bypass lines we can probably assume you still have all emissions and do NOT have an aftermarket ECU.
While there are better choices for small things like those check-valves, honestly they don't look all that old and were probably changed with the hose. If it's running well I'd do the obvious stuff... change all the fluids, a new set of plugs (be sure to use a bit of anti-seize on the threads), maybe pull the IC to clean it and re-charge the K & N filter in the intake box, and just enjoy. At least from the engine bay, it looks like you got a nice, well cared for car. The only caveat to that is to get an aftermarket temp gauge installed ASAP if you don't already have one. Don't rely on the stock gauge.

A side-note...Pretty sure the missing cap/cover for your wiper arm bolt are the same as any 90's era MAZDA car....including FORD PROBES. So are odd-ball things like cowl screw covers, hood red retainer clips. If you have a U-PULL-IT type lot around you should be able to find one.

 

Thank's Sgtblue. Appreciate the rundown. I tried to take off the intake box today to see how dirty/clean the filter(s) were. But it wasn't as easy as I had hoped and I will have to do some research as to how to remove them. I am not the most tech/mechanic savvy and the only saving grace for this build project is that its not my daily driver. Honestly, I am scared like a 18 year old about to go to prison for the first time, when it comes to doing any work on this car. Mainly because of the ppl (youtube, colleagues that track cars, internet searching, and even local tuning shops) have all said that this car is temperamental and not as forgiving like my previous cars.

 

Well judging by the engine bay it looks like a good car. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual from the 3rd Gen. FAQ at the top of this section. When you see something under the hood you can't ID, just look it up in the FSM. You'll be surprised on how 'savy' you'll become in a relatively short time.
As I've said elsewhere....everything with this car begins with cooling. I see the metal AST which is good. Check to see if you have an all-aluminum radiator. When you change coolant, use as much distilled water to coolant as you can get away with where you live...but not less than say 20% for corrosion and lubrication. As you feel more comfortable with the car there are other things to help keep the car cool as well.

The IC has to come out first before the intake box. But it's a piece of cake. Just two 10mm bolts securing the duct to the front of the IC, loosen the T-bolt clamps on the couplers and slide them back over the IC pipes and it should lift right out. Then the intake box will similarly lift out once the hoses are disconnected.

 

What really makes me stare at that engine setup is the ZEX purple box. Are you using it? Usually if you have a ZEX purple box, the car is or was pushing nitrous. You might have a fogger connected on your Greddy Elbow.

Also just from the pic, I can't tell if the turbo has been upgraded. Looking at your fuel rail and your FPR, it might be.

Maybe the previous owner used nitrous on the low rpms for the turbo lag. Once the turbo kicked in, the nitrous shuts off.

 

I'm missing it, where is the ZEX box? And that's the stock elbow, not a GReddy.

 

In the first pic that the OP said is not his car

 

Whew thanks guys for telling me. I didn't get to the last line stating the engine bay in the 1st post was not his. I was totally under the impression that he has an FD that has been squeezing. I was going to ask if he found the mini NOS bottles tucked away in the passenger seat signed by Vin Diesel. =)

 

And I'm sorry. Forgot about the first photo. My WI nozzle frequently gets mistaken for some FNF NOS system too. Maybe I'm a little sensitive.

 

~9470a- 1993 Mazda RX-7 Only 43k Miles 1-Owner 93 rx 7 rx7


Looks like she is for sale already

 

Lol. That's the dealer I bought it from. Its not for sale.

 

Lol no way?

So is it a r1?
Or a base