pezman

I am currently 2 weeks away from buying the 1987 rx-7 fc i posted about in my introduction. I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on what to look for, besides the usual mileage, rust, etc. Any help would be great!

CynicalGambit

look for any leaks, if it smokes, to make sure the engine is ok and take it for a drive if possible to make sure there arent any hidden issues. Im not totally sure if this is what you're asking for but 7's tend to have issues around 3000 rpm range and a fuel cut issue while making turns at times.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Try to restart the car after driving it and letting it fully warm up. Hot starts are an issue on these cars and unless you have the money/time/knowledge on how to address it properly, you should probably keep looking.

pezman

Thanks guys, i drove it around once already, and nothing seemed to come up, ill keep my eyes peeled for issues cornering and at that rpm as well.

93_2jz_fd

check the underside and frame rails, i always do that when buying a new car. possibly even take the car to have a a compression test done on the motor

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

How To Buy An '86-'92 Non-Turbo RX-7
How To Buy An '86-'92 Turbo RX-7

cloud97

Compression check, and check if fluid level is the same since the last time you drove it

FRUSH

I always check compression and make sure it restarts when warm, and if I get a chance I'll crank it when cold with the radiator cap off to rule out coolant seals.

bmwtmx

Always look for paint issues as well. Mechanical issues are easy to fix but body/paint can ruin any chances you might have of selling the car when that time comes. Not to mention the issues that might arise if the work wasn't done well.

CrimsonTideRTR

Most importantly don't be afraid to walk away if the deal isn't right.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Abso-freaking-lutely!!! Mechanical issues can be dealt with, assuming the proper "do the homework" mentality. But bodywork is another story, often a horror story with pounds of bondo falling off...

Modifications done correctly are an asset, such as a properly wired 130A Taurus alternator (which I highly recommend for reliability). Modifications done wrong are a nightmare to resolve, such as an E-fan being powered through the ignition switch with no relay or fuse(s)

Oh, and these cars WILL destroy attempts to cheap out by using items from the 'magic promise goo' aisle at Autozone. When I needed a new cat back, I tried using a cheap patch kit. Car tolerated it for a week, then motivated me to order a new cat back from Racing Beat by backfiring so loud and forcefully that it blew the patched muffler off. A $700 lesson right there, but well worth having a proper stainless steel exhaust made to handle the brutal heat of a turbo rotary

pezman

Thanks I ended up buying it, but the problem is the opposite, cold starts give me a problem but it cranks in 1 go when its hot