Mavman117

I have been rebuilding an 89 rx-7 gxl 13b n/a. had some body damage and i didnt care about that. Also wouldn't start. I had no problem with that either because I bought the car to take the engine apart so I could learn about rotaries and make this engine my own ya know. So here is the problem. I have gotten the engine apart. I am now looking at a rebuild. There was a apex shatter so a rotor and a housing are completely shot. Luckily there is no damage to the side housings (I will include picture). So my question is what should I replace, which brands (I was thinking ALS for the side seals and apex) and what do I NOT need so I know which kit to buy so I can save the most money. I have no problem buying new rotors and housings because I have been working on this car for a few years now. Just would like some input. Also how do I know which weight the rotors are and how do I (when I buy new rotors) do I let the company know which weight I need. BTW the engine has 120K on the used rotors but the engine other than the one rotor and housing looks to be in good shape.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Use Mazda OEM or Atkins seals.

I would lean towards Atkins simply because Mazda has switched back to three piece seals, which do not wear as well as the the two piece seals they used for the past few years. Atkins seals are two piece.

Mavman117

I was thinking Atkins or ALS. Any info on ALS apex and side seals???

Also here are the rest of the pictures.

Are these parts good for 100K+ miles and do you think I should reuse the parts that didnt have damage from the apex seal failure???

Mavman117

Any more input?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I don't have experience with ALS seals personally, but I have heard plenty of both good and bad stories.

Why not just use OEM seals? I would stay away from the 3 piece OEM apex seals simply because they are three piece, but as for the rest of them, why stray?

I cannot judge from those pictures the quality of your parts. Well lit high resolution images are needed.

Mavman117

Okay well lets start with the things that I already know. I do know that I will need new APEX seals. Thats guaranteed. I do know that I will need a housing and a rotor. I saw these two housings on ebay and was wondering if they would do good. They look like they have some chatter marks and was wondering if that would make a huge difference or if they are ok. These are the rotors. I do not know whether I should use them or not because they look as if the gold coloring has been brushed off. Thanks again in advance for the help.

Mavman117

I was thinking about what all I would need to get as far as gaskets and I have no idea what I should get... Any suggestions?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need a complete gasket kit, available at the dealers and many aftermarket vendors. Most of the other hard seals are probably OK, but you should replace the corner seals and springs, as well as the side seals and springs. Don't worry about the oil o-ring carriers unless they are obviously broken.

The eBay housings look OK at first glance. Some chatter marks are normal.

The eBay rotor auction doesn't even make sense. There is no such thing as a "13B REW GTU" and non-turbo 2nd gens were not sold in Japan.

Mavman117

OK so I am looking at a turbo swap as I cannot find a used N/A to drop into the car. The one I am looking at getting has a engine, harness, ecu, turbo. I know that I will need a drive shaft which will cost me 150 which is no problem. I also know about the throttle cable and that is not a problem either. The things that I do not know if I need or not are these....

TID
Turbo boost sensor (strut tower)
selenoid resistor
Turbo Airflow meter

Here is the link to the engine....Here.


I think that the TID would come with the engine but I may be wrong. I have no Idea whether the Boost sensor would come with the engine or not or how easy it would be to locate one to buy. I have no idea what the solenoid resistor is or where I could even get one or if it even comes with the engine. The turbo Airflow Meter I do know what that is but I do not know where to locate one and also I would like to know whether the regular N/A airflow meter would be able to be used or not.

Also just wanted to say I know about the need for the turbo hood and am looking at either getting one or getting a front mounted inter-cooler.

Your prompt responses are greatly appreciated.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

You can get OEM parts (seals, gasket kits, rotors, housings etc) from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda. He gives us all some serious discounts. Phone is 888.533.3400

Mavman117

Well its either go the turbo way or rebuild my N/A. I would really like to own an FC that is turbo tho so I am kinda leaning towards that direction. Any info on the turbo parts I am looking for gracer???

Mavman117

Um so I was reading up on the rearends on the FC. Is it true that you cannot use a N/A rearend with a turbo driveshaft???

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That engine has some kind of aftermarket intercooler, so it may have an upgraded turbo as well. I can't tell from the pictures.

Make a TID.

The pressure sensor (only called a "boost sensor" on the NA RX-7...go figure) won't come with the engine.

The solenoid resistor is used when low impedance injectors are installed.

You will need a turbo AFM.

Basically, yes.

You can't mix and match drivetrain components without at least some custom work. If you are going to use the TII transmission, have a custom shaft made to connect to the NA rear end.

Mavman117

K thx for the input. The next thing is that I had a key cut from the dealership and every lock on the car doesn't work with the key I bought. No doors no ignition no glove box not even the storage bins will open. Does anyone know where the key code is located on the locks and how to get them out of the door. I can't seem to get to the second bolt and without the key I can't get the window out either so it seems to me that I am out of luck...

Any advice??