I have replaced my destroyed engine with a 10K mile engine. I'm new to rotaries, and haven't worked on cars since 1986. This thing is kicking my butt. It has definitely been a learning process.

In the five weekends I've been trying to get this car running, I've had the water pump and pump housing leaking, an intake manifold leaking coolant, cracked another intake by over tightening, broke an intake bolt, had a carb leaking everywhere, and now it still won't start.

I've set the distributor according to the FSM, I've read the "end all to starting" thread. The engine cranks great, but it won't fire off, not even the tiniest bit. With the plugs removed, it sounds like it has good compression ( i dont have a gauge). I've put in new plugs.

A couple of things, I've removed the plugs and cranked the engine, to expell any coolant that might have gotten inside because of the leaking intake.

And, I'm not 100% positive that I have the coil wires and ignition wires where they need to go. I didn't see anything in the FSM.
Which coil is the leading coil? From the photos in the FSM, it looks like it is the one closest to the firewall. I know the leading plugs are the lower plugs. Which plug is L1 and which one is L2?

Does anyone live in or near Tallahassee, that might be able to help me out? I'm near my wits end, and I'm running out of people to borrow cars from.

Thanks,
Todd

 

L1 is front rotor, L2 is rear rotor. I believe the leading coil is the one closest to the front of the car but it's been a while since I worked on a stock 1st gen.

 

trailing coil is toward the front.
as Aaron said though, rotor 1 is the front and rotor 2 is the rear.

some tips:
make sure your battery is strong.
make sure your cap and rotor are good.
make sure your wires are in the right place.
confirm fuel supply and spark.

aside from that, borrow/get a timing light and see where it's firing. i had a difficult engine once that i ended up having to set the distributor a little off the inidicated center for it to start and run right.

 

It lives!! Thanks guys.

I did have the wires backwards, that and a small wire that connected to the dizzy was broken.

 

Ugh! There was moisture on the bottom of the oil cap. Decided to change the oil again. When I got back from the parts store, it wouldn't start again.

Oh well, I know it will run. I guess I must have more of a fuel problem than I thought. By process of eliminations, I'll be able to drive this thing yet.

 

Moisture under the oil cap is common, nothing to worry about at this point. Later you can research adding a PCV valve to take care of it. For now, not worth worrying about.

Good site for carb info (assuming you are using the stock Nikki carb) is: www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Best of luck...




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