86RX7FC

it sounds like its running on a dead rotor.





after running that car with new spark plugs, the 2 on the left are from the rotor near the front bumper(smells like gas) and the 2 on the right came from the rotor near the fire wall(smells like nothing like its new).





i checked the resistance on the secondary injectors and it checked out ok. checked the resistance on plug on the crank angle sensor it too checked out ok. i tested the AFM, guess what... it checks out ok. tested the coil packs and check out ok. the only thing i havent done yet was checking the primary injectors. the compresion check i did came out to 50psi on the front rotor and 75psi on the rear rotor. i want to know what ppl say on here to try and save myself some time and effort. the answer that i dont want to hear is putting a v8 in there because thats NOT going to happen or getting rid of the car. i want to fix this if i can.

nickwest

TII or N/A?

86RX7FC

my bad for not saying. its n/a.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That is clearly a picture and video of an S4 NA.

It does indeed. Perform a quick and dirty compression test: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

If the engine passes the quick compression test, it looks like you have a bad rear primary injector. Pull all the injectors and have them cleaned and tested.

86RX7FC

does it make any kind of differance between the leading and trailing spark plug holes when performing a compresion test? the compresion test on the origional post is a test i did on the trailing spark plug holes.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Use leading. Not that it really matters. A compression test is only useful if the engine is warmed up and not flooded.

86RX7FC

whats the differece warmed up or not. would it give me a different reading for compression? today i did a compresion test when it was cold it kinda bounced around 60psi for both sides. it bounced pretty even too nothing to drastic to noticed it bounced pretty quick. i bet its probly my injectors but for some reason i cant get to the primary injectors. is there a link to a vid or pics that i could look at and see what im doing wrong. oh... and that link that you posed up was some good info. thanks. this thread is more productive that the other ones i have at other sites.

nickwest

aaron I'm sorry I can't see posted pictures from photobucket (its blocked on this network)

Just about any test is more accurate warmed up since those are your normal operating conditions

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What he said...Warm means that all the clearances are where they should be.

Take at the link I provided to see a basic compression test.

Why can you not get to the primary injectors? Just pull the upper intake manifold.

86RX7FC

i tried but it wont budge. i removed the one bolt and 4-5 nuts (cant remember how much) off the pasenger side and removed the bolts off the 2 brackets on the drivers side. is there anything else holding it down or would it need more force than what looks like an ape on top of a car trying to get a banana that you cant get out of the jar. lol. its on there real good if thats all there is. i would try a pry bar but i dont want to damage anything. ill try again later after i do a compresion check when the engine is warm. i really apreciate the help , i bought the car about 4 months ago not knowing a damn thing about the rotary and i can say ive learned a lot within that time.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you are just missing a bolt. You'll find intake removal instructions in the FSM (see FAQ).

86RX7FC

this makes me sound retarded but ive looked for it but i cant find it. the fsm that is. could you send me a link? thanks.

Scrims

iTrader: (2)

There are also a couple of nuts/bolts on the driver's side of the throttle body, kinda below the BAC.... This of course assuming you're taking the throttle body off with the upper intake as one piece.
I seem to remember those getting me hung up the first time i took off the upper intake, oh so long ago.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The FSM is in the 2nd gen FAQ. Open it up then use your browsers find feature (usually CTRL-F) and search for "manual".

86RX7FC

yea there are like 2 brackets that i found on the drivers side that i removed when i first tried pulling it off. idk maybe its just stuck on there over the years. i could try hitting it with a rubber malet the try and jar it loose. what do you think?

86RX7FC

god im retarded. i found it thanks. ill see what they have to say.

86RX7FC

a little update of some work that i did today. ok.......one of the O-rings on the secondary injector got messed from something i did and i got another. so i put everything back together and cranked it over. checked out the injector and it checked ok. i let it warm up to operating tempuratures to check compresion and i noticed when the engine was getting warmer the more rough the engine ran. when the engine warmed up completely it wouldnt idle and died. i checked the compresion and both rotors checked 60psi and bounced evenly. i decited to remove the fuel presure regulator on the fuel rail for the secondary injectors. i pulled the fuel line off first and i was expecting fuel of any amount to come out but nothing came out looked all dry to me. then i loosened the bolts and when i got the bolts off gas kinda sprayed all over. i was wondering if by any chance if the fuel presure regulater might be the problem? just a shot in the dark. im still new to this rotory stuff.

86RX7FC

well i got the intake off. found a bracket behind another braket. i was wondering if there was a way to use a volt/ohm meter to test the injectors to see if they are good or bad. just a pic i thought id post. probly wont serve a purpose but oh well.

86RX7FC

on the above picture can someone tell me what the 4 colored plugs are in the bottom right corner.

rotaryryan24

the injectors showed be 1.5 and 3 owhms if that helps

rotaryryan24

those plugs are part of your hole smog egr vacum lines set up, but they wouldn't effect your ejectors

86RX7FC

ive already done that all injectors check ok for the ohms. could the secondary and primary injectors be switched around to test them to see if its just the injectors or the wiring? another thing to point out is that it runs rough when cold and dies when warmed up.

86RX7FC

oh.. juse wondering what they were.

rotaryryan24

the lenght of the primary plug vs the secondary plug would make it hard to swicth them around. there is a way to test your injectors, pretty much use tie wire to hold them into the fuel rail, now run a tube from the injector to a measuring cup then with the ignition on manualy move the trap door upen on your afm to turn on your fuel pump and see if you get fuel.

86RX7FC

good idea. ill have to try that some time. just doing some more brainstorming WHAT IF the injectors are good but not getting a signal or weak signal what would i have to do to figure this out if this is the problem. on a side note i have no previous knowlege of working on a rotory.