need help 86 rx7
#27
pretty much all your injecters share a ground wire the ecu sends out a positive voltage to open then. the resistor box converts the signal to a lower ohms so the injecter understand it.
#28
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is it in the front pasengers side mounted to the wheel well. if it is its chrome in color you can see it in the fist pic in the bottom left corner. i think thats what your talking about. would you know what the ohms should read? thanks im getting some valuable information.
#29
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
The injectors are supplied 12V through the resistor, which limits current.
The ECU switches the ground line to the injectors.
Without the resistors, the low impedance injectors will sink a lot of current and burn out the drivers in the ECU.
Converting the signal to a "lower Ohms" doesn't make any sense.
a little update of some work that i did today. ok.......one of the O-rings on the secondary injector got messed from something i did and i got another. so i put everything back together and cranked it over. checked out the injector and it checked ok. i let it warm up to operating tempuratures to check compresion and i noticed when the engine was getting warmer the more rough the engine ran. when the engine warmed up completely it wouldnt idle and died. i checked the compresion and both rotors checked 60psi and bounced evenly. i decited to remove the fuel presure regulator on the fuel rail for the secondary injectors. i pulled the fuel line off first and i was expecting fuel of any amount to come out but nothing came out looked all dry to me. then i loosened the bolts and when i got the bolts off gas kinda sprayed all over. i was wondering if by any chance if the fuel presure regulater might be the problem? just a shot in the dark. im still new to this rotory stuff.
The injectors will show the correct resistance and still be bad. This test proves nothing.
the lenght of the primary plug vs the secondary plug would make it hard to swicth them around. there is a way to test your injectors, pretty much use tie wire to hold them into the fuel rail, now run a tube from the injector to a measuring cup then with the ignition on manualy move the trap door upen on your afm to turn on your fuel pump and see if you get fuel.
Please stop spreading misinformation. If you don't understand something, don't post.
#30
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i havent sent out the injectors to be cleaned and tested. could this be done and oriely auto parts or like advance auto and how much would it cost. oh... and how can i tell if the fuel presure regualtor is good or bad...... and one more question, could the ecu be bad and where is it located. i think its by the fuse box on the kick panel on the drivers side.
Last edited by 86RX7FC; 02-01-09 at 12:26 PM.
#31
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
In case you are wondering, the reason I keep suggesting to send the injectors out is because I have been in this situation about 5 times when working on other people's project cars. Injectors don't like sitting very much and after a year or so they will start to stick and clog. I've spent a stupid amount of time trying to troubleshoot half an engine running without first having the injectors serviced because "they worked when it was parked".
Check the Yellow pages for "injection service". Most communities have at least one shop with a gasoline injector cleaning and testing rig. The majority of the auto parts stores don't have the equipment to properly test and clean injectors.
Check the Yellow pages for "injection service". Most communities have at least one shop with a gasoline injector cleaning and testing rig. The majority of the auto parts stores don't have the equipment to properly test and clean injectors.
#32
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In case you are wondering, the reason I keep suggesting to send the injectors out is because I have been in this situation about 5 times when working on other people's project cars. Injectors don't like sitting very much and after a year or so they will start to stick and clog. I've spent a stupid amount of time trying to troubleshoot half an engine running without first having the injectors serviced because "they worked when it was parked".
Check the Yellow pages for "injection service". Most communities have at least one shop with a gasoline injector cleaning and testing rig. The majority of the auto parts stores don't have the equipment to properly test and clean injectors.
Check the Yellow pages for "injection service". Most communities have at least one shop with a gasoline injector cleaning and testing rig. The majority of the auto parts stores don't have the equipment to properly test and clean injectors.
#33
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
one thing to point out is that famus hesitation/spudder this issue had progresivly getting worse and worse on my car then all this happen some how i think its related to the problem i have. another question... could my car run properly if there is no belt on the air pump? and i noticed that in the lower right corner of the pic which is called an auxiliary port valve thing and i noticed that it was not funtional it was stuck in one position i was wondering if this might have something to do with the problem i have been having. i did get this thing unstuck and moving again if you were wondering.
#34
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#35
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#36
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the image on the left is called solenoid resistor and the image on the right is called main relay. thats all it really says and how to test it in the haynes manual that i have. i was wondering if some one could explain wat they are and what they do. i did not test the thing on the right yet (key word yet). i tried to test the thing on the left, it says in the book to test the resistance between two points and it should read between 5 and 7 ohms but the problem with that is that when i did this the resistance would not read a solid reading, it would keep reading a steady increase in resistance and it would start reading around 3-4 ohms and it would go over 7ohms and keeps going. not sure when it stopped but it keept going over the recomended resistance. the other thing that could help diagnose my problem is it would start ok when its cold but run rough and it would die when warm and have a hard time starting back up when warm. i hope this information helps. hopfully i can get this back on the road but this spring/early summer. i apreciate all the help that ive been getting so far and hope to get more good help down the road.
Last edited by 86RX7FC; 02-03-09 at 02:55 PM.
#37
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
The solenoid resistor is a pack of 4 resistors. Each resistor goes in series with an injector to limit current.
The main relay is really the "main EFI" relay and switches all EFI related stuff on and off.
It sounds like you may be measuring the solenoid resistor wrong. Can you have someone with experience running a multimeter check it? A failed solenoid resistor could result in an injector not firing.
The main relay is really the "main EFI" relay and switches all EFI related stuff on and off.
It sounds like you may be measuring the solenoid resistor wrong. Can you have someone with experience running a multimeter check it? A failed solenoid resistor could result in an injector not firing.
#38
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The solenoid resistor is a pack of 4 resistors. Each resistor goes in series with an injector to limit current.
The main relay is really the "main EFI" relay and switches all EFI related stuff on and off.
It sounds like you may be measuring the solenoid resistor wrong. Can you have someone with experience running a multimeter check it? A failed solenoid resistor could result in an injector not firing.
The main relay is really the "main EFI" relay and switches all EFI related stuff on and off.
It sounds like you may be measuring the solenoid resistor wrong. Can you have someone with experience running a multimeter check it? A failed solenoid resistor could result in an injector not firing.
#39
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just an update and probly the last as well. i got a used fuel injector resistor pack on ebay for $11 and they were located here in MN so i got the part fairly quick. i put it in my car and turned the key, then it fired right up with no fuss and ran really smooth. got the hood back in place and took it for a test drive. it runs just fine now. im relived that it was nothing that was too bad. thanks for all the help and advice. oh... and aaron cake i found some of your build threads.... nice work!
#40
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Excellent. Those resistor packs don't fail too often so be happy that your first failure was an odd one.
I'd still recommend getting those injectors serviced. It's probably never been done.
I'd still recommend getting those injectors serviced. It's probably never been done.
#41
Its alive!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im probly going to drive it as is. then ill be saving money on buying either a 13b turbo or a 13b n/a and rebuilding it 'n maybe some drivability mods as well. then when its ready ill just swap engines to minimize vehicle down time. when the engine thats in there get pulled out then the real fun will begin.