NA S4 Won't start
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From: Cluj Napoca, Romania
NA S4 Won't start
Hello guys,
I recently bought a NA '86 RX7, i got it with the engine out, fitted it back in yesterday, and tried to start it without success. I have spark, also injectors seem to work because the spark plugs got wet after cranking it a few times. I've set the right mark on the pulley to the mark on the front cover, set the distributor rotor arm with the arrow mark on it to L1, still no luck. Also tried reversing the ignition coil leads (T&L) on the distributor as i don't know the right order and didn't find it in any manual, maybe i wasn't looking hard enough, so... any hints on this would be appreciated.
Cheers!
I recently bought a NA '86 RX7, i got it with the engine out, fitted it back in yesterday, and tried to start it without success. I have spark, also injectors seem to work because the spark plugs got wet after cranking it a few times. I've set the right mark on the pulley to the mark on the front cover, set the distributor rotor arm with the arrow mark on it to L1, still no luck. Also tried reversing the ignition coil leads (T&L) on the distributor as i don't know the right order and didn't find it in any manual, maybe i wasn't looking hard enough, so... any hints on this would be appreciated.
Cheers!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-order-326259/
plug wire order. also are all of your grounds hooked up?
plug wire order. also are all of your grounds hooked up?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Cluj Napoca, Romania
well, thy're marked on the distributor cap T, T1, T2, L, L1, L2. T1&2 are on the upper plug, #1 being towards the front of the car, L1&2 lower plug, but not sure about T & L on the ignition coils. i also cranked the car with all the plugs out of the engine, just with the leads hooked up and they all spark...
finally i tried a compression test with a piston comp meter, with the check valve removed, throttle wide open. when cranking i saw the needle pulse constantly between the 20-40 psi mark. after that i did a run with he check valve in place and on the first rotor it went up to 60 psi and on the second only to 40 psi, now, if the compression test i've made is correct i think i know where my problem is...
finally i tried a compression test with a piston comp meter, with the check valve removed, throttle wide open. when cranking i saw the needle pulse constantly between the 20-40 psi mark. after that i did a run with he check valve in place and on the first rotor it went up to 60 psi and on the second only to 40 psi, now, if the compression test i've made is correct i think i know where my problem is...
Last edited by AndreiSG; Dec 30, 2014 at 12:05 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Cluj Napoca, Romania
i'm sure it's an S4, and it has a distributor. maybe they gave me the wrong engine,
but at least it was fitted on the car before as it had the electrical connectors that plug on the dist. 
well here's a video of the second rotor comp test, i know this isn't the right way to check the compression, but it still shows that it's f*cked up...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyBs...ature=youtu.be
and pics with the engine:
but at least it was fitted on the car before as it had the electrical connectors that plug on the dist. 
well here's a video of the second rotor comp test, i know this isn't the right way to check the compression, but it still shows that it's f*cked up...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyBs...ature=youtu.be
and pics with the engine:
Last edited by AndreiSG; Dec 30, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
Where are you located? If your out've the states, thats why you have a distributor. Us 'mericans aren't used to seeing a dizzy on a FC unless modified.
But yes, sadly, take the engine back out and rebuild it, it needs it
But yes, sadly, take the engine back out and rebuild it, it needs it
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