NA FC Stalled. wont start!
NA FC Stalled. wont start!
was trying to wiggle my way into my parking spot when my 88 13b na stalled. wouldnt start. only starts if i spray a small amount of starting fluid in it. then it only runs if i hold maf flap open.
illustration of issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWOYEF5iOhg
is bone stock, no mods what so ever
illustration of issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWOYEF5iOhg
is bone stock, no mods what so ever
The need for starting fluid says it's not getting enough fuel on startup or more air than the ECU is seeing via the AFM. And the need to prop the AFM door open to keep it running also says that engine is not getting enough fuel / too much air at idle. The further the AFM door moves, the more fuel the ECU delivers because it thinks it's measuring a large volume of air. My guess would be you have a large vacuum leak. Check the air intake duct, vacuum lines, etc...
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Soapy water is probably not gonna help with a vacuum leak.
For one that's causing the car to not start, I'd think it'd have to be pretty large. You should see an obvious break or disconnected hose.
Get the car running with your prop in the MAF and use a can of starting spray. Spray around the manifolds and near any hoses and pipes... The engine will rev up a little when you find the right spot.
For one that's causing the car to not start, I'd think it'd have to be pretty large. You should see an obvious break or disconnected hose.
Get the car running with your prop in the MAF and use a can of starting spray. Spray around the manifolds and near any hoses and pipes... The engine will rev up a little when you find the right spot.
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ok previous owner was aidiot i see alot of disconnected also some weord *** chip in line on the upper right corner of the engine. also alot of disconnected things. i could not find a vacum leak for the life of me.





i am open to ideas..save me! lol





i am open to ideas..save me! lol
The first picture is too blurry for me to make out, but the rest of them show test connectors. They're not supposed to be plugged into anything. The hose would normally connect to the air pump, but an S4 will run just fine without one.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
That "chip" is a scam often sold on eBay. It contains a resistor which alters the value of the stock IAT to try and fool the ECU into making more power by adding more fuel. It does not work. Remove it.
i figured it was something useless. thank you. i am stumped as i cant find a vacuum leak but one must exist..
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Do you have a friend that smokes cigarettes? Or do you smoke?
Remove the air box and MAF.
Put a brick on the gas pedal. (Engine off obviously.)
Have them blow a whole bunch of smoke into the air pipe where the MAF used to be... Fill the entire intake plenum with smoke.
Cover the air pipe so the smoke can't get out.
Look for the smoke.
I have a smoke machine for this purpose.
Remove the air box and MAF.
Put a brick on the gas pedal. (Engine off obviously.)
Have them blow a whole bunch of smoke into the air pipe where the MAF used to be... Fill the entire intake plenum with smoke.
Cover the air pipe so the smoke can't get out.
Look for the smoke.
I have a smoke machine for this purpose.
Other possible sources of vacuum leaks:
Vacuum 'diaphragms' such as the brake booster diaphragm - spray starting fluid around the seams in the diaphragm with the car @ idle, see if it changes speed/pitch.
Blown intake manifold gasket - again, if you spray starting fluid around the edges of the mating surfaces between the upper intake manifold, lower manifold, and housings you should hear a change in engine speed or pitch if you "find" the leak. (this would be unusual on an NA car, but hey, if you're out of other things to try...)
Finally, another thing to try is plugging or blocking off the fittings at each end of the vaccuum line hoses. A hose could have a big enough cut or hole in it for the fluid to fail to seal it off, so actually pinching hoses & plugging fittings is the more thorough (and more bothersome) method for checking.
Oh - and try not to inhale too much ether along the way!
Hope this helps....
Vacuum 'diaphragms' such as the brake booster diaphragm - spray starting fluid around the seams in the diaphragm with the car @ idle, see if it changes speed/pitch.
Blown intake manifold gasket - again, if you spray starting fluid around the edges of the mating surfaces between the upper intake manifold, lower manifold, and housings you should hear a change in engine speed or pitch if you "find" the leak. (this would be unusual on an NA car, but hey, if you're out of other things to try...)
Finally, another thing to try is plugging or blocking off the fittings at each end of the vaccuum line hoses. A hose could have a big enough cut or hole in it for the fluid to fail to seal it off, so actually pinching hoses & plugging fittings is the more thorough (and more bothersome) method for checking.
Oh - and try not to inhale too much ether along the way!
Hope this helps....
Last edited by HoosierDaddy; Jan 15, 2010 at 01:02 PM. Reason: incomplete thought
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...el+pressure%3F
Do everything I did, you'll find your problem.
Do everything I did, you'll find your problem.
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