boriballer08

HEY GUYS, THIS WEBSITE IS GREAT!!! ALRIGHT LAST YEAR I BOUGHT A FC SE BONE STOCK, DID SOME MODS( WELDED 5TH N 6TH PORT,HEADERS,SPARK PLUG N WIRES,DUAL EX. N DID SOME GUTTING OUT ETC..) ANYWAYS I RACE A COUPLE OF TIMES BEAT SOME PPL LOST ONCE THIS YEAR I WANT MORE POWER SO IM THINKING OF PUTTING A S5 TURBO II ENGINE FROM JDM (TRANNY,ECU INCLUDED) I WANNA GET TO AT LEAST 300-350 HP...NOW DO I NEED A WIRING HARNESS FROM THE NEW ENGINE I'M GETTING?,WHAT ELSE DO I NEED? GOT $3000 TO SPEND ON IT SOME FEW IDEAS FROM SOME EXPERT WOULD HELP SO MUCH

ANY INFO U GUYS NEED LET ME KNOW THANX GUYS!!!

Icemark

As a hint... all caps indicates that you are shouting and yelling.

If you are trying to put in a S5 engine, into a S4 car, you will not just need an engine harness, but you will need a custom harness, or since you are looking for above average increase in power, you actually would be better off using a stand alone such as a Haltec or Microtec and use the harness that the aftermarket ECU comes with.

boriballer08

yea sorry im not shouting or yelling,im a pretty easy goin guy..anyways well the place that im buying the engine includes the wiring harness and ecu later on i was gonna get microtech but not now...is that all i need or do i need more

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Brand new thread on this just popped up in the 2nd gen section: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/

Get yourself a S4 TII motor. The S5 is rated at ~15 more hp mostly because it runs 7.5psi max instead of 5.5psi. A boost controller easily solves this issue. The S4 will be FAR easier to swap in too.

boriballer08

hey thanx for the link, I bookmarked it for later use,im pretty sure im going to need it...ok i did some research and on the engine im goin to buy is a S5, thats the only one they got and i dont want to order it from a different source b/c i dont want to pay 350$ in shipping, i live in florida and theres a jdm miami which i can just pick up the engine free...just found out that i also need a TII driveshaft and something else that bolts on it cant remember wat it was...

mazdaracer78

do your homework...

do you think a companion flange is all you need?

come on, take RotaryRocket88's advice...

if you use a s4 tII setup, it's far easier to make work...

not to mention jdm vs domestic ecu's...

not to mention if you want to achieve 300-350 hp, you should run a stand alone setup like icemark mentioned...

in other words, DO YOUR HOMEWORK, do not expect everyone to do it for you...

boriballer08

what are u talking about jdm vs domestic ecu's?? i dont expect anybody to do my homework,all i did was ask a couple of questions from ppl that have done the swap,s4 tII setup its easier i know that..but im getting a s5 tII so there for easy is not in my reach...companion flange??

waxball88

That.

mazdaracer78

the jdm ecu and harness is DIFFERENT than an american ecu and harness...

it's not pleasurable trying to interlace jdm ecu and passenger side harness to a s4 na driver's side...

mazdaracer78

you would realize that the "only thing" that bolts to the drive shaft is a companion flange....

by the way... an automatic drive shaft would be a better choice...

it's a direct bolt in... tII spline on the tail shaft of the transmission and a non turbo bolt configuration on the diff's companion flange.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Series swaps (ie S4 to S5 and vice versa) are wiring nightmares. That's not to say you can't do it, but you're going to need to study both sets of wiring diagrams carefully to figure out all the rewiring that will need to be done.

As for ECU differences, JDM N374 ECUs (S5 Turbo) are evil and rarely work on US-spec harnesses. Find an N370 ECU instead. If not mentioned already, you should also buy yourself a US-spec S5 TII harness. J-spec harnesses are not long enough since they're made for RHD cars.

And the driveshaft you will want is made by mazdatrix. It costs $280, but it's a TII shaft with an NA bolt pattern. The NA auto driveshaft that was mentioned will work, but should only be used as a temporary measure. It is not as long as a TII driveshaft, and will not slide in all the way onto the transmission output shaft. Using it under heavy load conditions could shear it completely off.

mazdaracer78

from what mazdatrix told a friend of mine on the drive shaft is that what they sell is a refurbished automatic...

perhaps there is a slight difference in length, yet it's not much of a concern of mine...

i do not believe in putting a band aid on a gun shot wound...

what i mean by this is the fact that the boriballer08 is shooting for 300-350 hp...

his na diff and drive axles will not take that repeatedly, unless he runs REALLY sh!ty tires...lol

drstenso

T2? sounds like a good idea to me

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

I have the mazdatrix NA/TII driveshaft in my car, and it fits perfectly (2+ inches on the output shaft). The auto driveshaft is 1 inch shorter, so only 1 inch is on the output shaft. Check out this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/tii-tranny-n-rear-ean-auto-driveshaft-skechy-563528/. 13th post down is from a guy that had his auto driveshaft pop out and make an oil mess.

And obviously swapping out the rear end with a TII 8" rear is the best option, but the NA rear isn't as weak as some people would claim. Aaroncake's car is putting down 400+ whp on an NA open diff, and my car is putting down ~250 whp on an NA LSD with no problems. Unless you're drop clutch launching all the time on sticky tires, you should be ok.

mazdaracer78

as long as the back lash is good... the diff will hold. the weakest point is the drive mount where the axles bolt in. also, a dog leg should hold up better to high horsepower. it's gonna break traction easier. the easier you can break traction, the less strain on the drive train. answer this and i will leave you alone... what good is owning a sports car if you cannot drop the clutch repeatedly without worrying about it?... lol i have roughly 175 hp to the wheels with a complete tII drive train and i love the fact that if i'm on the street lined up next to a kid in a honda on a saturday night... i can launch it and not have to wait to see if the tow truck beats the police to my car...

mazdaracer78

i read the whole thing. i'm not saying that the auto shaft can't fall out. i'm just saying that i've known about a half dozen guys over the years that have done this personally with no ill consequence. i would imagine that one important thing to consider is having a GOOD tight driveline setup when doing this (engine, tranny, and diff mounts in good order).

the one thing that i did not see mentioned in the post that, to me, seems like the best solution is... lengthen the auto driveshaft?

i will definitely advise anyone i encounter in the future to proceed with caution while doing this...

as for me, i love my tII drivetrain, but my tires don't...lol

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The main key is sticky tires. The average street tire is not going to hook up enough to break the diff. If I drop the clutch at 4k+, the wheels spin for a bit, then it's all solid (w/ 7" summer tires). Wheel hop breaks diffs. Good old spinning doesn't. You're not going to be using 10" slicks on the street, so it's not really a concern.

mazdaracer78

i've known for decades that wheel spin actually is better on the driveline...

i've just never been into street radials...

i guess that's why i did the "overkill" move and installed a tII driveline...

hey RotaryRocket88, have you ever heard of someone lengthening the auto dshaft?

just curious...

niburu

iTrader: (1)

Additionally it should be noted that it's cheaper and easier to just buy a TII than do the whole drivetrain swap.

mazdaracer78

i got a complete low mileage tII parts car in 02 for $500... it is easier buy a TII from the get go, however...

niburu

iTrader: (1)

that's an unusual case, so yes if you find a deal like that then it's definitely worth doing

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

I don't think I've seen anything where somone did that, but the better option would be to get a TII driveshaft and get the 4-bolt flange swapped out with one from an NA. That way it's already to length. I'm fairly sure that's what Mazdatrix is doing for their TII/NA driveshafts anyway.

Yeah most people should just buy a TII. But in my opinion, good exceptions are verts and '86 base models. The only way you're getting a turbo vert is if you build it yourself or import one from Japan. And the '86 base model was only ~2600 lbs. from the factory, so it can make a great platform for the turbo engine.

Of course, most people end up swapping engines rather than buying a whole new car since they're too attached to their car & have likely spent a ton of money on the body/suspension/interior etc...that they'll lose upon selling.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I have the N/A rear end in,right now,and I am running an N/A engine with the TII transmission.
I got the Conversion shaft(TII diff to n/a rear).
I got it used,which saved a hell of alot,seeing as I could just Install and GO.
I posted this as a HINT.You can drive the TII engine car with the N/A rear end.just don't Drive the Crap out of it.It won't last.It is not Made for the extra power.
So,If you as Broke,then,take note.It Will do,until you are more "able' to get the Better Rear end setup.

boriballer08

ok this is a nightmare...if i could just find a tII then no prob. but they are hard to find and if i find one they run you pretty high $$$, im gonna look around for a s4 tii swap if i cant find one im goin for the s5 tii swap...all i wanna do for right now is swap my N/A for a turbo model,me pushing 300-350 hp can wait, all i wanna do is boost then go bigger later on... so let me get this straight on what i need to make this happen n correct me if im wrong or let me know what i missed..

s4 swap will be far more easy to do...why?

s5 swap will be complicated why?

No matter what kind of swap i get i need a tii drive shaft that will bolt on into my n/a rear drive which thanx for the source im gonna get the aluminum one from mazdatrix...i also need the companion flange, im starting to look for that now...

ecu/harness is where im gonna have problems at...from what your saying the jdm's S5 ecu are bad to work with and they barely work,so can a s4 ecu work on it better? wiring diagrams could be hard but not impossible,just takes patients and some reading and studying...can i still use jdm's ecu or i have to get N370 ECU...i also need a US-spec S5 TII harness...

and im gonna get all of the little stuff that i need so it runs right,my biggest concern is the ecu and harness im a little confuse on that...the drive shaft part i think i got it right..thanx for the info...just like everybody is saying get a tII instead but ive look hard for them n its too much,like i said i got 3000 and i think that far enough so i can get my na running boosted,i dont have to boost alot or push high hp...if any thing let me know...thanx

mazdaracer78

let me try to make this brief...

s4 driver's harness + s5 passenger harness (jdm) = wiring nightmare

s4 driver's harness + s5 passenger harness (american) = less work

s4 driver's harness + s4 passenger harness (american) = least work

of course use the appropriate ecu for the equation above, that you choose.

you can buy a base line standalone assembled for around $400. you could also obtain a s4 tII harness and ecu, use s4 sensors, injectors, and so forth on your jspec block, intake, and turbo.

also, to clear it up... if you have a na companion flange on your hog's head, that's what the mazdatrix conversion driveshaft is FOR...