well i know it "works", but is it advisable? work well or does it slide in fine or is it skechy??

 

Avoid it at all costs.

 

haha ok anyone els? (not that i dont beleve you sonic, you have a good rep) but is ther anyone els

 

If there is and they say anything else, I'll stab em first thing.

I mean, if you absolutely MUST get to work and back or just to move it up and down the driveway or something, then it'll be fine. But definatly try to do something different.


Note: Damn, it's been forever since I been round Eau Claire... I miss the land of the cheese.

 

hahah ya i try haha well thanks for the info, and if you wouldent mind looking at my other post on this topic? the label to it is "custom driveshaft" and ther is wher a guy told me to and if you could answer my ?'s on ther thanks alot man

 

it's one inch too short... so you have only about half the spline into the tranny. So it can work, but it would easy to have come out or break.

And your bump has been deleted. Pretty damm rude and immature to bump in only a half hour and bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen tech section.

 

What I've done for now in my s5 jspec swap is (since the car was an auto) took the yoke and put it on an N/a 5 speed driveshaft until I can locate and purchase all my s5 t2 drivetrain, its working great!

 

so get and auto shaft and put a tii yoke on it (temperary)

 

(ohhh and p.s) sorry icemark

 

Thats not bad, I've seen bumps in under 5 minutes.

 

Yeah, I know. We try and delete them as fast as we find them. You gotta admit that is just someone that thinks he or she is so much better than anyone else that they can't wait their turn. Betcha they push through to the front of the line at movies and sporting events as well.

and every now and then we let one of the very few questions that has not been asked before get bumped anyway... despite the rule.

 

The auto yoke is the same as the Turbo yoke. That is why people use it.

But the drive shaft itself is about an inch too short from fitting in correctly. It fits, but again if you have more than 1 inch of play in the drive line, it can come out or shear off.

 

why dont get a turbo trans to N/A rear driveshaft from mazdatrix? less risky that the Dshaft will pop off the tranny plus is the same leght of the turbo driveshaft. i have one and i did the auto drievshaft on my turbo tranny and i had to replace the tailshaft housing because the auto driveshaft poped off and made a mess

 

what is part #?

could you direct me to a link to mazdatrix's website?

 

can a business that does driveshafts do it for me if i had both???(tii and NA) like cut and shift stuff around

 

MazdaTrix sells tii to n/a driveshafts

 

I had a local hi perf driveline shop make a driveshaft for me. bring in your n/a shaft and the TII or auto yoke and they should be able to make a strong shaft with replacable u-joints. The guy that made mine said the splines matched an old Chrysler yoke he had in stock and the rest he made. Cost me $260

 

does it matter if the tranny is an S4 or S5 turbo to mate with an S4 NA diff.?

 

260 wow, i had a guy tell me around her like 80-100 bucks hmm well i guess it will work..
becouse my real ? was if the tii shaft is to big to mate with the NA (cut and weld) they are the same lenge are they not but what about diamiter

 

I stated for you in the other thread that they are not the same diamiter NA shafts are 2.5 and TII shafts are 3. Only the yoke splines of the AT shaft are same as TII shaft so the yoke can swap onto a NA shaft.

 

Diameter of the driveshaft doesnt matter. I've seen manual NA's with different diameter shafts, no pattern as to series or year. The ends are what determine fitment, as well as length obviously. Manual turbo and manual NA shafts are the same lengths, but the ends are different, though it would be possible to swap yokes with an auto and manual NA shaft and make it work fine.

 

it does when the FC shaft is same diamiter as the yoke flange :-D

 

ok to sum up this mess, get a auto shaft put the yoke on my NA and call it good till i get rear end

 

no, you just are not getting it.

The auto drive shaft already has the R type yoke on it, however (again- makes you wonder how many times we have to post this) the auto drive shaft is too short to full fit in.

I am not understanding why you are not getting this. It has been covered in this thread several times.

lets make it more simple:

Auto drive shaft = right ends (connections), wrong length
Turbo drive shaft = right front, right length, wrong rear connection
Non turbo manual tranny drive shaft = right rear connection/end, right length, won't mate to a Turbo (R type) tranny.

Custom Mazdatrix drive shaft = right ends, right length, wrong price.

 

Hehe... wrong price.

Here's something else to think about: a few years ago, I contacted the Driveshaft Shop about making me a custom aluminum driveshaft. Now, keep in mind that this is a fully balanced, professionally made, custom aluminum driveshaft that is saving weight over the stock shaft, and they quoted me $400. Like I said, this was a few years ago. I told them I'd need an N/A driveshaft with the TII yolk, and they didn't even screw around with ambiguities; they said straight up, "give us these measurements" and they would make a shaft that would fit.

Aside from that, a decent shop should be able to modify your shaft to make it work (provided you've got the right yolk) for a good price, but make sure the thing is balanced. That seems to be a rather glaring difference between the professional shops and the cheap guys. Proper balancing will be worth the extra money.

Oh, and DSS knows what they are doing!