Last rites for 1990 RX-7?
#1
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Last rites for 1990 RX-7?
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I have a 90 RX-7 that is probably on its last legs and could use some advice. Of course, with a 28 year old car, there are always going to be issues, but the one that is going to kill my baby is a rusted/leaking fuel line. Right now, it's a very small leak, but I'm sure it will get worse over time. My regular mechanic (not an RX-7 guy) said he doesn't even want to open up this can of worms because it's so rusted underneath, once he starts pulling things apart to get to the fuel line, he suspects he won't be able to get it back together. I took it to a Mazda dealership to get their take on it, and was told even if they could take it apart and put it back together, they couldn't find parts, new, used, or aftermarket. It runs, and drives beautifully (I just drove it back from the dealership), but right now, with the fuel leak, it's not really drivable, and is just parked in my garage.
So, I'm trying to evaluate my options.
I could sell it, but don't really have any idea of its value. The ones for sale on line vary from $ 2000 - $20,000, but I can't really compare because I don't know what kind of shape these cars are in. It still looks good, inside and out, but it's not immaculate.
I would like to restore it, but have no idea how much that would cost. Nor do I know of anywhere nearby that would take on this kind of job. KDRotary did some work for me years ago, but apparently were absorbed by Speed1. Unfortunately, when I contacted Speed1 last week, said they don't do rotary work anymore. I looked through the list of shops in the NE section of this forum, but most of the posts are from more than 10 years ago, and I suspect the information is no longer current.
I'm in Easton, PA, by Allentown. Any suggestions, information, leads, thoughts, ideas, or offers are welcome.
I have a 90 RX-7 that is probably on its last legs and could use some advice. Of course, with a 28 year old car, there are always going to be issues, but the one that is going to kill my baby is a rusted/leaking fuel line. Right now, it's a very small leak, but I'm sure it will get worse over time. My regular mechanic (not an RX-7 guy) said he doesn't even want to open up this can of worms because it's so rusted underneath, once he starts pulling things apart to get to the fuel line, he suspects he won't be able to get it back together. I took it to a Mazda dealership to get their take on it, and was told even if they could take it apart and put it back together, they couldn't find parts, new, used, or aftermarket. It runs, and drives beautifully (I just drove it back from the dealership), but right now, with the fuel leak, it's not really drivable, and is just parked in my garage.
So, I'm trying to evaluate my options.
I could sell it, but don't really have any idea of its value. The ones for sale on line vary from $ 2000 - $20,000, but I can't really compare because I don't know what kind of shape these cars are in. It still looks good, inside and out, but it's not immaculate.
I would like to restore it, but have no idea how much that would cost. Nor do I know of anywhere nearby that would take on this kind of job. KDRotary did some work for me years ago, but apparently were absorbed by Speed1. Unfortunately, when I contacted Speed1 last week, said they don't do rotary work anymore. I looked through the list of shops in the NE section of this forum, but most of the posts are from more than 10 years ago, and I suspect the information is no longer current.
I'm in Easton, PA, by Allentown. Any suggestions, information, leads, thoughts, ideas, or offers are welcome.
#2
N/A FCs are not really worth that much sadly. If the car is that rusty to the point where the fuel lines can't be repaired it probably is a lost cause. I would list is up at $3000 and see what kinds of offers you get on it, but I doubt they will be very high due to the rust.
#4
Hey...Cut it out!
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FC is a second gen RX-7, N/A means Naturally Aspirated (as in not turbocharged). As for your fuel line issues, do you know where the leak is? Might take some effort to sufficiently de-rust the area, but it wouldn't be too difficult to cut out the damaged section and patch in some EFI hose (5/16" or 8mm). Might not be the prettiest solution, but it would do the job reliably.
Just make sure that before you start attacking the line with a Dremel, there are no ignitable vapors. De-pressurize the system (start car, unplug fuel pump, wait untill it stalls), then undo the lines at the pump (cap them off at the pump flange) and at the fuel filter (same deal). Come back the next day and then start the surgery.
The other option would be to replace the hardline. Much more complicated, Aaron Cake did so on his 1976 Cosmo project car and it was not fun to clone the original lines into stainless steel. Thankfully, every FC uses the same lines and you might be able to find a donor car relatively close. Try checking our classifieds for part out threads near you.
Just make sure that before you start attacking the line with a Dremel, there are no ignitable vapors. De-pressurize the system (start car, unplug fuel pump, wait untill it stalls), then undo the lines at the pump (cap them off at the pump flange) and at the fuel filter (same deal). Come back the next day and then start the surgery.
The other option would be to replace the hardline. Much more complicated, Aaron Cake did so on his 1976 Cosmo project car and it was not fun to clone the original lines into stainless steel. Thankfully, every FC uses the same lines and you might be able to find a donor car relatively close. Try checking our classifieds for part out threads near you.
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Akagis White Comet,
Unfortunately, I have neither the time nor expertise to take this job on. I am looking for a shop that might do so somewhere between Allentown and Newark, or could at least give me an estimate so I can make a decision as to whether it's worth it. KDRotary/Speed 1 no longer seem to be options.
Jim
Unfortunately, I have neither the time nor expertise to take this job on. I am looking for a shop that might do so somewhere between Allentown and Newark, or could at least give me an estimate so I can make a decision as to whether it's worth it. KDRotary/Speed 1 no longer seem to be options.
Jim
#6
Hey...Cut it out!
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Akagis White Comet,
Unfortunately, I have neither the time nor expertise to take this job on. I am looking for a shop that might do so somewhere between Allentown and Newark, or could at least give me an estimate so I can make a decision as to whether it's worth it. KDRotary/Speed 1 no longer seem to be options.
Jim
Unfortunately, I have neither the time nor expertise to take this job on. I am looking for a shop that might do so somewhere between Allentown and Newark, or could at least give me an estimate so I can make a decision as to whether it's worth it. KDRotary/Speed 1 no longer seem to be options.
Jim
With the car on jack stands, the fuel lines run along the driver's side frame rail (follow it back from the fuel filter under the hood). They have a sheet metal cover over them with M6 bolts holding it on. Pop the cover off, and jumper the pump to make it run. Watch for leaks. Be sure to have safety glasses/goggles on, getting anything in your eyes really sucks. I had a tiny chunk of steel in my left eye earlier this week, had to go to an Opthamologist to get it taken care of.
Chances are that it's probably one of the hose sections that has failed. Easy fix with some 8mm (5/16") EFI hose
#7
Rust underneath isn't a death sentence to any cat. It can look much worse than it is with sheet metal being rusty but if the floors and rockers are still alright, it's worth fixing. Id talk to a small shop instead of a dealer or a chain shop. Those types would much rather change brakes for $200 per wheel than get coated with rust and gas under your 30 year old car.
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Rust underneath isn't a death sentence to any cat. It can look much worse than it is with sheet metal being rusty but if the floors and rockers are still alright, it's worth fixing. Id talk to a small shop instead of a dealer or a chain shop. Those types would much rather change brakes for $200 per wheel than get coated with rust and gas under your 30 year old car.
Torque Restorations, thanks for the input. The mechanic that I take my cars to is just such a shop as you mention. In his opinion, it's not worth fixing, but I'm really just looking for a second opinion from someone local with expertise with RX-7s. KD Rotary is apparently gone, and Speed1 says their rotary guy is gone and they aren't interested, so I am looking for other options.
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