this is my first rx-7, i picked up a 87 turbo II. i have some things to ask and address


1. sunroof doesnt seem to work, i can hear the motor but it doesnt move?
2. which exhaust is best to run on these cars
3. what should i use to tune a minor bolt on car, safc? or a ecu reflash? is a ecu flash who should i use?
4.the car has 102k where should i start on maintenance other then, plugs, wires with these cars. i am new to these cars.

thank u everyone.

 

Sunroof: is it stuck?.sometimes they do stick.Other times the cables get so gummed up they just crap out.
there is a little circular Cap in the headliner,where the sunroof motor is.It takes an Allen key.See if it will move manually by using the Allen key( not sure of size).
Exhaust: I use Racing beat REVII.It is a reliable,strong,but heavy exhaust.Expensive too.
You will get other suggestions like Corksport,Apex'i,HKS,etc.
You cannot Reflash a Stock ECU..BUT you can modify the Ecu. digital tuning, inc. Better known as an RTEK Ecu..Get the 2.1 version if you go that route.Anything bigger you need a true Standalone like Haltech for example.
#4: gas filter at pump( in tank) and on car.
plugs,wires,any vacuum lines that show deterioration.Air filter,oil change with filter.
Belts.Coolant,new thermostat(get OEM not anything else).
check brakes,lines,fluid in hydraulics.
......
That is a Start to your journey.Good Luck.

 

+1 on the Racing Beat REV TII exhaust system. I love the way it looks, I love the way it sounds, and most of all... I LOVE the way it performs.

In addition to what styx has said, look into bypassing the fuel pump relay & resistor. Then rewire the fuel pump. Here's a link with a bit of information about it: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...rewire-732904/

 

Try the Allen key as mentioned. Once open, check the rubber weather stripping to see if it needs to be cleaned or replaced. Silicon spray works pretty well as a lubricant once it is cleaned. If the weather stripping isn't the problem, then unfortunately you will need to take the whole thing apart to find the problem.

The best is a custom 321 stainless steel or titanium exhaust system with mandrel bends, a high-flow cat, and a single muffler. Plan on budgeting about $3,000. If you just want a bolt-on exhaust, then Racing Beat if you like it quiet, or Apexi if you like it louder.

Ask your local tuner what he likes. Some shops will cut you a special deal for parts and tuning, so price that first before you order anything.

See the Manuals and Links section of the 2Gen RX-7 FAQ, and download the 1988 manual. The servicing and inspection checklists are at the front of the manual. You can also get a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store or on the internet.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

I highly recommend that you buy a torque wrench if you do not already have one. You can cause serious damage to this car by over-torqueing some parts, such as the thermostat cover. Chapter 30 of the manual has torque specs.

Wires don't go bad very often, so you may want to get them checked at your local auto parts store before you replace them. FYI "L" = Leading (Lower) and "T" = Trailing (Top).

Recommended fluids and replacement parts:
- Fuel: 87 octane (Use higher octane if boost is raised above the stock level or if you notice rough running)
- Fuel Filter: Any OEM style
- Brake Fluid: Castrol GT LMA
- Engine Oil: Castrol GTX (use the viscosity recommended in the manual)
- Oil Filter: Mazda
- Thermostat: Mazda
- Differential and Manual Transmission Oil: Synthetic (Popular brands are Red Line, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, and Amsoil, which can be ordered online from Mazdatrix, Racing Beat, Jegs, Summit Racing, Racer Parts Wholesale, etc.)
- Coolant: Ethylene glycol (green/yellow) mixed with distilled water as per the manual
- Spark Plugs: Spark Plugs
- Air Filter: K&N drop-in replacement filter if you plan on keeping the car mostly stock for a while, otherwise just use an inexpensive paper filter.
- Check to see if the fuel pulsation damper is leaking: Pulsation Dampers
- When I buy a used RX-7, I like to replace the oil filter pedestal o-rings. (2 needed, part #9954-10-1601). These crack with time, leaking oil on the heater hose, causing an annoying pinhole leak.
- I also like the Fumoto F-106 "Regular Valve" oil drain valve. F-106 Regular Valve
- If your plastic stereo surround is cracked and needs to be replaced, then I recommend replacing it with the more durable 89-92 part. This will also require using the 89-92 AC grill above it.

Do NOT use:
- Wheel cleaner that eats away clear coat
- Radiator "stop leak" products
- Orange/red coolant like Dex-Cool
- Aftermarket thermostats
- Spark plugs other than NGK brand
- Gasoline with more than 10% ethanol

 

Thank you everyone.

i will be starting on this list this weekend.

 

There's a lot of good info that seems to apply to me newly acquired '88 GXL. I also thank you.

 

I didn't know the TII took 87 octane, the previous owner of the car I just bought said to only put premium in it....who's right?

 

Hello! got a qustion: 87 octane? I live in Sweden and we got three alternatives wich is 95, 98 and 99(Shell vPower) octane. How high is the octane in Premium?

 

ok, so premium in the states is 93 octane. i have a n/a 88 fc and i only run that in it. it doesnt matter weather its boosted or not, the high revving of the rotory demands diffrent specs from regular piston engines, such as the oil grade is higher to be able to burn off quicker as the rotor spins, reg oil isnt made to burn off easy, so putting reg 10w30 for instance will clog it up and make try harder to burn it off. i recommend using 20/50 no matter what, and royal purple as well. i run 93 gas and 20/50 oil and my car has never run better. hope this helps. also, clean injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, and intake manifold. brake cleaner form autozone will do wonders.

 

Pretty much everything applies. The main difference is that the non-turbo engines are more particular about their exhaust components, otherwise they are too loud, lose power, or fail to operate the 6-ports.

See the owner's manual. It says 87 minimum. If the previous owner raised the boost, or if the engine is in bad shape, then higher octane may be in order. Otherwise you are just wasting your money for nothing.

The 87 octane rating is when using the American (R+M)/2 method. Europe uses Research Octane Number (RON), which unfortunately is a very poor method. See your owner's manual for the recommended fuel for your region.

 

Congrats bro I just picked up a 88 TII and many of my questions were answered here

 

Boost level is stock, but the engine does smell as if it runs rich, idles high, and has a misfire. It's got 10k on the rebuild. IDK if I would call that bad shape, but I would definitely say it's currently not running right.

 

The engine normally runs rich with the stock computer. The high idle could be from a number of things, such as TPS, BAC, idle screw, throttle stop or cable, thermowax, etc., so you can start a thread in the 2Gen section if you want to get some input from our forum mechanics (I am not a mechanic). The rotary engine normally skips a beat now and then when idling, but if it is misfiring at higher rpms then there is a problem.

Anyway, if you think the engine is not running correctly, then it is probably a good idea to stick with the higher octane fuel and try to stay off boost until you get the problem fixed.

The octane rating is just an anti-knock rating. It does not necessarily relate to power or clean burning. In fact, premium may actually have less energy content, depending on its composition. Use Top Tier fuel if you want clean burning.
Top Tier Gasoline

If your engine is in good shape and has no knocking problem, then there is no reason to spend the extra money for anti-knock fuel.

Somebody gave you some bad info. Rotary engines are just fine with 10W-30 as long as you follow the guidance in the factory service manual or owner's manual, although I prefer 10W-40 for better all-season performance. Thicker oil like 20W-50 is great for hotter environments like your region, but it will cause premature wear if used in cold weather without a pre-heater.

 

Got the sunroof workng.ordered ngk plugs.

Where can i find oem front fenders ? Or oem style

 

Search locally in your regional forum. -> NE For Sale/ Wanted/ Classifieds

Check junk yards in your area, too. IF you can find an FC in any of them...

 

Yes, the club is is an almost infinite source of parts, and using the club for this gets you in contact with some very stand up knowledgeable people. I live right across the river from ohio in WV. Not real close to you but in the future I might have some parts you may need later.

 

thanks man! yea im sure i will need parts soon enough, already love the platform

 

Congrats! I also have a turbo II. good luck, seems like you are getting great feedback.

 

Thanks! People are helpful on here which is nice.