Ist this normal on a 87' Second Gen
06-01-13, 10:55 PM
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Ist this normal on a 87' Second Gen
I have being reading this forums for over 3 yrs but recently decide to joined, never had the need to post any question because I used the search button. and most of my question or problem had being previous solve. But now I came across a 50/50 response and need help from the old timers pro. Here goes my technical question
I live in NY the weather has being hot lately and I have taken out my 1987 Second Gen. GLS RX7 100% stock for a ride and my temp. gauge shows at 1/2 I do not get any buzz sound nor any dummy lights come on. I have read on some post that state a normal running temperature (either cold, hot or extremely hot) for a second Gen. its ~1/4. Some other have post that running their car at the same scenario their gauges had reach 1/2. My question its normal for a Second Gen to hit 1/2 of the temp. gauge?
Some info about my Rx7:
Have done the champing test, there's no bubbles, neither when i fill to the top and crank the engine the antifreeze does not over flow.
Drained all the previously antifreeze and put a 70/30 mix
I have a New radiator (aftermarket)
replaced all the hoses (all oem from Mazda dealer)
all new caps rated at 13 lbs (oem from Mazda dealer)
New thermostat & gasket,all the sensor related to water temp which inlcude 1 behind the alternator, 2 on the radiator, and 1 below the oil filter. (oem from mazda dealer)
Inspected the water pump still good jut replaced the gasket (also there's no liking from the water pump hole which is an indication of bad water pump)
I have read the aaroncake website and followed his troubleshooting by checking if there's any cold spot within the radiator which will indicate a clogged radiator as well all the hoses (all tough everything is new I just want to be sure I dont miss anything)
The only piece I havent replace and still original is the fan clutch, but before I replace it I want to know if this temp. reading are normal under hot weather temp.
I live in NY the weather has being hot lately and I have taken out my 1987 Second Gen. GLS RX7 100% stock for a ride and my temp. gauge shows at 1/2 I do not get any buzz sound nor any dummy lights come on. I have read on some post that state a normal running temperature (either cold, hot or extremely hot) for a second Gen. its ~1/4. Some other have post that running their car at the same scenario their gauges had reach 1/2. My question its normal for a Second Gen to hit 1/2 of the temp. gauge?
Some info about my Rx7:
Have done the champing test, there's no bubbles, neither when i fill to the top and crank the engine the antifreeze does not over flow.
Drained all the previously antifreeze and put a 70/30 mix
I have a New radiator (aftermarket)
replaced all the hoses (all oem from Mazda dealer)
all new caps rated at 13 lbs (oem from Mazda dealer)
New thermostat & gasket,all the sensor related to water temp which inlcude 1 behind the alternator, 2 on the radiator, and 1 below the oil filter. (oem from mazda dealer)
Inspected the water pump still good jut replaced the gasket (also there's no liking from the water pump hole which is an indication of bad water pump)
I have read the aaroncake website and followed his troubleshooting by checking if there's any cold spot within the radiator which will indicate a clogged radiator as well all the hoses (all tough everything is new I just want to be sure I dont miss anything)
The only piece I havent replace and still original is the fan clutch, but before I replace it I want to know if this temp. reading are normal under hot weather temp.
Last edited by Srgt; 06-01-13 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Specify model and stock info.
06-01-13, 10:58 PM
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06-01-13, 11:08 PM
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In regard to the aftermarket I saw a post about it and it will required some drilling and tapping into the sensor behind the alternator am I on the right track or way off if so can you point me to the right direction. Thanks
06-01-13, 11:20 PM
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the sensor at the back of the pump should not be touched as it tells the ECU what temp is engine is.
Now,there are lots of places you can put a sensor without drilling.
On a hose..rad hose,heater hose Hose going to the TB,etc.
they make Temp sender adapters to go in the Rad hose,the Only drawback being that you do not get the accurate temp reading until after the thermostat opens up.
The TII thermo-neck has a place for a Sender...but then again same thing,but you just need a brass adapter and you are done.
...
NOTE: if you look closely at this pic of my engine, will see the Upper rad hose has a sender adapter spliced into it..also that the Thermo-neck has a temp sensor for my gauge.
Now,there are lots of places you can put a sensor without drilling.
On a hose..rad hose,heater hose Hose going to the TB,etc.
they make Temp sender adapters to go in the Rad hose,the Only drawback being that you do not get the accurate temp reading until after the thermostat opens up.
The TII thermo-neck has a place for a Sender...but then again same thing,but you just need a brass adapter and you are done.
...
NOTE: if you look closely at this pic of my engine, will see the Upper rad hose has a sender adapter spliced into it..also that the Thermo-neck has a temp sensor for my gauge.
06-02-13, 12:10 AM
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With the engine hot...
1. Park the car with the engine running and set the parking brake.
2. Open the hood.
3. While watching the fan, shut off the engine and see if the fan keeps moving. If the fan keeps spinning, then the clutch is totally shot. If the fan stops, then go to the next step.
4. With the engine bay hot and the engine off, try turning the fan with your hand. If there is little to no resistance, then the clutch needs to be replaced. If there is a lot of resistance, then go to the next step.
5. Let the car cool down completely. Then try turning the fan with your hand when it is cold. If it turns easily, then it is fine. If there is a lot of resistance, then something is jamming up the clutch.
1. Park the car with the engine running and set the parking brake.
2. Open the hood.
3. While watching the fan, shut off the engine and see if the fan keeps moving. If the fan keeps spinning, then the clutch is totally shot. If the fan stops, then go to the next step.
4. With the engine bay hot and the engine off, try turning the fan with your hand. If there is little to no resistance, then the clutch needs to be replaced. If there is a lot of resistance, then go to the next step.
5. Let the car cool down completely. Then try turning the fan with your hand when it is cold. If it turns easily, then it is fine. If there is a lot of resistance, then something is jamming up the clutch.
06-02-13, 12:31 AM
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the sensor at the back of the pump should not be touched as it tells the ECU what temp is engine is.
Now,there are lots of places you can put a sensor without drilling.
On a hose..rad hose,heater hose Hose going to the TB,etc.
they make Temp sender adapters to go in the Rad hose,the Only drawback being that you do not get the accurate temp reading until after the thermostat opens up.
The TII thermo-neck has a place for a Sender...but then again same thing,but you just need a brass adapter and you are done.
...
NOTE: if you look closely at this pic of my engine, will see the Upper rad hose has a sender adapter spliced into it..also that the Thermo-neck has a temp sensor for my gauge.
Now,there are lots of places you can put a sensor without drilling.
On a hose..rad hose,heater hose Hose going to the TB,etc.
they make Temp sender adapters to go in the Rad hose,the Only drawback being that you do not get the accurate temp reading until after the thermostat opens up.
The TII thermo-neck has a place for a Sender...but then again same thing,but you just need a brass adapter and you are done.
...
NOTE: if you look closely at this pic of my engine, will see the Upper rad hose has a sender adapter spliced into it..also that the Thermo-neck has a temp sensor for my gauge.
I will follow Evil Aviator steps first if everything is good with all his steps and I still get the same result 1/2 temp. Gauge reading then I will install the aftermarket gauge.
Its funny when I was ordering the parts I saw a gauge for that spot but according to the ordering manual only the A/T version uses a gauge in there (if I come across the pic I will post it). Good to know that i can tap there thanks for the info and I will keep updating as I go
06-02-13, 12:53 AM
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Also another question I have the same setup as you do misterstyx69 a double pulley, now I had install new belts (Gates XL 10A0815) x2 but the one that is closes to water pump is a bit too loose which one are you using?
Here's a picture of my sorry she looks dirty and filthy I haven't wash it yet as I am working a lot on her
Here's a picture of my sorry she looks dirty and filthy I haven't wash it yet as I am working a lot on her
Last edited by Srgt; 06-02-13 at 12:59 AM. Reason: update link to pic.
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06-02-13, 09:30 AM
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Link doesn't work for me.
..
I use the same size belts.. Times TWO...after all they run the same stuff twice...Main,water pump and alt.
If you had the belt that ran the Air pump on and didn't change that,then that belt would be longer.
I have an FD alternator on,so I try to get as close to the engine so I can have "more adjustment".I found that the stock one is real close to maxxing out when you need to tighten it.You can always measure with a string around the pulleys and then go to the parts store and get that size..been there done that.
..
Now,The car that you see had an N/A engine in it,so I know the Gauge would go up to half.
Actually it is still fresh in my mind.
We were at a Ottawa car Meet going to a Guy's house and we were all on the Main Hwy.(417)..I had the car in 3rd for "maximum Thrust"..lol,,as we were touring with FD's.Had to have a little extra "uumph"!!!
The car ran a bit Warm(what YOU would call warm..1/2 way)..
I encountered that often,but the Engine ran perfectly until I eventually swapped 2 years later to what Monstrosity you see in the bay now..It is Still running I hear.
..
I use the same size belts.. Times TWO...after all they run the same stuff twice...Main,water pump and alt.
If you had the belt that ran the Air pump on and didn't change that,then that belt would be longer.
I have an FD alternator on,so I try to get as close to the engine so I can have "more adjustment".I found that the stock one is real close to maxxing out when you need to tighten it.You can always measure with a string around the pulleys and then go to the parts store and get that size..been there done that.
..
Now,The car that you see had an N/A engine in it,so I know the Gauge would go up to half.
Actually it is still fresh in my mind.
We were at a Ottawa car Meet going to a Guy's house and we were all on the Main Hwy.(417)..I had the car in 3rd for "maximum Thrust"..lol,,as we were touring with FD's.Had to have a little extra "uumph"!!!
The car ran a bit Warm(what YOU would call warm..1/2 way)..
I encountered that often,but the Engine ran perfectly until I eventually swapped 2 years later to what Monstrosity you see in the bay now..It is Still running I hear.
06-02-13, 02:58 PM
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With the engine hot...
1. Park the car with the engine running and set the parking brake.
2. Open the hood.
3. While watching the fan, shut off the engine and see if the fan keeps moving. If the fan keeps spinning, then the clutch is totally shot. If the fan stops, then go to the next step.
4. With the engine bay hot and the engine off, try turning the fan with your hand. If there is little to no resistance, then the clutch needs to be replaced. If there is a lot of resistance, then go to the next step.
5. Let the car cool down completely. Then try turning the fan with your hand when it is cold. If it turns easily, then it is fine. If there is a lot of resistance, then something is jamming up the clutch.
1. Park the car with the engine running and set the parking brake.
2. Open the hood.
3. While watching the fan, shut off the engine and see if the fan keeps moving. If the fan keeps spinning, then the clutch is totally shot. If the fan stops, then go to the next step.
4. With the engine bay hot and the engine off, try turning the fan with your hand. If there is little to no resistance, then the clutch needs to be replaced. If there is a lot of resistance, then go to the next step.
5. Let the car cool down completely. Then try turning the fan with your hand when it is cold. If it turns easily, then it is fine. If there is a lot of resistance, then something is jamming up the clutch.
4) I made a mark with a sharpie and when I turned it only went from 12' clock to 6' clock
5) when engine complete cool the fan spin easy I will say between 3 to 5 complete cycle depending the force I apply
I guess the fan clutch is good?
Thanks for your help.
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