snowdoody

I'm having my injectors cleaned after o rings went bad. Since the 'top end' is apart what else should I replace?

Prolly going to wrap intake pipes, do they make vacuum hose kits for all the hoses? And what emissions stuff can I eliminate?

Plus anything I should test while the 13b is missing its head.

Thanks guys

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It is always missing it's "head" since it didn't come with one in the first place!.
You want Piston Engines...Aisle #4 near the Garbage bags!
Tons of threads on Emissions removal.

snowdoody

Alright friend thanks and I meant the figurative head. I'll take the bags instead

Evil Aviator

You should replace the manifold gasket with a new one. Also, check the rubber EFI hoses for cracks, and replace any EFI hose that looks even remotely bad. I would also consider replacing the fuel pressure regulator and pulsation damper if they are old and crusty. Wrapping the intake pipes is a waste of time. I would not remove any of the emissions items because doing so will not significantly increase the power, will not save any significant weight, will increase the chance of getting a vacuum leak, and could make the car drive worse. I am not aware of any vacuum hose kits, but you can buy vacuum hose sets in several different colors and they are easy to cut to length.

snowdoody

Ok good advice. I have done some digging and u r right, I'm leaving all emissions. A vacuum hose kit would make it too easy anyways.

Ya my gasket fell apart when I took it off so yup.
Ahh the wisdom on this forum.

pursuit1

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to build a list of things I'll do to prepare for when I do injectors.

All gaskets obviously. Vac hoses. Pulsation dampener. A few coolant hoses. Clean, dielectric grease all hard to reach connections. Clean and replace grounds as needed. Port actuators and sleeves. Header manifold / exhaust gaskets. OMP seals and lines. Generally degrease and scrub.

There's probably more I'll come across once in there but that's what I'm trying to do.

snowdoody

My vacuum hoses are like plastic right now. Ya for now its snowing up here and my fc is sitting in my work parking lot. I'll do vacuum lines, fuel lines, dielectric grease (thanks for reminding me), pro inj cleaning, then the gaskets.

I'll do my best to record all the hose sizes. And post them. At least the ones involved with the TB, UIM, and dynamic chamber.

In the cold it took me almost 2 hrs to get all 4 injectors out. Now I know how it goes and a better understanding of the workings, I respect the Mazda engineers more. And my car

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Tip:
If you replace vacuum lines in the Cold,they are gonna come off like "snap".
The trick to put them on is to have them HOT(well warm),like even body temp.So if you have to put a roll of vacuum hose under your jacket so it remains pliable it will be a lot easier to work with.

snowdoody

Ok thanks and some broke too but I of coarse will replace them. Smart idea��

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Bravo for doing thorough maintenance!

If they were the original gaskets, the spray gasket remover is going to be your new best friend. But I wouldn't suggest using it in an enclosed garage for very long.

Here's a link to the hose sizes and lengths needed. I think the only oddball sizes are the air pump hoses and the BAC, which aren't on the list.
Silicone Vacuum Hose

Also, the #1 coolant hose to replace is the heater hose below the oil filter. It's the most failure prone one.

Evil Aviator

Just to add to that, the heater hose is prone to failure when it is oil-soaked. This happens due to cracked o-rings in the oil filter pedestal, or when you spill oil on it while changing the filter. Therefore, it is a good idea to replace the two o-rings prior to installing a new hose, and when changing the filter you can let it drain by using a hammer and nail to poke a vent hole in the top and/or use some aluminum foil to shield the hose from drips.

snowdoody

Speed16 and evil good point I will do that too. And look at relocating those and the wiring so future oil changes don't f*** that up

For future searches on this topic the parts to replace/check are as follows:
•UIM -LIM gasket
•Fuel Pressure regulator
•pulsation dampener
•oil filter pedestal orings
•injector orings
•fuel lines
•coolant/vac/OMP hoses as needed
•grounds
•dielectric grease the connections

snowdoody

After research the PD seems to be optional. I think maybe fuel injectors were a new thing and Mazda was worried they would break if they didn't have a PD. Here's a link on the PD topic https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/bad-pulsation-dampener-936800/