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but before that the car would only run for a certain amount of time could the power cut off
at a certain time till it no longer gets power through that connnecter
How long would it run? And in the future you need to check things as advised followed by supplying the results and then ask another question instead of a barrage of questions and no testing.
You have a circuit opening relay which powers the fuel circuit. It is located under the dash to the right of the steering column. It is Yellow and Black. The plug itself has 5 wires. The top row far right wire is Blue/Red. W/key to start this Blue/Red wire should have close to 12 volts. Does it? W/key to on and the AFM flapper door opened the wire should have close to 12 volts again. Does it?
Sorry just have many questions I tested the plug
By itself and it gets 12 v
tested it with the afm which is getting 4.9 v
It got juust under 12 it went 11.9 to 12 then back down again and just went between those numbers
Sorry just have many questions I tested the plug
By itself and it gets 12 v
tested it with the afm which is getting 4.9 v
It got juust under 12 it went 11.9 to 12 then back down again and just went between those numbers
You supplied three test results it appears when you were asked to conduct two tests. You need to rephrase your previous post such that it makes sense.
w/key set to on it tested at 11.9 to 12 but fluctuated
If the Blue/Red wire had close to 12 volts w/key to on and AFM flapper door open and also w/key to start then the fuel pump should be receiving power under both scenarios. One thing though, is with key to start the voltage should be pulled down somewhat because the car uses a lot of amperage/voltage to activate the starter so your number w/key to start is a bit suspect. You could always verify fuel flow under either condition by disconnecting the fuel feed line to the engine and place the hose in a jug and see if you get flowage.
And when you tested the primary injectors were they still connected to the fuel rail and fuel came out when you triggered them?
And will the car briefly start if you sprayed 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the air intake?
this may be going off topic one thing though the car stays with the key is stuck at "acc" doesnt go to "lock" i dont know if this makes an impact and the car and this may be something i should have added in the beginning sorry but
but due to a battery relocation the car has power switch that powers the car but only seems to power lights i still have to set the car to the on position- the car came this way
when i cranked the engine i did hear the fuel pump turn on
i will try the feed into a jug
i took them out they were not on the fuel rail
it has been started with the starting fluid briefly
You cannot test them unless they have fuel feeding to them. Your thread was initially about are they clogged. I'm thinking the FPR you installed is your chief problem.
If the key flips back to the on position after being released from the start position then that is not an issue as far as the cylinder being stuck at ACC.
Not sure what you are stating about it only powers the lights........
the the second part doesnt affect any of the processes ive done then ill leave it at that
ok then i will test them with the fuel rail on as the next step and come back with those results
Remember, the primary injectors are the injectors used to start and idle the car and not the secondaries. You pull the primaries and place the secondaries in their place if you wanted to test them.
You can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your local auto parts store and check the fuel pressure against the numbers stated in the FSM if need be (if dead headed the gauge would read between 70-90 psi if I remember correctly).
real quick i have a guage that reads mmhg but also guages fuel psi although it might only be for carburetors
is that usable or should i just got to the auto part store
I would think that fuel pressure is fuel pressure so if it reads psi then it should not pose a problem. You can also place the gauge in line between the fuel filter and the engine and w/key to start it would read close to 35-40 psi (might want to check the FSM for the exact numbers).
a gauge that reads vacuum won't be proper for reading high pressure fuel pressure, perhaps a low pressure carbed fuel line but not a fuel injection system.
i checked the injectors on the fuel rail and the injectors pulse
they pulsed at almost the same time one was a bit behind than the other
i also noticed that the gas that i collected was not very clean there were little bits of debris in there
If you have debris then cleaning out the fuel system is needed. If you clean out the fuel tank it would be a good thing to replace the sock that is part of the fuel pump and then replace the fuel filter too. And obviously the injectors need to be professionally cleaned by a professional.
no, water will rust the tank. if you need a solvent, ethanol works well(which does absorb water, so it shouldn't be left to sit in the tank for a long time).
