Apex Squeal

So if you all had to choose some things to improve on the FD, without necessarily just increasing boost or putting a big single on, what would you do? Items I'm thinking of would increase reliability, utility, response, etc.

So far what I have done:

-- SMIC, radiator, dual oil coolers, downpipe, catback
-- Coilovers, strut bars
-- 17" RPF1s w/ 255/17s all around

Next up:

-- Sway bars F & R w/ reinforcement bar and chromoly mounts
-- Bi-Xenon HID projector headlights

What else can be done to actually *improve* the car?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Summer tires.. if you ahvent already ,

since you are in cali i dont know what is allowed LOL

also AI injection meth/ water injection .

nasty nick

I'd do some kind of fuel management upgrade to make sure your not running lean. Upgraded ECU?

sillyme

see that you have a radiator and oil cooler already. i would suggest a FMIC instead of the small SMIC. that little thing will heatsoak really fast. then a good engine management

red_devil7

iTrader: (2)

Aftermarket engine management like an Apex'i PFC to handle the extra air flow. Maybe replace the vacuum hoses with silicone hoses if you haven't already.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

i'm not a big fan of FMIC unless you concentrate alot on drag racing .

I did a FMIC but my car did not enjoy it . I regret doing it .

as for the aftermarket engine management systems , this is why I said I dont know what is allowed in Cali ...

I know you need to unpin , some emissions wires for the PFC to work .

and maybe a reflashed ECU might work , you can just switch it to stock ecu when ti comes to emissions time. and drive carefully

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Good call. I run 17" PF01SS +38 for 255/40's all-around on Ground Control adjust. coilovers and Bilsteins. No fender rolling necessary and the 17's help keep decent ride quality. Otherwise, IF the car is solely a street car and you're willing to stay with stock tire size, the stock suspension wasn't too bad IMO
Unless you track or autocross with 'R' compounds, the stock sway bars are fine. Likewise the swaybar mounts. And fancy HID projectors are personal taste/appearance item IMO. If you like them...fine. But I've found a set of Silverstars are more than adequate on the street.
*Silicone vacuum hoses but only when you have trouble or otherwise have to mess with the OEM hoses. If they're not leaking, leave them alone.
*Stainless OMP lines, but again, only if you have to disturb the OEM lines.
*'Efini 'Y' pipe (Mazda re-design of the failure prone coupler and it flows better to boot)
*Hi-flow cat
*Wrapped or heat-coated downpipe
*After-market motor mounts in a durometer and design that doesn't increase NVH. (I run Noltecs but there are others).
*Auxillary Injection (doesn't have to be sophisticated or expensive. Simple is good for stock boost levels)
*Window tint
*I'd recommend a PFC and deleting ALL emissions, except I see you live in California.
*Quality synthetic gear lube in transmission and differential

Apex Squeal

Sgtblue:

I don't think I adequately explained what I meant exactly in my original post. Areas we acknowledge as particular weak points on the car (whether mechanical, electrical, or even cosmetic) are what I'd like to improve upon or replace if necessary.
The headlights for example, are widely regarded as terrible and I can personally attest to that. I figured the HIDs from sakebombgarage are probably the best replacement you can get.
The radiator, oil coolers and intercooler are also recognized weak spots. The suspension...well, maybe I just wanted to go a little crazy with it

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Terrible in what way? They may not look cool as HIDs and impress, but IMO the Silverstars are outstanding. And I didn't have to jack with OEM wiring. "Widely regarded"? Maybe by the aftermarket suppliers who want to sell them or the rationalizations of those who bought them. Again, if it's the look you're after fine. I understand that. But my experience is different than yours.
I agree with the radiator, but maybe not for the reasons you might think. The OEM radiator was IMO pretty damn efficient. If you have a chance, compare fine density to even the most expensive aftermarket and you'll see what I mean. It's big downfall was the plastic end-tanks that can fail with time. The increased capacity that you typically see with aftermarket doesn't hurt, although it usually comes with fitment issues of some degree.
Intercoolers, I agree. But again, for a street car I'd stay with a SMIC. Front mounts are NOT ideal. Expensive; a lot plumbing, fabbing; compromising crash worthiness. They're also exposed to road debris and slow animals. But especially they hinder effective engine cooling. You can get decent IAT's with some of the SMIC's out there.
For a streeted car there is absolutely nothing wrong with the DUAL oil cooler set of the 'R' models. If you track, maybe the bigger Mocals etc. might be a choice, but they're only as good as the ducting.
And as far as suspension....not a thing wrong with "going crazy" once in a while. Most of us are enthusiasts and know exactly what you mean.

PRLmotorsports

have you ever used a koyo and had trouble with your ac can fitting back in or your fuse box?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^Been a few/alot of years, but IIRC I had to reverse the lower mounts to get it to sit down lower. FWIW

fd3661

Turbo timer, downpipe, better more accurate temperature gauge, always use oem oil filters or puralator pure one,

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^Agree about the temp gauge. Forgot that earlier. It's been so long that I sort of assume everyone has them...along with a boost gauge. But Turbo timers have little to no use on the FD. The turbos are water-cooled.

fd3661

Really water cooled so I have a turbo timer on my car for nothing? dam haha

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Yep...if they're stock twins, pretty much..

fd3661

Good thing i didn't buy the turbo timer came with the car haha