joelkarlonas

Hey guys basicly stock 1993 efini FD with katayama racing ecu, feed turbo downpipe to full re exhaust, apexi intakes, with mint rebuild from rx7 specialists in calgary with race apex seals.

so far ive put on 700km or so and did the first oil change at 550km,

kept it around 2,000rpm for the first 500km
then boosted a little no more than 0bar not sure if i can boost more or less i wanna make the engine last how should i keep doing this for the remainder of the break in???

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

ask your engine builder.

zettairyouiki

Philosophies vary, but the one I tend to follow is after warming up the engine, vary the rpm and try to get as much load as possible with maximum engine braking. The load is to make sure that the seals get enough strain to seat properly and don't end up inadequately seated when the freshly machined surfaces fail to sufficiently rub against each other and match microscopically. Engine braking is to produce rotor cavity vacuum to flush out tiny metal particles and dirty 'break in' oil. Varied rpm is to make sure that the break in process doesn't end prematurely.

I'll admit this is mostly from experience with boinger engines, but I wouldn't expect a rotary to be much different.
That said, do ask your rebuilder. If they have a strong opinion, do what they say.

streetfighter

I'm about to get my engine started for the first time after rebuild.. And I was told to take small trips and like the others said, get as much load as possible..
I don't think there is a "wrong" way to do this... everybody has different opinions..

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

every rebuild requires different scenarios. it depends on the parts reused and the apex seals mainly. some engines will be broken in virtually in hours where some will take 1000-2000 miles if the housings are worn and the seals a more brittle material.

as said, ask your builder.


if you want the most difinitive answer your engine can only tell you when it is broken in and no one else. compression test the engine now and every 500km, once your compression levels stop rising then the seals are as broken in as they will ever be. change the oil and then you're good to go.

i never recommend lugging the engine too severely like 2000 RPM limits, i say 4000 RPMs and limit the engine to only a few PSI of boost.... that just promotes carbon buildup. i also never recommend short trips, i recommend LONG trips. i have had MANY customers take a 500+ mile trip home from picking up a car or driving it a long distance to break it in. short trips aren't a bad idea but initially you should run the engine for a bit just after starting it.

joelkarlonas

Thanks guys. I let it warm up till the coolant gauge stops moving or the fans kick in then drive under 2k rpm and then under 3k for the drive around the city. For those 70kph roads and ring road I stay in 3rd or 2nd and let the revs slowly make it to 4k rpm max and only -.2 to 0 to .2 max bar so far. Usually I'll play with 0bar till 3,500 - 4,000 rpm. I did my first change at 500km and I have about 1,000km on the engine now. I try to drive the car for 30mins every night. I have a completely stock rebuilt with mint housings and rotors. And race apex seals. I notice the oil pressure gauge is sometimes wacky as well. I need new plugs since I used my old ones from the old engine. Also my builder said under 5000rpm and I can boost whatever but not to go over half throttle. Another friend who has a lot of work done to his FC said no boost at all. So I'm just curious about that.

Wms10th

iTrader: (2)

I am at 1800 miles on a new engine. I have new seals and housings. I kept it under 4,000 and 0 psi for the 1st 600, then changed the oil. Then I would rev up to 5500 and 3-5 psi until 1500 miles. I now run up to 10 psi and 6,000 rpms. I drive 60 miles a day to work, daily, so this is mostly freeway that I drive between 70-90 mph sometimes.

I have had to reset my idle speed 4 times because it kept speeding up, but is pretty steady now. I plan to call it "broken in" at 2,000 miles, when I will change the oil again.

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

I think 2000 miles is about the time when an engine is finally broken in. My rotary guy says, "get on it. If it's gonna break, it's gonna break." That's easy for him to say because his labor is free when he does all his own engines. Now when he does mine, well, that's 90.00 bucks and hour so after I got mine done, I drove it 500 miles, no boost, keeping it under 4000 RPM. Changed the oil. I drove it easy but after 1000 miles I started boosting it. Keeping it 5-7 pounds until 2000 miles. I will change the oil and plugs then and then "get on it." Having some idle issues too but waiting until everything seats before working on that.

Dude13450

I'm not sure if rotaries differ from piston engines when it comes to break ins, but one thing I am told is to never keep it at a certain RPM. You want the RPMs to fluctuate for the first 100 miles if I remember correctly.

pnoyfd3s

HIguys! my engine is being rebuilt by lucky 7 racing and cant wait to have it done and drive it. Thanks to fris of lucky 7 racing a very nice guy to talk to.

yan

A def must is warm up / cool down...

johnson_racing

Drive it with ease. No gear slamming!