Dsm_Dustin

Hey guys i'm Dustin i just picked up a RX7 it didnt run when i bought it, i put a new fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires and she fired right up the problem is when i first start the car it runs good for about 30 seconds and then i have no power i cant give it past 1/4 throttle or it floods it self out the weird thing is if i shut the car off wait 20-30 sec and start it again it has power for 30 sec again. there has been NO mods done to the car and its a 13b non turbo automatic. thanks in advance for all the help guys!

Dustin

Dias_Stronomy

have you checked for vaccum leaks in your hoses?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

What model RX7?

Have you changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter, oil?

PS - Use a better title!

Dias_Stronomy

as gracer7 said year and model would help. also a further note i dont know if its been sitting for a while but if it has i'd drain the gas tank and change the fuel filter. could be gummed up with who knows what. To me since it runs it really wouldn't be a timming matter although i cant hear it running to be sure. So to me it would either be an Air or Fuel problem.

Dsm_Dustin

Hey sorry. well i jsut ran a compression test and the first rotor jump to 60 psi then falls back to 0 right away? so im guessing bad apex seal? and its a GXL its just really weird how it has full power for about 30 sec?

Dias_Stronomy

so let me get this right. Your first test you got 60psi, reset it and then you cranked the engine to do it a second time around and got 0psi?

Dsm_Dustin

no soon as it cranks the gauge shoots to about 60 psi but drops RIGHT after it cranks over.

Dsm_Dustin

it just dont make sense how i can punch it at first for about 20 seconds then have no power after that and cant go past 1/4 throttle? ive tried to research this and i found nothing. anyone have this problem ever? maybe some kinda sensor?

Dias_Stronomy

I've asked a couple of my friends today for you on this one. They pointed two more things out to me. The veins might be getting worn, apex seal is getting ready to give (-shrugs- i don't really know on that part but I'm going to go with it), OR it is your Crank Sensor.

I'd start on your Crank Sensor and see if it's working properly. Then mess w/ the more expensive internal stuff.

calpatriot

Check for trouble codes. (You can make an S4 code checker for $3, see teamfc3s.org; for an S5, you can get it to flash codes on the mil light.)
Check the TPS for resistance values within specs; lack of dropoouts throughout its range; and then adjust it for 1k ohm at idle at temp
Find the online FSM in the FAQ section. Find the listing in ch 4 of what the voltages should be on each of the pins of the ECU. Pull up the carpet on the right side, get access to the ECU, backprobe every pin and measure the voltage there; compare with those published in the FSM. An out of range voltage may lead you to the problem.

Dsm_Dustin

Well i will definitely try the crank sensor first. there is a CEL on my friend owns a shop and he scanned the computer and he couldnt get any codes? how do i know if i have a S4 or S5? and the computer is located on the passenger side under the carpet? thanks for all the help guys i'll try all of that today!

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the yr model will determine series. how long has it been sitting? chances r the injectors need cleaning. but first thing is to find out what the code is.

Dsm_Dustin

So should i try the crank sensor first?

Dias_Stronomy

do that first...checking the codes will not only show you what else is wrong but the crank sensor should come up in the codes if it is bad.