Help!! Stop accelerating at 4500rpm
Help!! Stop accelerating at 4500rpm
Hi, I just bought 1997 rx7 fd3s and I'm new to rotary. Hope someone can help me out here. This is the 3rd day I'm driving the car and it was alright until recently, when I accelerated the car from first gear to second gear,it stopped/stucked acclerating at 4500rpm with second gear. What is wrong with this? But when I accelerated slowly, it can go past 4500rpm. Seem fine on other gears. Can someone help me out here. I know nothing bout rotary. Thx guys
Hi, I just bought 1997 rx7 fd3s and I'm new to rotary. Hope someone can help me out here. This is the 3rd day I'm driving the car and it was alright until recently, when I accelerated the car from first gear to second gear,it stopped/stucked acclerating at 4500rpm with second gear. What is wrong with this? But when I accelerated slowly, it can go past 4500rpm. Seem fine on other gears. Can someone help me out here. I know nothing bout rotary. Thx guys
Damn sounds like your tranny is slowly going out. Well at least just second gear. You're probably going to have to have it rebuilt soon or just replace it. The only other thing I can see it being is your ECU's mapping. I have a '93 FD and its doing the same thing but it does it in any gear not just 2nd. The guy I bought it from said that it hasn't had a tune and has been topping out at 4300 RPM since it had its rebuild, street port & polish, and some other performance mods done to it. So he said it just needs a good tune so I have a dyno-tune setup for it on the 10th of Aug. I'll let you know if it does any good if you're interested. Good luck with yours man.
Damn sounds like your tranny is slowly going out. Well at least just second gear. You're probably going to have to have it rebuilt soon or just replace it. The only other thing I can see it being is your ECU's mapping. I have a '93 FD and its doing the same thing but it does it in any gear not just 2nd. The guy I bought it from said that it hasn't had a tune and has been topping out at 4300 RPM since it had its rebuild, street port & polish, and some other performance mods done to it. So he said it just needs a good tune so I have a dyno-tune setup for it on the 10th of Aug. I'll let you know if it does any good if you're interested. Good luck with yours man.
Did you get it tuned on the dyno or did you just get a dyno run? If you got it tuned and it is a fuel issue then the person doing it should have seen that on the map and been able to re-map it so it would stop doing that. That's why I'm sorry to say but it honestly sound like an issue with your tranny. I could be your clutch plate all the way up to 2nd and 5th gear. Otherwise you should be having problems in each gear at the same RPM and then I'd be more inclined to think it was a fuel issue. Hopefully I just don't know what I'm talking about but it really seems like the tranny to me. Sorry to be the barer of bad news man.
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It is manual transmission.. it happens from 2nd gear to 3rd and so on but not on 1st gear. I think I need to clean the fuel filter, check the fuel injector, regulator and fuel line. What do you think? I got it tuned on dyno.
Did you get it tuned on the dyno or did you just get a dyno run? If you got it tuned and it is a fuel issue then the person doing it should have seen that on the map and been able to re-map it so it would stop doing that. That's why I'm sorry to say but it honestly sound like an issue with your tranny. I could be your clutch plate all the way up to 2nd and 5th gear. Otherwise you should be having problems in each gear at the same RPM and then I'd be more inclined to think it was a fuel issue. Hopefully I just don't know what I'm talking about but it really seems like the tranny to me. Sorry to be the barer of bad news man.
Well just because it will still accel threw 4500rpm when you accel slowly doesn't mean that its not a tranny issue. it just means that its not completely gone out yet. It could just be slipping in the gears and slowly going bad. See when you put more torque on it when you are accelerating quickly it will slip if the gears are worn and when you accel slowly it won't slip as much because there is much less torque on it. It could be the clutch plate that's slipping instead of the tranny gears and in that case it would be much easier/cheaper to just replace that. I would definitely replace the fuel filter first either way, use some fuel additives to try and clean out your fuel rail, also replace your spark plugs if you haven't already. If that doesn't work maybe look at replacing your clutch plate and if it still continues after all that I really don't see any other way to go. I will however, talk to the guy I have tuning my car next week just to make sure. Good luck.
I just ordered new spark plugs, a fuel filter, and a K&N oil filter from www.car-stuff.com for about $95 shipped. If you haven't replaced this stuff since you bought I would definitely flush your radiator, change your oil, plugs, filters, tranny fluids, differential fluids, etc etc etc. Even if the previous owner said he had recently done these things I would do them again just to put my mind at ease. Its just a good practice to do with used vehicles to ensure they run properly.
Well just because it will still accel threw 4500rpm when you accel slowly doesn't mean that its not a tranny issue. it just means that its not completely gone out yet. It could just be slipping in the gears and slowly going bad. See when you put more torque on it when you are accelerating quickly it will slip if the gears are worn and when you accel slowly it won't slip as much because there is much less torque on it. It could be the clutch plate that's slipping instead of the tranny gears and in that case it would be much easier/cheaper to just replace that. I would definitely replace the fuel filter first either way, use some fuel additives to try and clean out your fuel rail, also replace your spark plugs if you haven't already. If that doesn't work maybe look at replacing your clutch plate and if it still continues after all that I really don't see any other way to go. I will however, talk to the guy I have tuning my car next week just to make sure. Good luck.
i would say that it is the tranny though and if it was automatic then i would definitely say its the tranny just cause the autos have 2 sets of gears and there's solenoids that engage and disengage to engage your tranny in the right gear. the 1st set of gears operates the 1st and 3rd gear and the second set operates the 2nd and 4th gears
hopefully its something small or just your clutch slipping.
good luck and sorry if that was confusing
vacuum hose leak possibly, you don't get on it, it doesn't build boost which doesn't cause the hose to expand creating a leak, just throwing it out there, but you should still be able to accelerate, not just plain die. the tranny is also a good idea.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
I'd start looking at fuel delivery. The secondary injectors are supposed to come on during heavy load (lots of throttle). If they aren't working properly, the fuel system won't be delivering enough gas. This explains could why there is no problem under light load because only the primaries are used. Check that they are getting 12V with the ignition on.
Fuel filters are good to replace as well. One in the engine compartment and the 'sock' on the fuel pump.
Also, do you have a boost gauge to check the boost pattern? Does it make the correct 10-8-10 boost pattern? Hopefully your shop is familiar enough with rotaries to diagnose this easily. Good Luck.
A manual transmission won't limit rpm like that. Synchros will grind when going bad. Clutches will slip causing RPM to increase, but wheel speed won't change much.
I'd start looking at fuel delivery. The secondary injectors are supposed to come on during heavy load (lots of throttle). If they aren't working properly, the fuel system won't be delivering enough gas. This explains could why there is no problem under light load because only the primaries are used. Check that they are getting 12V with the ignition on.
Fuel filters are good to replace as well. One in the engine compartment and the 'sock' on the fuel pump.
Also, do you have a boost gauge to check the boost pattern? Does it make the correct 10-8-10 boost pattern? Hopefully your shop is familiar enough with rotaries to diagnose this easily. Good Luck.
I'd start looking at fuel delivery. The secondary injectors are supposed to come on during heavy load (lots of throttle). If they aren't working properly, the fuel system won't be delivering enough gas. This explains could why there is no problem under light load because only the primaries are used. Check that they are getting 12V with the ignition on.
Fuel filters are good to replace as well. One in the engine compartment and the 'sock' on the fuel pump.
Also, do you have a boost gauge to check the boost pattern? Does it make the correct 10-8-10 boost pattern? Hopefully your shop is familiar enough with rotaries to diagnose this easily. Good Luck.
Well just because it will still accel threw 4500rpm when you accel slowly doesn't mean that its not a tranny issue. it just means that its not completely gone out yet. It could just be slipping in the gears and slowly going bad. See when you put more torque on it when you are accelerating quickly it will slip if the gears are worn and when you accel slowly it won't slip as much because there is much less torque on it. It could be the clutch plate that's slipping instead of the tranny gears and in that case it would be much easier/cheaper to just replace that. I would definitely replace the fuel filter first either way, use some fuel additives to try and clean out your fuel rail, also replace your spark plugs if you haven't already. If that doesn't work maybe look at replacing your clutch plate and if it still continues after all that I really don't see any other way to go. I will however, talk to the guy I have tuning my car next week just to make sure. Good luck.
see if they are clogged... was this car auto and swapped?
[QUOTE=Rextasee;9408127]a slipping clutch causes rpms to rise... dont secondary injectors come on @ 4500 rpm??!
see if they are clogged... was this car auto and swapped?[/QUOTE
Yep, the car was auto transmission and swapped to manual? Why?.. What was it that you mention was clogged? the secondary injectors? Are there 2 injectors? I found an rx7 fc having the same problem and the answer to it was the connection plug on the secondary injectors. Hope nothing big though.
see if they are clogged... was this car auto and swapped?[/QUOTE
Yep, the car was auto transmission and swapped to manual? Why?.. What was it that you mention was clogged? the secondary injectors? Are there 2 injectors? I found an rx7 fc having the same problem and the answer to it was the connection plug on the secondary injectors. Hope nothing big though.
Originally Posted by smog-guy707
i had the same problem about a year ago, at first i thought it was fuel cut, then i tried all the ignition components, igniter, plugs, wires coils i tried it all, it was a combo of a bad engine ground and a fucken pinched vacuum line
check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids
check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids
and also get the manuals u need.
your secondaries do come on at 4500rpm. what mods are on the car?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Good catch on the auto swap, Rextasee. FD's use different engine ECU's and wiring harnesses depending on manual or auto transmission. I don't know much about the exact swap details, but I don't know how or how skillfully your conversion was done.
Is the Check Engine Light on when you drive the car? If it is, the car may be in 'Limp Mode' which limits performance.
Just to clarify the problem: when accelerating hard at 4500 rpm, the engine will stay at 4500 rpm or the engine will rev above 4500 but the car will not increase speed?
Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge to watch the boost pattern? Stock should be 10-8-10 psi as the rpm increase. If not, this may indicate the twin turbo system and the vacuum lines.
Yes, there are 2 pairs of injectors. 2 'primary' injectors that run all the time and 2 'secondary' injectors that are only used depending on the fuel/boost map.
^If you can answer these questions, it will help narrow down the problem.
Also, how experienced are you with working on cars? I ask because some things are good to leave to an experienced shop. If you want to do it yourself or do not have a knowledgeable shop, you will have to get intimately familiar with the factory service manual.
Is the Check Engine Light on when you drive the car? If it is, the car may be in 'Limp Mode' which limits performance.
Just to clarify the problem: when accelerating hard at 4500 rpm, the engine will stay at 4500 rpm or the engine will rev above 4500 but the car will not increase speed?
Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge to watch the boost pattern? Stock should be 10-8-10 psi as the rpm increase. If not, this may indicate the twin turbo system and the vacuum lines.
Yes, there are 2 pairs of injectors. 2 'primary' injectors that run all the time and 2 'secondary' injectors that are only used depending on the fuel/boost map.
^If you can answer these questions, it will help narrow down the problem.
Also, how experienced are you with working on cars? I ask because some things are good to leave to an experienced shop. If you want to do it yourself or do not have a knowledgeable shop, you will have to get intimately familiar with the factory service manual.
Yep, the car was auto transmission and swapped to manual? Why?.. What was it that you mention was clogged? the secondary injectors? Are there 2 injectors? I found an rx7 fc having the same problem and the answer to it was the connection plug on the secondary injectors. Hope nothing big though.
mean to put this in here
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
theres the link to the manuals
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
theres the link to the manuals
There is not much mod to it. A single Garrett turbo replaced the twin, got the Haltech ECU. I think only those two main things. My secondaries do come on at 4500rpm but why doesnt my first gear encounter that problem. Only starting from the 2nd gear to 3rd,4th,5th..
Good catch on the auto swap, Rextasee. FD's use different engine ECU's and wiring harnesses depending on manual or auto transmission. I don't know much about the exact swap details, but I don't know how or how skillfully your conversion was done.
Is the Check Engine Light on when you drive the car? If it is, the car may be in 'Limp Mode' which limits performance.
Just to clarify the problem: when accelerating hard at 4500 rpm, the engine will stay at 4500 rpm or the engine will rev above 4500 but the car will not increase speed?
Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge to watch the boost pattern? Stock should be 10-8-10 psi as the rpm increase. If not, this may indicate the twin turbo system and the vacuum lines.
Yes, there are 2 pairs of injectors. 2 'primary' injectors that run all the time and 2 'secondary' injectors that are only used depending on the fuel/boost map.
^If you can answer these questions, it will help narrow down the problem.
Also, how experienced are you with working on cars? I ask because some things are good to leave to an experienced shop. If you want to do it yourself or do not have a knowledgeable shop, you will have to get intimately familiar with the factory service manual.
Is the Check Engine Light on when you drive the car? If it is, the car may be in 'Limp Mode' which limits performance.
Just to clarify the problem: when accelerating hard at 4500 rpm, the engine will stay at 4500 rpm or the engine will rev above 4500 but the car will not increase speed?
Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge to watch the boost pattern? Stock should be 10-8-10 psi as the rpm increase. If not, this may indicate the twin turbo system and the vacuum lines.
Yes, there are 2 pairs of injectors. 2 'primary' injectors that run all the time and 2 'secondary' injectors that are only used depending on the fuel/boost map.
^If you can answer these questions, it will help narrow down the problem.
Also, how experienced are you with working on cars? I ask because some things are good to leave to an experienced shop. If you want to do it yourself or do not have a knowledgeable shop, you will have to get intimately familiar with the factory service manual.
I still have the stock boost meter, never changed it. I will have the psi checked soon.





