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Help!! Stop accelerating at 4500rpm

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Old 08-07-09, 12:53 AM
  #26  
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1st gear is a very high ratio gear...1:3.483 unless im lookin at the wrong book. it wont have enough load for it to stall... your primaries alone can sustain an rpm rise on their own in 1st gear im guessing...

Last edited by Rextasee; 08-07-09 at 12:56 AM.
Old 08-07-09, 01:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Rextasee
mean to put this in here

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

theres the link to the manuals
Thanks a lot for the manual. Very useful for newbies like me who knows nothing bout rotary.
Old 08-07-09, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Rextasee
1st gear is a very high ratio gear...1:3.483 unless im lookin at the wrong book. it wont have enough load for it to stall... your primaries alone can sustain an rpm rise on their own in 1st gear im guessing...
Do you suppose i should get the fuel pump changed? Does fuel pump has anything to do with it?
Old 08-07-09, 04:14 AM
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Replacing the fuel pump and/or the fuel injector might be a good idea.
Old 08-07-09, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Stephenstarsgard
Replacing the fuel pump and/or the fuel injector might be a good idea.
Checked the fuel injectors and fuel pump. They are okay. I guess i will try replacing the fuel pump first. Is there any specific fuel pump that a rotary needs?
Old 08-07-09, 10:23 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by KKMpunkrock2011
vacuum hose leak possibly, you don't get on it, it doesn't build boost which doesn't cause the hose to expand creating a leak, just throwing it out there, but you should still be able to accelerate, not just plain die. the tranny is also a good idea.
What vacuum hose do you mean? I do not really get it. Please explain. thanks..
Old 08-07-09, 10:29 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Rextasee
thats from another post

and also get the manuals u need.

your secondaries do come on at 4500rpm. what mods are on the car?
Originally Posted by smog-guy707
i had the same problem about a year ago, at first i thought it was fuel cut, then i tried all the ignition components, igniter, plugs, wires coils i tried it all, it was a combo of a bad engine ground and a fucken pinched vacuum line

check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids

Actually, I do not really understand this part "check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids"

Could someone help me explain? Thanks.
Old 08-07-09, 11:40 AM
  #33  
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boost leak?
Old 08-07-09, 03:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Zie
Originally Posted by smog-guy707
i had the same problem about a year ago, at first i thought it was fuel cut, then i tried all the ignition components, igniter, plugs, wires coils i tried it all, it was a combo of a bad engine ground and a fucken pinched vacuum line

check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids

Actually, I do not really understand this part "check all your gorunds and make sure you dont have any vacuum lines broken, at least the ones that go to all the solenoids"

Could someone help me explain? Thanks.
most, or all, electrical components in a car have two wires, one for power, the other is the return line or ground, that is attached to the body/chassis/engine, if one of the ground wires isn't attached properly/is loose, it can cause electrical malfunctions

regarding the modifications, do you know what size secondary injectors you're running? a holset turbo with a haltech ecu is a pretty major upgrade for ANY car, especially these, if the tune is off it can screw your car up, bad, when you took it to the dyno did you get a dyno sheet that also showed your afr?

regarding the boost leak/vacuum hose part, the entire system intake system is pressurized, the wastegate/BOV are controlled by boost/vacuum hoses (blue, red, purple, can be any number of colors) they are little rubber-like (usually silicon) hoses that are going to be spidered throughout your engine bay, if one is weak/cracked it can not do anything under normal driving as long as you stay out of boost, because the motor is going to be creating a vacuum, keeping the hoses from splitting, once you get into boost, the air inside the hoses will expand, potentially opening the cracks and allowing a leak in the air that a component sees.

It's a little different for the intake system. It always has air flowing through, but once you get into boost the pressure in the intake increases by quite a bit, and that in turn can lead to cracks in the couplers opening, or anything that isn't sealed/seated correctly to leak air, but I don't think it's a boost leak, if anything i think it's a vacuum hose/fuel issue.

It sounds like you're in over your head, you may not want to pay for it, but at this point, especially with a Holset/Haltech, you may want to get a professional shop to help you out.
Old 08-08-09, 12:45 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by KKMpunkrock2011
most, or all, electrical components in a car have two wires, one for power, the other is the return line or ground, that is attached to the body/chassis/engine, if one of the ground wires isn't attached properly/is loose, it can cause electrical malfunctions

regarding the modifications, do you know what size secondary injectors you're running? a holset turbo with a haltech ecu is a pretty major upgrade for ANY car, especially these, if the tune is off it can screw your car up, bad, when you took it to the dyno did you get a dyno sheet that also showed your afr?

regarding the boost leak/vacuum hose part, the entire system intake system is pressurized, the wastegate/BOV are controlled by boost/vacuum hoses (blue, red, purple, can be any number of colors) they are little rubber-like (usually silicon) hoses that are going to be spidered throughout your engine bay, if one is weak/cracked it can not do anything under normal driving as long as you stay out of boost, because the motor is going to be creating a vacuum, keeping the hoses from splitting, once you get into boost, the air inside the hoses will expand, potentially opening the cracks and allowing a leak in the air that a component sees.

It's a little different for the intake system. It always has air flowing through, but once you get into boost the pressure in the intake increases by quite a bit, and that in turn can lead to cracks in the couplers opening, or anything that isn't sealed/seated correctly to leak air, but I don't think it's a boost leak, if anything i think it's a vacuum hose/fuel issue.

It sounds like you're in over your head, you may not want to pay for it, but at this point, especially with a Holset/Haltech, you may want to get a professional shop to help you out.
Thx for explaining. I found several threads having the same problem. Mostly are secondary injectors problems and the engine wiring harness. Those two are the main problems. I will have it checked next week and report back.
Old 08-10-09, 04:35 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Zie
Thx for explaining. I found several threads having the same problem. Mostly are secondary injectors problems and the engine wiring harness. Those two are the main problems. I will have it checked next week and report back.
If you are achieveing full boost and revs in 1st, but not able to in the other gears, it suggests the extra torque (leverage) on the engine may be enough to prevent your secondary injectors from firing, by pulling on the wiring harness. Especially if your car is a converted auto and the wiring loom has been adapted.

Can you accelerate at half throttle? Past the 4500rpm barrier. Then do you get full boost and power?

Beware, if your secondaries are not working then you may have detonation and blow your tip seals.

Jonathan
Old 08-11-09, 01:27 PM
  #37  
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just had a problem almost identical to this on an n/a fc. turned out it was ignition... fricken msd boxes
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