Help ASAP No power to Ignition Switch
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Help ASAP No power to Ignition Switch
So was driving down the road today and the car just dies! Has no power to anything becides the headlight/tail lights/ hazards. I tested for power at the ignition switch with a test light and have No power. Checked all the fuses and they are good, even checked with the test light to make sure all the wires coming out of the fuse box had power and they are good. Hope someone can help me. Thanks Need help ASAP
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The BTN fuse supplies power to the Buss fuses in the interior fuse box such as the ones which supplies power to the horn and flashers etc, but the rest of the fuses get power from the ignition switch so that would rule out the ignition switch if indeed all the fuses get power be it with the key turned to ACC, On or Start.
As mentioned earlier you want to check the Main relay as it should click w/key to on and the Black/Yellow wire at the coils should have voltage w/key to on and the Black/White wire at the check connector by the leading coil should also have voltage w/key to on. If both of these wires have voltage as stated then the Main relay is good.
As mentioned earlier you want to check the Main relay as it should click w/key to on and the Black/Yellow wire at the coils should have voltage w/key to on and the Black/White wire at the check connector by the leading coil should also have voltage w/key to on. If both of these wires have voltage as stated then the Main relay is good.
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The BTN fuse supplies power to the Buss fuses in the interior fuse box such as the ones which supplies power to the horn and flashers etc, but the rest of the fuses get power from the ignition switch so that would rule out the ignition switch if indeed all the fuses get power be it with the key turned to ACC, On or Start.
As mentioned earlier you want to check the Main relay as it should click w/key to on and the Black/Yellow wire at the coils should have voltage w/key to on and the Black/White wire at the check connector by the leading coil should also have voltage w/key to on. If both of these wires have voltage as stated then the Main relay is good.
As mentioned earlier you want to check the Main relay as it should click w/key to on and the Black/Yellow wire at the coils should have voltage w/key to on and the Black/White wire at the check connector by the leading coil should also have voltage w/key to on. If both of these wires have voltage as stated then the Main relay is good.
#6
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It's located between the trailing coil and the brake master cylinder and is bolted to the driver side fender. It has two plugs to it as opposed to one which would be found on the Starter Cut relay that is found on cars with the factory alarm (as they look very similar). You can bypass the Main relay by removing the four wire plug to it and jumpering the Black/Yellow wire to the Black/Green wire and the White/Blue wire to the Black/White wire. This should only be done to check to see if this relay is the cause of your problem as bypassing it via the two jumper wires will eventually drain the battery some. The White/Blue wire comes from the engine fuse box and more specifically the 30 amp EGI Comp fuse while the Black/Green wire comes from the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse. If either of these connections at the engine fuse box are loose then that would cause the Main relay to cut out and so would the car. So bypass this relay and see if it continues to die and make sure the two connections at the engine fuse box are secure and not loose.
Also, there is a Black wire coming from the same fuse box which supplies the ignition switch with constant voltage and if the connection/supply is disrupted the engine would also die. If this connection were suspect then the wipers and turn signals would not work w/key to on so if the car dies again then immediately check to see if these two items work or not w/key to on.
In closing, in my first post I mentioned two wires and where to locate them and that they should both have voltage w/key to on. So, if the car dies the key would be in the on position so leave the key alone if the car dies and immediately check for voltage on these two wires and it will immediately tell you whether the problem is caused by the Main relay or not. The B/Y wire at the leading coil is in a two wire plug which would be disconnected to test for voltage while the B/W wire near the leading coil is in a check connector which isn't connected to anything such that it would easy to take the voltage reading from since it isn't plugged in to an any items.
Also, there is a Black wire coming from the same fuse box which supplies the ignition switch with constant voltage and if the connection/supply is disrupted the engine would also die. If this connection were suspect then the wipers and turn signals would not work w/key to on so if the car dies again then immediately check to see if these two items work or not w/key to on.
In closing, in my first post I mentioned two wires and where to locate them and that they should both have voltage w/key to on. So, if the car dies the key would be in the on position so leave the key alone if the car dies and immediately check for voltage on these two wires and it will immediately tell you whether the problem is caused by the Main relay or not. The B/Y wire at the leading coil is in a two wire plug which would be disconnected to test for voltage while the B/W wire near the leading coil is in a check connector which isn't connected to anything such that it would easy to take the voltage reading from since it isn't plugged in to an any items.
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