i posted this in the wrong forum before ...sorry. i was wondering what made these tt rotary motors so tempermental?and being the weight distrobution is like 50/50...whats the best set up suspention wise when swapping into a ls1?..

thanx

 

Mazda made a very complicated sequential turbo system with about 7 trillion vacuum lines (actually 70 or so). It is right next to massive exhaust heat from the turbos so the lines last about 10 minutes off of the factory floor before they start failing. The intercooler is too small, rad is too small, too many plastic parts in the engine bay, and a host of other problems.

Mazda fixed the FD with the later cars but they were never brought to North America. All rotary prior to the FD was quite reliable.

 

i wonder why the japs would make such a laim desighn??i thought it was the american motors industry that wasnt to inovative??lol....im def.lookin to get a 93-94 with a v8 swap...i think it would be a very fun ride...thanx for the info.

 

It's hard to say what went wrong with the FD. At the time, I think budget concerns were a major part of it because they had to keep the car in a certain price bracket. The FD is sort of what happens when you turn engineers loose on a problem, let them do their thing, then try to make it fit into a budget later on. The essence of the system remains and is well engineered, but the application fails.

To this day I wonder why Mazda took the twin turbo approach instead of simply using a single ball bearing turbo. Of course ball bearing turbos were exotic technology back then, but then again, so was their twin turbo system.

 

Mazda used twins so that you could get good power all the way to redline without having lag or lacking in torque down low at street RPMs.

Many manufacturers use a small turbo so that the average joe can feel the "power" but that turbo can't do enough to support the high end.

That said, it's possible to put a bigger radiator, remove the precat (which is one of the major heat sources that wasn't part of the original JDM design, but was required by US emissions laws), and a few other reliability mods to make a stockish FD fairly reliable and fun. If you want to get serious about power, mods plus water or water/meth injection will allow an FD to be very impressive in both power and reliability.

 

whats fd stand for??

 

FD = 3rd generation = RX-7 generation with the twin turbo engine. FD3S is the chassis code.

 

sounds simple enough..thanx...now someone find me a damn rx7 with a ls1 in it!!!


i slugged my step dad in the gut...lol