grounding coils
#26
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Different trailing coil perhaps. There is perhaps one more thing you could do to verify exactly what is happening here. You could reconnect all the plugs to the trailing coil and take a needle and ***** the Yellow/Blue wire at the four wire plug and then take a wire and put it into the bullet connector of the trailing coil and then touch the other end of this wire to the needle and see if the tach runs while the car is running. You'll need two people obviously to do this. If the tach works properly then the trailing coil is good on all fronts and the problem lies only in the wiring.
#27
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ok so i pricked the yellow/blue wire at the four wire plug not in the plug but right where the wire connects to the plug, then put a wire in the trailing coil bullet connector, while i touched the wire to the needle i pricked in the yellow/blue wire, "all plugs were connected" i had my brother start the car and nothing happened so does this meen the problem still lies within the trailing coil??? thanks for all the help and patience
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i have actually had the cluster removed and doing so is not a problem for me, what exactly would i need to do to run a continuity test on the Y/L wire?? thanks for the help and hopefully i have this all figured out soon
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#31
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which one of the two plugs on the back of the gauge cluster houses the Y/L plug is it the black plug or the white plug??? just want to be sure i will be testing it tonight so just want every thing in line, thanks
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actually the only time i noticed the shift up indicator working properly was when i either had the wire jumpered across, or when it momentarly worked after i put some dielectric grease on the plug via the traling coil, which was short lived
hey just got done running the continuity test on the Y/L wire and the multimeter sounded off while testing so i know the Y/L wire is good, so the problems gotta be in the trailing coil right? just wanted to keep you posted on my progress, thanks for all your help
hey just got done running the continuity test on the Y/L wire and the multimeter sounded off while testing so i know the Y/L wire is good, so the problems gotta be in the trailing coil right? just wanted to keep you posted on my progress, thanks for all your help
Last edited by mar3; 07-14-10 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
#35
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Meter set to DCV and the red lead goes into the bullet connector and the black lead to a ground and with the car running and idling at a normal RPM should indicate a voltage reading of .8 volts. W/out this signal the tach won't work. The trailing coil needs to be firing on both coils for the tach to work also and that might be the problem.
Also, are you aware if the shift up indicator light is working properly?
In the end, at least you are learning more about your car which can be chalked up as a plus.
#36
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actually the only time i noticed the shift up indicator working properly was when i either had the wire jumpered across, or when it momentarly worked after i put some dielectric grease on the plug via the traling coil, which was short lived
voltage running through the Y/L wire was about .48 to about .5 so voltage is not at .8 volts, keeping you posted, thanks
voltage running through the Y/L wire was about .48 to about .5 so voltage is not at .8 volts, keeping you posted, thanks
Last edited by mar3; 07-14-10 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
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yes i will have pics of damage as soon as my wife's camera is charged and i can take some lol sorry, should be later on tonight or first thing tomorrow, question though upon replacing, "if i need to" the CAS, i will need to adjust the timing am i right? if that is so i have no idea on how to set timing back to proper place any help would be much appreciated, thanks alot
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