Different trailing coil perhaps. There is perhaps one more thing you could do to verify exactly what is happening here. You could reconnect all the plugs to the trailing coil and take a needle and ***** the Yellow/Blue wire at the four wire plug and then take a wire and put it into the bullet connector of the trailing coil and then touch the other end of this wire to the needle and see if the tach runs while the car is running. You'll need two people obviously to do this. If the tach works properly then the trailing coil is good on all fronts and the problem lies only in the wiring.

 

ok so i pricked the yellow/blue wire at the four wire plug not in the plug but right where the wire connects to the plug, then put a wire in the trailing coil bullet connector, while i touched the wire to the needle i pricked in the yellow/blue wire, "all plugs were connected" i had my brother start the car and nothing happened so does this meen the problem still lies within the trailing coil??? thanks for all the help and patience

 

It appears that way. A continuity test on the Y/L wire would eliminate all doubt as whether the wire is the possible culprit, but to do such a test would require the removal of the gauge cluster and might beyond what you want to do so I had yet to mention it.

 

i have actually had the cluster removed and doing so is not a problem for me, what exactly would i need to do to run a continuity test on the Y/L wire?? thanks for the help and hopefully i have this all figured out soon

 

You would have the four wire plug at the trailing coil disconnected as well as the meter plug that houses the Y/L wire that is connected to the back of the gauge cluster. With both plugs disconnected you would then take the multimeter set to continuity setting which has an audible feature to it ( normally the setting on the meter has a depiction of a dot with a series of curved lines that is triangular in shape) and place a lead on each of the two ends of the Y/L wire and if the wire is completely intact with no breaks then the meter will emit a piercing sound. Doesn't matter which lead goes to what for red could go to the four wire plug and the black lead to the gauge plug Y/L wire or vice versa as it doesn't matter when checking for continuity. If the meter makes the sound then your Y/L wire is good and the problem is coming from the coil. No key in ignition!!!!!!!!!!! To do a sound check before testing you would place both meter lead ends to each other and it will emit a sound.

 

which one of the two plugs on the back of the gauge cluster houses the Y/L plug is it the black plug or the white plug??? just want to be sure i will be testing it tonight so just want every thing in line, thanks

 

When looking at the cluster from the front it would be the one on the left. Not sure about the color.

 

Does your shift up indicator light work properly? If so, this means the trailing coil is sending a proper signal.

 

actually the only time i noticed the shift up indicator working properly was when i either had the wire jumpered across, or when it momentarly worked after i put some dielectric grease on the plug via the traling coil, which was short lived

hey just got done running the continuity test on the Y/L wire and the multimeter sounded off while testing so i know the Y/L wire is good, so the problems gotta be in the trailing coil right? just wanted to keep you posted on my progress, thanks for all your help

 

You can find out what voltage is being sent through the Y/L wire and it's an easy check that just involves reading voltage of the bullet connector at the trailing coil.

Meter set to DCV and the red lead goes into the bullet connector and the black lead to a ground and with the car running and idling at a normal RPM should indicate a voltage reading of .8 volts. W/out this signal the tach won't work. The trailing coil needs to be firing on both coils for the tach to work also and that might be the problem.

Also, are you aware if the shift up indicator light is working properly?

In the end, at least you are learning more about your car which can be chalked up as a plus.

 

actually the only time i noticed the shift up indicator working properly was when i either had the wire jumpered across, or when it momentarly worked after i put some dielectric grease on the plug via the traling coil, which was short lived

voltage running through the Y/L wire was about .48 to about .5 so voltage is not at .8 volts, keeping you posted, thanks

 

im tryin to figure out what this is, cause i need a new one and i cant seem to get the right name of what it is exactly?

 

Can you perhaps post a pic of the damage?

 

yes i will have pics of damage as soon as my wife's camera is charged and i can take some lol sorry, should be later on tonight or first thing tomorrow, question though upon replacing, "if i need to" the CAS, i will need to adjust the timing am i right? if that is so i have no idea on how to set timing back to proper place any help would be much appreciated, thanks alot

 

Start with post #99 in this link.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/86-tii-swap-wont-start-but-really-wants-887302/page4/

 

here are some pics of the damage done to my CAS,

 

just wanted to post that some how my tac recently just started working again i didnt really do anything new just changed my cas cause of an accident but weird it works ha