Got spark and fuel, no ignition...
#1
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Got spark and fuel, no ignition...
OK, Ive checked the FAQ and maybe I wasnt typing the right thing into the search engine, but here is my scenario and Im not sure what the issue is.
Im not getting firing of the engine. Ive got fuel and Ive pulled all the plugs and tested to make sure they are all firing and they are good to go...
the only thing I can think of is that the previous owner put the plug wires on the wrong plugs (I bought the car not running)...
Right now the plug are sitting as follows.
front ignition pack, left wire to bottom front plug
front ignition pack, right wire to top front plug
rear ignition pack, left wire to bottom rear plug
rear ignition pack, right wire to top rear plug
is this correct? If so, its back to square one trouble shooting.
Thanks guys
Im not getting firing of the engine. Ive got fuel and Ive pulled all the plugs and tested to make sure they are all firing and they are good to go...
the only thing I can think of is that the previous owner put the plug wires on the wrong plugs (I bought the car not running)...
Right now the plug are sitting as follows.
front ignition pack, left wire to bottom front plug
front ignition pack, right wire to top front plug
rear ignition pack, left wire to bottom rear plug
rear ignition pack, right wire to top rear plug
is this correct? If so, its back to square one trouble shooting.
Thanks guys
#2
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WRONG!
Front coil wires go to LOWER.(leading) it doesn't matter which as the leading coils fire simultaneously.the coil has markings in the plastic covering the coils as L1 and L2,so if you feel comfortable put the L1 to front Lower plug and L2 to Rear lower plug.(but really you can get away with putting any wire from this Leading coil to any of the lower plugs.
BUT the Trailing coil( near the Brake booster/firewall,whatever) fires Specifically.
LOOK: at the top of the Trailing coil and you will see T1 and T2..T1 is the Front rotor(so you put the plug wire on the TOP plug) and T2 is the Rear rotor(so you put T2 wire to the Top rear Plug).
The way that you can remember is:T=top(trailing) and L=lower(leading)
the engine is easy too,as the engine has 2 rotors(13b style..) so it is Front engine is FR rotor(R1) and the Rear of the engine is rear rotor(R2).
Front coil wires go to LOWER.(leading) it doesn't matter which as the leading coils fire simultaneously.the coil has markings in the plastic covering the coils as L1 and L2,so if you feel comfortable put the L1 to front Lower plug and L2 to Rear lower plug.(but really you can get away with putting any wire from this Leading coil to any of the lower plugs.
BUT the Trailing coil( near the Brake booster/firewall,whatever) fires Specifically.
LOOK: at the top of the Trailing coil and you will see T1 and T2..T1 is the Front rotor(so you put the plug wire on the TOP plug) and T2 is the Rear rotor(so you put T2 wire to the Top rear Plug).
The way that you can remember is:T=top(trailing) and L=lower(leading)
the engine is easy too,as the engine has 2 rotors(13b style..) so it is Front engine is FR rotor(R1) and the Rear of the engine is rear rotor(R2).
#3
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thank you so much. It didnt seem right. Just changed the setup but it still wont fire. I will look at it a bit more tomorrow when its light out.
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it may be that you flooded it trying to start it.
Are the plugs saturated with fuel?..check em!
Try taking the plugs out and drying them off.Take out EGI fuse( engine bay fuse block)
while you have the plugs out,roll the engine over about 20 seconds.
then Put about 2 tablespoon of motor oil in the Spark plug holes,and Roll the engine over about 3 or 4 seconds with the plugs out,That will expel other crud that is in the Housings.
Then Put the EGI fuse and plugs back in.hook the plug wires up CORRECTLY( I had to say that!..),,Start up with NO foot on the Gas.
Are the plugs saturated with fuel?..check em!
Try taking the plugs out and drying them off.Take out EGI fuse( engine bay fuse block)
while you have the plugs out,roll the engine over about 20 seconds.
then Put about 2 tablespoon of motor oil in the Spark plug holes,and Roll the engine over about 3 or 4 seconds with the plugs out,That will expel other crud that is in the Housings.
Then Put the EGI fuse and plugs back in.hook the plug wires up CORRECTLY( I had to say that!..),,Start up with NO foot on the Gas.
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A little bit interesting. So I knew I had spark and I assumed I had fuel cause I pulled the rear line off the fuel rail, but now that I pulled the plugs to check for moisture of unburned fuel, they are still dry. This, I assume, narrows it down to the injectors... so I guess some trouble shooting on them is in order. Maybe they are just plugged as the car sat for a long time and maybe a little rust built up in the empty tank and came down the lines... but Im guessing the injectors are not even pulsing.
#7
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Jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to check to see if the fuel pump primes the fuel rails or not as you should hear the sound of the fuel pushing through the system.
If you have that then try starting the car w/the jumper in place and see if that helps. Check the plugs after doing this to "possibly" verify whether or not they have fuel on them or leave the plug out while cranking and verify that way.
Also, you might want to pull the clip off one of the secondary injectors and measure for voltage w/key to on on the Brown wire which should read battery voltage.
If you have that then try starting the car w/the jumper in place and see if that helps. Check the plugs after doing this to "possibly" verify whether or not they have fuel on them or leave the plug out while cranking and verify that way.
Also, you might want to pull the clip off one of the secondary injectors and measure for voltage w/key to on on the Brown wire which should read battery voltage.
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If the Brown wire does not have voltage then check the EGI 40 amp INJ fuse as it powers the coils and injectors. If the Black/Yellow wire at the coils have voltage w/key to on then the Brown wire at the injectors should as well. An 86 has the Resistor Box which is powered by the B/Y wire and this voltage is passed on to the Brown wires at the individual injectors.
#11
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If the Brown wire does not have voltage then check the EGI 40 amp INJ fuse as it powers the coils and injectors. If the Black/Yellow wire at the coils have voltage w/key to on then the Brown wire at the injectors should as well. An 86 has the Resistor Box which is powered by the B/Y wire and this voltage is passed on to the Brown wires at the individual injectors.
#12
Hey there.. I would try 15 mph.. tow and pop the clutch.. at a safe speed.. just in case you have too much crap in there.. It might just start..
A safe speed is important.. if you don't know.. your main shaft turns 3 times to every one rotor turn. so just keep it slow..
You might just need to burn some crap out.. if it starts then get the car to warm and you might see some smoke along the way..
It only takes 5 minutes.. to tow it some.
you might want to try it.
Good luck !
A safe speed is important.. if you don't know.. your main shaft turns 3 times to every one rotor turn. so just keep it slow..
You might just need to burn some crap out.. if it starts then get the car to warm and you might see some smoke along the way..
It only takes 5 minutes.. to tow it some.
you might want to try it.
Good luck !
#13
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Hey there.. I would try 15 mph.. tow and pop the clutch.. at a safe speed.. just in case you have too much crap in there.. It might just start..
A safe speed is important.. if you don't know.. your main shaft turns 3 times to every one rotor turn. so just keep it slow..
You might just need to burn some crap out.. if it starts then get the car to warm and you might see some smoke along the way..
It only takes 5 minutes.. to tow it some.
you might want to try it.
Good luck !
A safe speed is important.. if you don't know.. your main shaft turns 3 times to every one rotor turn. so just keep it slow..
You might just need to burn some crap out.. if it starts then get the car to warm and you might see some smoke along the way..
It only takes 5 minutes.. to tow it some.
you might want to try it.
Good luck !
Got home late, so I couldnt do any troubleshooting on the injector harness
#14
I just spent some time going through all of the injector and coils and fuel lines my self. I had some issue.. I must have taken the top of the rotary off 5 times trouble shooting.. to figure out just what the signals and injectors are doing. I have tested out every wire to and from the ECU just to figure out what ever issue i had.
I have come to the conclusion that even when you probably have fixed the issue. Maybe a plug or wire oxidized and the unplug and re plug back in might have fixed the issue.. Well.. The car might not start.. It could be gummed a little bit..
It sounds strange.. its worth a 5 minute tow though..
I have come to the conclusion that even when you probably have fixed the issue. Maybe a plug or wire oxidized and the unplug and re plug back in might have fixed the issue.. Well.. The car might not start.. It could be gummed a little bit..
It sounds strange.. its worth a 5 minute tow though..
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Pretty simple actually. Found the problem. The previous owner pulled the key cyclinder to try doing some wiring for god knows what and cut the power to the ECU in the process...
doesnt really matter, just tried to get a really inexpensive car to start to make it an even better deal for what I paid. Im pulling the NA driveline and putting in a standalone so I dont need any of it anyways =)
thanks for your help though guys, I really appreciate your time to help
-Chris
doesnt really matter, just tried to get a really inexpensive car to start to make it an even better deal for what I paid. Im pulling the NA driveline and putting in a standalone so I dont need any of it anyways =)
thanks for your help though guys, I really appreciate your time to help
-Chris
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