Fuel problems...
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Fuel problems...
So my fuel pump is getting power, but wont kick on. Its a walboro 255 running to 550/750cc injectors on a large rotary doctor streetport. The car itself is an 89 TII. I pulled the lines from the filter and pump both, turned the key on and even tried cranking. Its just not kicking on. Tested the input connectoe to the pump for voltage, its good. So whats the next step? Btw, its an rtek2.1 ecu.
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The pump will run With the Ignition Switch ON if the AFM is moved in any way.
The pump will NOT run if the afm is NOT moved with ignition ON.
The pump runs on key to START position.
If your Afm is disconnected you won't get the pump to run.
IF you jumper the fuel check connector at the AFM( 2 terminal Connector) you will get the pump to run,that is IF everything is OK.
The pump will NOT run if the afm is NOT moved with ignition ON.
The pump runs on key to START position.
If your Afm is disconnected you won't get the pump to run.
IF you jumper the fuel check connector at the AFM( 2 terminal Connector) you will get the pump to run,that is IF everything is OK.
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The pump will run With the Ignition Switch ON if the AFM is moved in any way.
The pump will NOT run if the afm is NOT moved with ignition ON.
The pump runs on key to START position.
If your Afm is disconnected you won't get the pump to run.
IF you jumper the fuel check connector at the AFM( 2 terminal Connector) you will get the pump to run,that is IF everything is OK.
The pump will NOT run if the afm is NOT moved with ignition ON.
The pump runs on key to START position.
If your Afm is disconnected you won't get the pump to run.
IF you jumper the fuel check connector at the AFM( 2 terminal Connector) you will get the pump to run,that is IF everything is OK.
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Another update. Double check the fsm and resistor relay. Its fine. Though when checking the fuel pump relay under the steering column my multimeter just searches for voltage. I checked it IAW the FSM. It just searched and searched. Bad relay? Lol
#6
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Look at the circuit opening relay. Top row far left wire should have voltage w/key to start. Wire next to it (top row middle wire) has voltage w/car running and key to on. When both wires have voltage when they should the Blue wire in the plug should have voltage. Blue wire powers the resistor relay which in turn powers the pump. At the circuit relay the bottom row far left wire is Black. This is a ground wire. It can be used by the multimeter when checking the voltage of the two wires (Black/White) and the Blue wire.
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Look at the circuit opening relay. Top row far left wire should have voltage w/key to start. Wire next to it (top row middle wire) has voltage w/car running and key to on. When both wires have voltage when they should the Blue wire in the plug should have voltage. Blue wire powers the resistor relay which in turn powers the pump. At the circuit relay the bottom row far left wire is Black. This is a ground wire. It can be used by the multimeter when checking the voltage of the two wires (Black/White) and the Blue wire.
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#9
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As Styx and I have stated, the pump does not turn on just because the key is set to on. You either have to jump the fuel check connector or open the AFM flapper for the pump to turn on w/key to on. Again, w/key to start the Blue wire will be powered. If the engine was running the Blue wire would be powered. W/just key to on the pump will not be activated because the Blue wire will have no voltage. The 2.5 volts you see is likely voltage that is bleeding through the relay from the B/W wire at the relay that has 12 volts w/key to on.
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Right, i tried jumping the connector and moving the flapper both. The pump doesnt kick on. The 2.5v i saw was the only wire i got an accurate voltage reading at w/ key to on. What youre saying to do, just so i know im understanding correctly, is jump the test connector, turn the key to on, and check the voltage at the relay at the same time, right?
#11
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Right, i tried jumping the connector and moving the flapper both. The pump doesnt kick on. The 2.5v i saw was the only wire i got an accurate voltage reading at w/ key to on. What youre saying to do, just so i know im understanding correctly, is jump the test connector, turn the key to on, and check the voltage at the relay at the same time, right?
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Turned out my 8 month old walbro 255 is bad..and after reading up on their warranty process ive decided to buy a new one. Itll be here sometime friday, so i can finally resart the tuning process to make up for the street port i just had done. Took me long enough to figure it out huh? Ill get there.eventually. im used to working on jet engines, not cars. Lol
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