Hey guys... I got a turbo 2 88..... I have a racing beat exhaust and boost controller on it... and after market sound system..all else is stock....its in the shop right now cause its running WAY too rich..... if i let it go down to idle.. it stalls... any one experience anything like that??? cause liberty mazda is looking at it right now.....im so frustrated lol xD ... but help would be appreciated... thanks
Rob

 

Stalling at idle is usually a vacuum leak or bad/mis-adjusted TPS.

Why do you think it's running too rich? The stock ECU is tuned rich at idle and under load.

 

In general, yes. Part of the reason is to allow unburnt fuel to burn in the cats at a higher temperature than pistons engines to help clean up emissions. Sounds like backwards thinking but it works.

 

^That, and keeping it in the fat (rich) AFR range extends the life of the engine. that is, in terms of not blowing anything apart.

 

Also, you have a combination there for a blown engine. Free flowing exhaust, boost controller, stock ECU. You can turn the boost up to 8 PSI before the ECU cuts fuel to protect the engine. If you want to go above 8 PSI, you will need an FCD and fuel mods to accomidate the higher boost.

 

^Speaking of which i have a FCD and some 720cc injectors if you're interested PM me.

 

my 88 turbo also stalls at idle, and wants to idle around 1,500-2,000rpm. does anyone know how much vacuum i should have at idle?

 

i have about 15-18'' at idle

 

The sparkplugs keep getting fouled so a lot of people are saying stuck injectors.... Some say loss of compression but when the issue happened it didn't make. A noise like something catastrophic happened..

 

Does anyone know of credible rotary mechs in CT? I need to get my car back on the road...

 

update: neither rotor has compression apparently...... so .......two questions for you guys.... emissions and difficulty wise... Jdm motor into USDM rx7? opinions?

also.... if not.... where could i get a 13B motor without having to deal with the core charge ? a good motor ... obv.

 

Are you sure you tested compression properly? It's pretty hard to get the engine to have no compression on any of the 6 rotor faces. You'd need to damage multiple apex or side seals to pull that off. On top of that, the engine would never start.

You're not removing more than one spark plug prior to testing, right? Just 1 trailing needs to come out. Bleeder valve held down, or schraeder valve removed too to see the individual bounces.

J-spec engines are almost identical to the US versions. You could unbolt all of your existing manifolds, accessories, etc... and just attach them to a new block. The main emissions change is no EGR valve on the J-spec LIM. On my car, I just used a US-spec LIM so I could have a dummy EGR bolted onto it. J-spec engines are a gamble however. You have to find a vendor that knows a little about them so you'll hopefully avoid getting a blown one. You can see if there are any local importers that you can visit to pick out an engine, or try a source like an rx7club member named Japan2LA. He's a vendor that specializes in imported engines and parts.

 

well the dealer said there was none...but most likely they did something wrong -_-. cause yeah ... its running weird...... lik i said above.... but i cant see how it would even pop start if it was coompletely trashed...I dunno...... im thinking of atkins rotary....... possibly..... for a rebuild one.... as the most solid route? also,would you have any idea how muchitd cost all together to have a shop take out an engine ship it, and put a new one in ? cause they arent giving me a clear answer....

 

You can find a used one everywhere, but take it to a pro first, let them tell you whats wrong...

 

well the problem is .,... in CT ...there arent many out there........