first rx7 1988
12-03-10, 02:51 PM
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first rx7 1988
Hey guys... I got a turbo 2 88..... I have a racing beat exhaust and boost controller on it... and after market sound system..all else is stock....its in the shop right now cause its running WAY too rich..... if i let it go down to idle.. it stalls... any one experience anything like that??? cause liberty mazda is looking at it right now.....im so frustrated lol xD ... but help would be appreciated... thanks
Rob
Rob
12-04-10, 10:41 AM
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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Also, you have a combination there for a blown engine. Free flowing exhaust, boost controller, stock ECU. You can turn the boost up to 8 PSI before the ECU cuts fuel to protect the engine. If you want to go above 8 PSI, you will need an FCD and fuel mods to accomidate the higher boost.
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12-06-10, 11:02 AM
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The sparkplugs keep getting fouled so a lot of people are saying stuck injectors.... Some say loss of compression but when the issue happened it didn't make. A noise like something catastrophic happened..
12-10-10, 05:51 PM
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update: neither rotor has compression apparently...... so .......two questions for you guys.... emissions and difficulty wise... Jdm motor into USDM rx7? opinions?
also.... if not.... where could i get a 13B motor without having to deal with the core charge ? a good motor ... obv.
also.... if not.... where could i get a 13B motor without having to deal with the core charge ? a good motor ... obv.
12-10-10, 08:19 PM
#12
Are you sure you tested compression properly? It's pretty hard to get the engine to have no compression on any of the 6 rotor faces. You'd need to damage multiple apex or side seals to pull that off. On top of that, the engine would never start.
You're not removing more than one spark plug prior to testing, right? Just 1 trailing needs to come out. Bleeder valve held down, or schraeder valve removed too to see the individual bounces.
J-spec engines are almost identical to the US versions. You could unbolt all of your existing manifolds, accessories, etc... and just attach them to a new block. The main emissions change is no EGR valve on the J-spec LIM. On my car, I just used a US-spec LIM so I could have a dummy EGR bolted onto it. J-spec engines are a gamble however. You have to find a vendor that knows a little about them so you'll hopefully avoid getting a blown one. You can see if there are any local importers that you can visit to pick out an engine, or try a source like an rx7club member named Japan2LA. He's a vendor that specializes in imported engines and parts.
You're not removing more than one spark plug prior to testing, right? Just 1 trailing needs to come out. Bleeder valve held down, or schraeder valve removed too to see the individual bounces.
J-spec engines are almost identical to the US versions. You could unbolt all of your existing manifolds, accessories, etc... and just attach them to a new block. The main emissions change is no EGR valve on the J-spec LIM. On my car, I just used a US-spec LIM so I could have a dummy EGR bolted onto it. J-spec engines are a gamble however. You have to find a vendor that knows a little about them so you'll hopefully avoid getting a blown one. You can see if there are any local importers that you can visit to pick out an engine, or try a source like an rx7club member named Japan2LA. He's a vendor that specializes in imported engines and parts.
12-10-10, 08:28 PM
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well the dealer said there was none...but most likely they did something wrong -_-. cause yeah ... its running weird...... lik i said above.... but i cant see how it would even pop start if it was coompletely trashed...I dunno...... im thinking of atkins rotary....... possibly..... for a rebuild one.... as the most solid route? also,would you have any idea how muchitd cost all together to have a shop take out an engine ship it, and put a new one in ? cause they arent giving me a clear answer....
