Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

Im in the middle of an engine swap (putting in a used to replace the blown), and along the way Im addressing all the issues that I find, including this one with the turbo oil drain off the front turbo. Looks like the accordian section was man-handled, and broken. To "fix" the problem the person who worked on it put in some braided hose and it seems to have leaked indicated by all the oil/dirt surrounding it.

First a pick of the back oil drain so you know what Im talking about, but my broken one is off the front.


Now a couple of the pics of the ghetto rig job that was done starting with the drain from the turbo:



and now the hose and the other end of what used to be a solid pipe:


My question is whether it would be practical to set up an AN fitting type drain. My first choice would be to just get a replacement piece, but I wouldnt know where to get one, since these cars are way too rare to just go to a pick a part or any sort of junkyard.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Buy a used part from this forum's classifieds. At lot of folks (myself included) have boxes of good used parts like this.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If you can't get an original replacement, AN fittings with braided line would be the way to go. You can get a couple cheapo threaded flanges off ebay. This is the way almost every aftermarket turbo's oil drain is set up.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you can't find a used part, call Ray at Malloy Mazda. He'll get you the right part.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

checked the classifieds, I didnt realize how many people were selling good used parts there. Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate all the help

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You'll still probably need the gasket(s) so keep that Malloy Mazda number handy. Great resource.
That engine looks really clean for used. Hard to tell but looks like black silicone vacuum hoses already? Good time to consider aftermarket motor mounts too. The longevity of the stock ones isn't good.
Good luck, keep us posted on the progress.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

Ya Im probably going to need some things from the dealer, Ill definately give a call to Malloy Mazda. That pic isnt of my engine, I got that off the internet.
My used engine had been sitting in the back of a shop for years, so its super dusty, I had to clean it out a whole lot. I got it for cheap, and since I couldnt pay for a proper rebuild, I figure this will hold at least until I can get a nice rebuild with a streetport and other goodies.

Ill take some pics today of what Im working on. Im spending a lot of time replacing the crackly dry electrical take with new and soft ones. I didnt have my choice of colors, so it looks like christmas being red and green

I also cut off the flapper on the exhaust manifold (have a spare if I decide to not do this) because I plan to go non-sequential. pics later today

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

I finally got everything off the blown motor that Im going to need, its pretty much bare now:


and my used engine is starting to look more like a complete engine although I have a lot left to do:

the fram filter is just there from the blown motor, I wont be using it on this engine, I just left it on there as a dust protector haha.

heres a pic of my "modified" manifold:

all i need is a bolt to go through where the hinge used to be. Im planning on getting an allen head bolt so it blocks the airway as little as possible. I just have to get one that can handle the temps. I also want to grind down that pipe inside of the manifold, it looks terrible, and I'm sure it doesnt improve the airflow.

Im glad I spent so much time on the harness, one of the connectors just broke off from barely handling it, and its a lot easier to repair it off the engine.

Im going to put loom over it, so my engine bay doesnt look wacko.

I had an alluminum mount, split in two, now in the garbage. Im definately going urethane, just waiting on next week so I can get all the various gaskets/hoses that Ill be needing to continue, the car should should be running by the end of the month since I only get to put time into it here and there.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

This bumper came with the car, so Im going to use it

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Nice job on the harness. Instead of a plastic loom/cover, I like the silicone fusion tape. It's a little pricey...(~ $4 a roll) I think I used 6 or 8 rolls, but it's also high temp and won't dry out and get brittle.
I'm still sequential, but seems like welding up the hole in the manifold might be a better option. And I was going to suggest you dremel the remenants of the tube. It will continue to errode and you still have the turbo downstream.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You can tell the car, at least the front, has been resprayed at least once. They basically over-sprayed everything (oil cooler, power steering cooling, line, etc). Make sure to test that you have continuity back to the ECU connector on the wires before you install the engine. Also, make sure that the wires you are repairing aren't shielded (or if they are, you repaired them correctly).

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

Ya, and they did a terrible job as well. There are drips in the rear quarter panel, and the roof's clear coat is peeling bad. In person you can tell it was a cheap paint job, but i have seen worse! lol After I get the car running I will worry about making it look good.

Im definately taking the advice and welding that hole shut. Its funny my thought process is: If I cant do it myself, its not an option, lol. But I have friends who can do it for me. Ill check out that silicone fusion tape.

I noticed the Lower intake manifold had a paper gasket, that had failed, and I was wondering if the dealer was the only place to source the updated metal one?

Also, the pipes that bolt directly to the turbos (on the intake/compressor side) were sealed with silicone. Is that good enough? Or should I buy the paper gaskets, or did they update those to metal too?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You can order gaskets from Mazdatrix although Ray at Malloy Mazda will be cheaper:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-2.htm

This is a car you can't run down to AutoZone for parts so get used to ordering. If you plan to AutoX the car, you can apply at MazdaComp for cheaper prices:

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/membershipinfo.htm

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Get all new gaskets for the turbo oil return lines. There are 4 total. You may as well do it right while you are there. I would also suggest new crush washer for the turbo coolant lines.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Check the soft turbo coolant lines closely while the engine is out. They have a tendency to swell and balloon with age and heat. Replacing them with the motor out is alot easier. They're not that expensive.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

I was taking a look at the turbos, and found this:


Some close ups of the damage:




What the hell and how does this happen lol. Im guessing these turbos are toast now, what are my best options?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's typical heat damage on higher mileage stock twins. Just get lower mileage set.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

_+1 on typical. Unfortunately, your cracks are worse than most, and extend beyond the gasket. Decent used sets can be found in the FS/WTB section, but recommend dealing with long time members with solid reputations.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

Got a deal on some turbo's from a 95 with less than 20k miles, check them out:






They were in a storage unit, still a little dusty and a tiny bit of surface rust on some parts that can easily be wiped off.
Better than my old turbos