skkitz

alright so I thought I blew my coolant seal turns out i didn't but my car wants to over heat i go to put coolant in it and its takes less than 1/4 liter of fluid I know the thermostat isn't stuck but it is a stat thermostat (which will be replaced with a 195 OEM) its currently a 185 anyone have any ideas? also im pretty sure my clutch is going bad but it doesn't seem to slip in 1st threw 3rd gear its only 4th and 5th nd its when you go to get on it the car just revs the slowly climbs to the rpm where the car is revving at so i've been babing the clutch lately i just hope nothing more than a simple clutch change will solve it thanx in advance guys

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Is it losing coolant? The OEM thermostat is 180*F, not 195 or 185. You should never use anything but an OEM thermostat.

A slipping clutch is easy to check. If you can increase the RPMs without increasing speed, it's slipping. What you describe about revving slowly isn't that. If you stomp on the gas with a slipping clutch, it will spin free up towards redline, but you'll barely move.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Do the usual cooling system checks and maintenance. Check your belts/hoses, when was the last time the system was flushed, how old is the water pump, how does the core look under the radiator cap? Do you still have the air pump? When you flush the system, make sure you drain from both the radiator and block. Block drain is on the driver's side at the bottom of the center iron. The odd looking bolt with the really deep/long head.

If I read your clutch description correctly, it may be slipping. Put the car in 4th gear around 30 mph and floor it. You will quickly know if it's slipping or not.

skkitz

okay the clutch is slipping and from what i am aware of everything is stock for the cooling system except the cap (I put the saftey pressure release cap on it) and had to replace the top rad hose because it blew from to much compression in the hose (car wasnt hot when it blew) also i didnt know not to use anything but OEM thermostat when i bought the stat thermo and the car isn't loosing coolant anywhere never had a problem with any leaks i also have an electric fan on the rad because my clutch fan doesnt work right(someone welded the clutch before i bought it)

nevertolow

sounds like your e-fan isn't pulling/pushing enough air threw the rad.
is there any way the thermostat could have been damaged when it blew the hose??

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Find out how many cfms the e-fan pulls. 1800-2000 cfms is a good safe number. Is the fan set to run all the time, be manually turned on or controlled by a thermo probe? Start the car cold with the radiator cap off. While waiting for it to warm up, keep an eye on the coolant, watching for 'champagne' bubbles in the coolant as it flows by. If you have bubbles, you blew a coolant seal. That would account for the blown coolant hose. For the top hose to blow from over-pressure, the thermostat has to open up. Unless the pressure built backwards against the direction of the coolant flow. Either way, that's too much pressure for a cooling system and not normal, even when over heating. Btw, it's more likely a Stant thermostat, not Stat.

skkitz

i'll have to look at my fan box but the fan runs when the car is on with a toggle switch and i'll check the the coolant today to see if its getting the campagne bubbles also can i just buy the o-ring set and replace my o-rings and gaskets without buying the 900 rebuild kit?

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

The O rings are for the fuel injectors, you would have to buy the rebuild kit or get it rebuilt if the coolant seals are blown. The coolant seals are on the inside of the engine so if you are going to replace them it would be a good time to replace all the other seals and springs inside the engine. Goodluck!

nevertolow

sounds like you guys are trying to scare him from rotaries. if you guys told me that id be scared as well lol

skkitz

well it doesn't have champagne bubbles in my coolant, also I think my water pump is going out of it i can hear what sounds like something metal getting knocked around on the passenger front side comming from what i think is the water pump and also noticed once my car warms up in the same spot it seems coolant is leaking so i ordered a new water pump lets hope it fixes it

Kentetsu

Make sure you replace the thermostat with an OEM model too, as already advised. Don't skimp on that.

I would also get an OEM radiator cap as well. Anything else might not release pressure at the correct point, or may fail to draw fluid back in from the reservoir as it cools down.

Good luck.



.

skkitz

okay guys got a problem i replaced my water pump (there is rust lines inside the water pump housing) and now when i start my car and it will heat up then it releases pressure from somewhere on the engine(alot of steam) and then it immediatly cools back down...it seems as if its getting air into the system somewhere(the water pump is completely tight no openings) any ideas?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you burp the cooling system?

skkitz

i have one it repeatedly but it seems that it isn't helping when is a good time to burp it I have tried it when it first starts and when its warmed up neither actually worked

Kentetsu

Have you replaced the thermostat yet? Could be a simple as a sticking thermostat...

skkitz

i cant currently afford a thermostat how much would it hurt the car to run without one?

nevertolow

boom!!! just buy the thermostat. or you could be buying a new motor instead.. just sayin better safe then sorry

skkitz

main reason i was asking(besides the money issue) is because when i gt the car i was told it was having overheating issues so i thought the thermostat was stuck and it didn't have one(i have no idea how long it was ran like this or anything)

Kentetsu

No thermostat = very bad!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I had cooling problems with my first Rx-7. I was uneducated with the rotary engine and thought it would be okay to run the car without a thermostat until I could afford a new one. The car overheated a lot and since I didn't know about rotaries at the time I had no idea I was actually pushing my engine to the blown stage. When I did replace the thermostat I didn't use the OEM one and my car overheated even worse and I ended up blowing my engine. Now a few years later and onto my second Rx-7 I learned that you should ALWAYS use a thermostat and OEM one at that. Overheating a rotary is almost instant death for them. The cooling system plays a huge role with these engines so always take precaution and know what you are putting in or taking out of the car before you do it. I was broke as a joke when my engine blew in my first 7 and I was extremely sad because I loved the car. I wouldn't want someone else to make the same mistake I made.

skkitz

so do you think that a thermostat could be causing all my over heating issues? my other one was stuck shut so that had alot to do with it but anyone know why my rx7 would still be over heating? no gas/oil in the coolant only smokes from cold start and thats because the injectors are leaking the coolant doesn't have champayne bubbles and with the new water pump its flowing right idk what is going on

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I would just put a OEM Mazda thermostat in. You can order one from Mazdatrix for around $20. There also could possibly be a leak somewhere.