FD3S Oil Leaking
#1
FD3S Oil Leaking
1993 FD3S
Motor is completely stock
5 speed transmission
Well long story short. I wanted to do my oil change today for the FD. I basically bought the oem oil filter and decided to go with 20w50 premium oil. When i jacked the car up i notice their was oil all over the bottom of the car. To be more specific there was oil all over the oil pan and near where the engine and transmission meet. I took a few photos.
Lucky the previous owner saved all of the dealer RO's. I notice this problem has been addressedto the previous owner but not taken care of. Basically the RO states
(Check car is leaking oil on right side ) These are the part number
1 N3A1-10-507 SEAL, OIL WEDGE
1 N3A2-14-293 GASKET, OIL PIPE
1 N3A1-10-502 GASKET FRONT COVER
1 N3C1-13-700 TURBOCHARGER
1 N3A2-13-710 GASKET, TURBO CHARGER
1 N3A1-13-710 GASKET, TURBO CHARGER
From the sounds of it im probably looking at a full rebuild or just some overhauling
Overall the car starts fine and idles perfect. It has a strong pull, turbo spools nice. It throws a little bit of smoke when i start the car but that occurs when the car is cold.
I never did the compression test when i purchase the car. Any feedback....
Motor is completely stock
5 speed transmission
Well long story short. I wanted to do my oil change today for the FD. I basically bought the oem oil filter and decided to go with 20w50 premium oil. When i jacked the car up i notice their was oil all over the bottom of the car. To be more specific there was oil all over the oil pan and near where the engine and transmission meet. I took a few photos.
Lucky the previous owner saved all of the dealer RO's. I notice this problem has been addressedto the previous owner but not taken care of. Basically the RO states
(Check car is leaking oil on right side ) These are the part number
1 N3A1-10-507 SEAL, OIL WEDGE
1 N3A2-14-293 GASKET, OIL PIPE
1 N3A1-10-502 GASKET FRONT COVER
1 N3C1-13-700 TURBOCHARGER
1 N3A2-13-710 GASKET, TURBO CHARGER
1 N3A1-13-710 GASKET, TURBO CHARGER
From the sounds of it im probably looking at a full rebuild or just some overhauling
Overall the car starts fine and idles perfect. It has a strong pull, turbo spools nice. It throws a little bit of smoke when i start the car but that occurs when the car is cold.
I never did the compression test when i purchase the car. Any feedback....
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Put the car up on stands and take some time to clean it thoroughly of any oil. You can do your oil change while your under there....but get it as clean as possible. Then after a day or two get back under it and see if you get a better idea of where it's coming from.
My first suspect would be the oil pan. They are notorious for leaking over time. As long as you watch the oil level, it's nothing that will harm anything but your driveway. But it can be nuisance. Not an expensive job to do yourself if you're ambitious and have some experience wrenching. But it's not a small job. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section with terms like "pan leak" or "oil pan" for more info.
My second suspect would be the turbos. Either an oil line or possibly the turbos themselves.
The only other possiblity is possibly a rear main seal. Not too common but it happens. Easy to check using that inspection access in the picture with the two 10mm bolts. Remove them and stick your finger up on the inside of the bellhousing. If it's full of oil, then it's usually a rear main seal. Again, not espensive if you can R & R the transmission and Flywheel yourself. The seal is only ~ $12.
If that is the original pre-cat on that car, I recommend you get it off and install a downpipe when you can. They've been know to collapse with time and age and can damage the engine and take out the main cat. Heat-coating or header-wrapping the downpipe will also significantly reduce underhood temps. And that's much kinder on plastics, hoses and solenoids. Nice little performance gain too.
If you can't do the work yourself, look around for the rotary specialty shop nearest you. Not too many good experiences on the board from dealerships on these cars. Most of the techs weren't even driving when they were made anyway.
My first suspect would be the oil pan. They are notorious for leaking over time. As long as you watch the oil level, it's nothing that will harm anything but your driveway. But it can be nuisance. Not an expensive job to do yourself if you're ambitious and have some experience wrenching. But it's not a small job. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section with terms like "pan leak" or "oil pan" for more info.
My second suspect would be the turbos. Either an oil line or possibly the turbos themselves.
The only other possiblity is possibly a rear main seal. Not too common but it happens. Easy to check using that inspection access in the picture with the two 10mm bolts. Remove them and stick your finger up on the inside of the bellhousing. If it's full of oil, then it's usually a rear main seal. Again, not espensive if you can R & R the transmission and Flywheel yourself. The seal is only ~ $12.
If that is the original pre-cat on that car, I recommend you get it off and install a downpipe when you can. They've been know to collapse with time and age and can damage the engine and take out the main cat. Heat-coating or header-wrapping the downpipe will also significantly reduce underhood temps. And that's much kinder on plastics, hoses and solenoids. Nice little performance gain too.
If you can't do the work yourself, look around for the rotary specialty shop nearest you. Not too many good experiences on the board from dealerships on these cars. Most of the techs weren't even driving when they were made anyway.
#4
If have a shop In Miami.Pm me for the details.
Charlie
Charlie
Last edited by misterstyx69; 01-25-13 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Took out shop info.NO advertising without consent of Club.
#6
Put the car up on stands and take some time to clean it thoroughly of any oil. You can do your oil change while your under there....but get it as clean as possible. Then after a day or two get back under it and see if you get a better idea of where it's coming from.
My first suspect would be the oil pan. They are notorious for leaking over time. As long as you watch the oil level, it's nothing that will harm anything but your driveway. But it can be nuisance. Not an expensive job to do yourself if you're ambitious and have some experience wrenching. But it's not a small job. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section with terms like "pan leak" or "oil pan" for more info.
My second suspect would be the turbos. Either an oil line or possibly the turbos themselves.
The only other possiblity is possibly a rear main seal. Not too common but it happens. Easy to check using that inspection access in the picture with the two 10mm bolts. Remove them and stick your finger up on the inside of the bellhousing. If it's full of oil, then it's usually a rear main seal. Again, not espensive if you can R & R the transmission and Flywheel yourself. The seal is only ~ $12.
If that is the original pre-cat on that car, I recommend you get it off and install a downpipe when you can. They've been know to collapse with time and age and can damage the engine and take out the main cat. Heat-coating or header-wrapping the downpipe will also significantly reduce underhood temps. And that's much kinder on plastics, hoses and solenoids. Nice little performance gain too.
If you can't do the work yourself, look around for the rotary specialty shop nearest you. Not too many good experiences on the board from dealerships on these cars. Most of the techs weren't even driving when they were made anyway.
My first suspect would be the oil pan. They are notorious for leaking over time. As long as you watch the oil level, it's nothing that will harm anything but your driveway. But it can be nuisance. Not an expensive job to do yourself if you're ambitious and have some experience wrenching. But it's not a small job. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section with terms like "pan leak" or "oil pan" for more info.
My second suspect would be the turbos. Either an oil line or possibly the turbos themselves.
The only other possiblity is possibly a rear main seal. Not too common but it happens. Easy to check using that inspection access in the picture with the two 10mm bolts. Remove them and stick your finger up on the inside of the bellhousing. If it's full of oil, then it's usually a rear main seal. Again, not espensive if you can R & R the transmission and Flywheel yourself. The seal is only ~ $12.
If that is the original pre-cat on that car, I recommend you get it off and install a downpipe when you can. They've been know to collapse with time and age and can damage the engine and take out the main cat. Heat-coating or header-wrapping the downpipe will also significantly reduce underhood temps. And that's much kinder on plastics, hoses and solenoids. Nice little performance gain too.
If you can't do the work yourself, look around for the rotary specialty shop nearest you. Not too many good experiences on the board from dealerships on these cars. Most of the techs weren't even driving when they were made anyway.
im probably going to change the wedge seals while im at it.
But Thanks for the info and support.
#7
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
You don't have to pull the transmission for the pan brace. If the rear main (wedge seal) isn't leaking, why mess with it?
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#8
Thanks for the infom Sgt Blue
Absolutely. While it's no guarrantee, since you have to pull the pan I agree with your friend.... do a pan brace. Not Banzai's but close to five years later, mine's still dry....
You don't have to pull the transmission for the pan brace. If the rear main (wedge seal) isn't leaking, why mess with it?
You don't have to pull the transmission for the pan brace. If the rear main (wedge seal) isn't leaking, why mess with it?
#9
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I also had an oil leak. Oil was all over the oil Pan. So i cleaned it and put dye in the engine oil. It wasn't leaking from the pan. It was coming from the front cover. I wonder how hard it would to fix it. Gonna pull the motor out
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