FD idle and electrical issue
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
FD idle and electrical issue
I'm at my wits end because I hate wiring. I'll try and keep it simple with as much important detail in chronological order over the past year. Installed sake bomb fuel pump harness extension that protects from voltage drop. Followed instructions to the letter double tripple checked. Car wouldn't start. Put the original back on car started just fine. Month or two later. Car started randomly cutting power on the road, backfiring. I'd stop turn it off and it wouldn't start again for a while. Now a year later the car starts but idles rough and backfires. As well as now have a violent parasitic draw and the ac works but the ac lights don't and the head unit doesn't come on.
Parts/test list
Rebuilt to 140amp alternator pushes good
new battery in the trunk tests good
Power fc
Tested all fuses good
changed ratty engine ground wire and idles a little better but still bad
I see the other posts similar to this but can't figure out which is best to listen to.
Parts/test list
Rebuilt to 140amp alternator pushes good
new battery in the trunk tests good
Power fc
Tested all fuses good
changed ratty engine ground wire and idles a little better but still bad
I see the other posts similar to this but can't figure out which is best to listen to.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
even got under and disconnected the starter and then it seemed to have stopped the draw but hooked it back up and it wasn't dropping anymore. Then tried to start and test again at a later date and it started dropping again
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
well dang that makes alot more sense ok 10 Amp mili Amp or ųamp setting and DC right? And what pos an neg to both pins or pos to one or the other an neg to a ground? Thankyou!
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
ok I'll look around for the answer to the rest of those questions thankyou
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
For rough idle and backfires (I assume it's popping rather than backfires), check for vacuum leaks in the UIM area. Another possible cause would be timing/ignition related - a damaged spark plug wire, a bad ignition coil, bad CAS sensor connector (less probable).
You can use a timing light device to check wires/coils.
You can use a timing light device to check wires/coils.
The following users liked this post:
JayroeSpeed (01-08-24)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
c00lduke
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
5
05-12-04 07:13 PM
skunks
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
2
11-20-01 03:34 AM