I just dropped 8 grand into a paint job on my FD, and on the way home the CEL lit up.

After a few miles of the CEL being on it started to gradually lose power. It idles perfectly, and simply has no power over 2000~ or so RPM.

I checked the MAP sensor to see if the hose was good on it, and it is fine.

Any ideas??

Simply a vaccuum leak or boost leak?

My car has oem twins, oem ecu, cold air intake, hi-power exhaust, efini y pipe.

Any help is good, thanks

 

Determine what the CEL is for: http://www.banzai-racing.com/FD&S5_error_codes.htm. If something like the metering oil pump fails, the ECU will go into limp mode.

 

Thanks I appreciate it.

I will post up soon with the code #!

 

Ok I just checked and it's #27 - Oil Metering Pump.

I don't know that much about the pump or how to diagnose it.

Any assistance is GREATLY appreciated!

 

If you intend to own and deal with this car yourself, download the Factory Service Manual (FSM):

http://www.wrex-racing.com/html/fd/9...hop_manual.zip


Start by locating the OMP and check the wiring to make sure it hasn't come in contact with a belt.

 

more importantly $8000 paint job? pictures of it please

 

Yes i have a factory service manual
i followed all the steps and everything checks out fine.

The last step in the fsm says that you should disconnect battery and see if the light still comes on.

I did that and about 5 minutes later it still comes on. It will probably need to be replaced??
Thanks

 

Here is a glimpse of it... Just outside of the shop!

 

still vintage red? love the way it looks in the sun. now you've got almost a complete 99+ FD there complete with the wheels.

 

YAY, OMP fun.

I've replaced one after it threw the OMP position sensor code. In our case that was necessary but the ECU was actually part of the problem. Ended up replacing both.

Your options are:
1) Diagnose the problem, replace the OMP (lots of work but a used OMP is not expensive), and replace your stock ECU. The Mazda FSM does a nice job of showing how to diagnose whether it's the ECU, OMP, or wiring. The upside to this is you don't have to premix and a used OMP and ECU run about $100.

2) Install a PFC or other standalone ECU and religiously add premix oil to your fuel. You can remove/block off the OMP later on when it's convenient for you. The upside is you now have a PFC and it's an easy fix.

David

 

You have verified you have continuity back to the ECU?

 

Although it's a bit more involved you could also run an external oil tank connected to the OMP.

The advantages of this is that you're injecting clean 2 stroke instead of dirty crankcase oil and you won't need to premix each time you fill up.