FD ECU/Harness/Swap issue
12-08-10, 06:38 PM
#1
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FD ECU/Harness/Swap issue
Hey all,
Thanks for not making fun of me or telling me to use the search function, as I have done a lot of searching and I can't fine one person with my issue exactly. Also, I'm a newbie and my feelings are easily hurt
So, I have an originally automatic transmission USDM LHD FD3S with an unknown series JDM 13B TT (obviously) engine and manual transmission ALREADY in the car when I bought it. Previous owner gave me zero information about the car. It did not start when I got it, reason unknown. I have it with a really good "figure it out no matter what" mechanic friend of mine. He has checked spark, fuel, etc and managed to get it running. Compression on both rotors, checked twice, over 100. ECU is labeled N3A2. Igniter chip is labeled N3A1. There is a random black connector coming out of the wiring harness next to the ECU that needs to go somewhere. . .
SO, it runs, but poorly, mechanic says that the front rotor is not running right.
I need help.
Thanks for not making fun of me or telling me to use the search function, as I have done a lot of searching and I can't fine one person with my issue exactly. Also, I'm a newbie and my feelings are easily hurt
So, I have an originally automatic transmission USDM LHD FD3S with an unknown series JDM 13B TT (obviously) engine and manual transmission ALREADY in the car when I bought it. Previous owner gave me zero information about the car. It did not start when I got it, reason unknown. I have it with a really good "figure it out no matter what" mechanic friend of mine. He has checked spark, fuel, etc and managed to get it running. Compression on both rotors, checked twice, over 100. ECU is labeled N3A2. Igniter chip is labeled N3A1. There is a random black connector coming out of the wiring harness next to the ECU that needs to go somewhere. . .
SO, it runs, but poorly, mechanic says that the front rotor is not running right.
I need help.
12-08-10, 09:06 PM
#2
Get/post a picture of said black connector. Most likely, it the cooling system diagnostic connector which does not go anywhere. It can be used for the "fan mod" by grounding it for two minutes while the car is running. With the wire still grounded, turn the car off and the fans will stay on. After 30 seconds, un-ground the wire and the fans switch to low speed. The fans stay on for ten minutes.
Have you tried pulling codes from the ecu?
Have you tried pulling codes from the ecu?
12-09-10, 10:51 AM
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Yes, auto trans codes, one or two solinoid codes and the knock sensor code (auto and knock aren't wired to anything...)
Connector has 20 pins, 2 rows of 10, and every pin is used/has a wire
Connector has 20 pins, 2 rows of 10, and every pin is used/has a wire
Last edited by pele75; 12-09-10 at 11:03 AM. Reason: adding info
12-09-10, 11:14 AM
#4
I think your random black connector goes to the automatic transmission computer. Usually it lives next to the ECU. Is it still there? You don't need that little guy if you have a manual transmission. A picture will confirm it though.
Also, N3A2 is an automatic transmission ECU. Get one for a manual car.
Your automatic transmission ECU might be in limp mode since it looks like your car is halfway through a swap.
Finishing the swap electricals is a good first step.
Also, N3A2 is an automatic transmission ECU. Get one for a manual car.
Your automatic transmission ECU might be in limp mode since it looks like your car is halfway through a swap.
Finishing the swap electricals is a good first step.
12-09-10, 02:26 PM
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I think you are right, will try to get a photo next time I go by the shop.
I am trying to get a manual ECU, which code (NxAx) is most likely to work best?
I am trying to get a manual ECU, which code (NxAx) is most likely to work best?
12-09-10, 06:08 PM
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12-09-10, 10:12 PM
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12-10-10, 01:10 AM
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12-16-10, 03:05 PM
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Ok, so the ECU is in. The plugs and stuff were cleaned following the steps in the link. Here is what is going on. The ECU arrived Monday, on Wed there was no luck starting it, just turned and turned and never caught. This morning, the plugs were cleaned and put in, immediately the car started and ran well, including turbos, everything was good. After idling a few minutes, it was right at that point where it was almost dying and I went to turn up the idle screw. Right before I touched it, it died (not the end of the world you might say). It won't start again. After troubleshooting, the ECU is not putting out any pulses down the wire to the injectors. . . HELP!!! Both my mechanic and I looked at the wiring diagrams and checked everything we could think of, EFI is working, wires going to EFI are carrying enough voltage.
Please
Please
12-17-10, 03:48 PM
#18
Well, if it started and run well, then you have spark, fuel and compression. All good things.
So, according to what you said above, it died while it was idling normally after running normally.
Makes me wonder if it isn't flooded again. Perhaps you have a leaky injector?
So, according to what you said above, it died while it was idling normally after running normally.
Makes me wonder if it isn't flooded again. Perhaps you have a leaky injector?
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