So I went and got this 1987 RX-7 back in May for $600 that probably should have been a parts car:


Between the huge rusty scratch on the left front fender...


and the aftermarket mess in the engine bay...


I probably should have kept my $600 and put it towards something that runs, but instead I decided to buy it (guy said all that was wrong with it was a coolant leak...haha) start pouring money into replacing parts:


A new battery, ignition switch, clutch pipe, clutch hose, air cleaner, and a bunch of diagnostics (jumped/tested starter solenoid, tested ignition switch, tested clutch switch, tested clutch inhibitor switch) later, I'm still left with a car that makes no response to turning the ignition key.

What could be causing this problem at this point? I'm at a loss and I'm not even sure where I could take this car for a professional diagnostic. A dealership nearby just got a White RX-7, same year, all stock with a newly rebuild 13B, and they want $4k for it. It would get me out on the road in a fully stock RX-7 that's pretty much flawless (the sunroof motor sounds like it might need to be replaced soon but that's really all that I could find wrong with it), but a part of me doesn't want to give up on this project that I've already sunk so much into, and another part of me feels like I've already wasted too much time and effort on what should have been a parts car from the start.

I would LOVE to keep both cars but it's simply not feasible in terms of space and budget. That in mind, I'd like some input from this community, either in the form of other areas of the car I could check that might be causing the problem, or opinions on which car I should choose.

Thanks,
-Charlie

 

if i understand, correctly when u turn the key nothing happens? not even lights in the cluster come on?

 

jumper the small pole on the starter to the battery terminal at the starter. be sure the car isn't in gear...

 

I was sleuthing around and popped open the fuse box (the one in the engine bay with 6 fuses) and go figure the main 80A fuse was burnt out. I don't know why I didn't check for burnt fuses 3 months ago but at least now I have something to work off of. Unfortunately it looks like the main fuse is built into the fuse box, so I'll have to replace the whole thing I guess?

I'll update back after I've replaced the fuse/box because I'm sure the car's not going to start at that point seeing at it hasn't been run for about a year and a half now. Thanks for the responses; in answer to the question: yes; nothing happens when I turn the key, not even idiot lights or gauge cluster lights coming on...presumably the burnt out fuse would be the culprit. RotaryEvo: I already tested jumping the solenoid and the starter is just fine; it's just not getting power when I turn the ignition. Again, the burnt fuse seems like a pretty viable explanation. Thanks again for the response though.

 

If you havent already, try cleaning all the grounds especially the ground on the drivers side (LHD) strut tower that is an additional ground for the starter/battery. It always gets full of rust and gunk from the screw that holds it into place sticking into the wheel well. I cleaned that ground along with all others and my voltage increased a good deal on the volt meter. Little things like that are not to be over looked.

 

The Main fuse is bolted in place from the side(10mm bolt on each side of the fuse block) so just unbolt it and it will pull out like the other fuses.

 

cab: thanks for the tip; I will definitely look into that! What tools/cleaning products do you recommend for such a task?

satch: I figured that out a couple hours after posting that last one but it was too late to edit in an addendum. Gonna run to the Hardware store tomorrow and get a replacement.

 

Sorry for the double-post, but I've got an update: battery and main fuse have been replaced and the starter's now kickin' right up. Engine's still not starting so I'm going to work on deflooding and doublecheck to make sure the spark plugs are all properly torqued. I'll update back when progress occurs or if I get stuck again

 

dont forget to check injectors if its flooding. there probably bad.

 

thanks; I'll check those out tuesday or wednesday

 

Still not getting spark; pretty sure I've narrowed it down to the coil w/ ignitors. Tested resistance on high tension leads and they all checked out at 16k~18k ohms. MIGHT need new spark plugs but I've got some old ngks that I cleaned and threw in that look like they should have a little life in 'em. Tested the wires going from the Main Relay to the ECU through the Coils and they were testing around 9V when ignition was on.

Compression seems acceptable; haven't invested in a gauge yet. I'll probably just run my spare engine up to pineapple for a rebuild in October so I'm not going to worry about rebuilding the one that's in there until after I swap it out.

Body still needs a lot of work. Gonna start by working on getting all the hazard and turn signal lights working, then I'll look at brake lights. Flip-ups work great at least. Went ahead and replaced the windshield wiper blades too.

Gonna get my Ignitors tested at a shop, then probably run up to MazToy to get replacements either today or next week some time.

 

replaced the ignitors and I'm getting spark now with the old set of NGKs (I'll get a new set of Platinums or Iridiums once she's up and running...don't want to foul a brand new set by flooding). Still not getting combustion so injectors/fuel delivery system are next on my list. How do I get to the primary injectors? I can get the secondaries out just fine but I can't figure out from the FSM where the primaries are located. I'm guessing I need to remove the fuel injection manifold?

Also, any tips for replacing/cleaning/inspecting the fuel filters, fuel pump, and hoses would be appreciated.

 

The primary injectors are plugged into the engine housing underneath the manifold housing the secondary injectors. You can try a second or two of starter spray into the intake duct and try to start the car. You can also disconnect the fuel hose going into the engine from the fuel filter and place the hose in a jug and turn the engine over and see if gas flows into the jug to at least verify fiel flow into the engine.

 

You have to take the upper intake manifold off to get to the primary injectors. They plug directly into the engine block next to where the lower intake manifold bolts to the block. You could try jumping the fuel system to build pressure. I didnt need to on first start up but it probably wouldve helped.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. I went and bought a corolla and she's been eating all my time and money. Got her running comfortably for now though so I'm finally assessing a budget to rebuild a 13B for this RX-7. I'm thinking OEM apex seals from Pineapple with an Atkins seals and gaskets kit ($770 altogether). Of course first I gotta find a new workshop since my landlord told me I'm not allowed to have any cars or car-related objects on the property (I'm moving ASAP obviously) anymore.

I'll likely update again in 1~3 months once the rebuild's under way. Makin' $9/hr flippin' burgers so it's gonna be a long grind to save up for parts and that's assuming my corolla doesn't crap out on me again.

 

dude before you go building the engine over there is a sensor behind the alternator it has a 2 pin green plug try that if its not to late