Got an 87 FC for $250. Just got it towed to my house. There was no battery in it and the main fuse 80A was blown. Changed the fuse and put in battery.

I didnt try to start it, but i wanted to see if it would crank and get power without blowing the fuse.

Good news is that it will crank, but only SOMETIMES. Turn the key once, itll crank. Turn it again it will just click. There is also no power to the turn signals, but there is to the Emergency blinkers. Headlights work. wipers work. NO POWER TO THE CLUSTER at all....

so......for $250 this isnt a biggie, but just wanna know if anyone had this situation before....maybe a bad CPU? Harness?

 

Have you checked the interior fuses?

For the intermittent starting, you could be looking at this issue: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=solves

Cleaning the battery terminals and the connection at the main fuse can help. The starter circuit is a complicated one, so increases in resistance along the path can keep the starter from seeing enough current.

 

Interior fuses are good. Only the 7.5 meter fuse was missing but replaced. Turn signals and fan work now, but on the warning light panel, only the washer fluid light is on....bulbs are good (checked)....and still no power to the cluster. also no interior lighting....hmmm....

 

check the Illumination fuse for the cluster lighting.
Clean off any Power connections/cables to the battery and starter/engine..PLEASE make sure your battery is not hooked up while you clean any connections!

 

Got the illumination. Dimmer was turned all the way down grrrr... Going to resolder CPU board for the batt light.

Fuel gauge should work with key to start right? Cuz it's not working in start position. Could this have anything to do with the level sensor sitting in 4 year old gasoline? Haha going to drain it and inspect anyways, and that's why I haven't started the car yet...or could the "no warning lights" be ecu related? Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm used to Hondas haha

 

Ya,I'd clean the "Jelly bean Squeezins" out of the tank(4 year old gas) before I even attempted to start the beast up...Lazy man's way is the 14mm nut on the bottom of the tank(passenger side),But the Fuel sock is still in Crap inside the tank,right??
The innards of the tank can be accessed from the Rear hatch.Pull the carpet up and there is a lid with 4 phillips screws(drivers side).You pop that off and the Tank sender unit is right there.
Now,the tank sender unit has 8 phillips screws that are a ***** to unscrew,,Hit them with a GOOD penetrating solution and let it Sit for at least a day before crankin on them..it is a Pain if they break,or get Stripped.

 

Thanks. but what I was wondering was if that's why the fuel gauge on the cluster isn't working with the key in start position.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if the Start position cuts out some of the Circuits so that the Starter is allowed maximum current..Therefore no gauge reading at Start but it should read at ON.
SATCH could tell ya more on this.He's good at this stuff!