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FC Brake master cylinder replacement tips?

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Old May 25, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #1  
Zero10's Avatar
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From: Calgary, Alberta
FC Brake master cylinder replacement tips?

It would appear the brake master cylinder in my FC has bit the dust, and I have ordered a replacement (Dorman M39746 from Rock Auto) which I plan on installing in a couple weeks when it arrives. I have read the relevant section of the FSM for this, but I have a couple of questions about the process:

Page 11-14 of the FSM shows the procedure for adjusting the booster --> master cylinder push rod, however I don't have adjustment gauge 49 F043 001, so does anybody have any tips for performing this adjustment without the special tool? Can I get away just doing some careful measuring?

I know I need to bench bleed the master cylinder first, what do you guys recommend to feed the fluid from the ports back into the reservoir?

Finally, is there anything special I need to know about the process? Any tips or tricks that you guys can share?
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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I finally got the new master cylinder in last weekend. The process was much easier than I expected. From reading around I have read that generally you never have to adjust the pushrod --> master cylinder clearance so I didn't even measure it. As for bench bleeding the master cylinder, it came with some plastic caps in the ports, and instructions to install plugs in the holes then pump the cylinder repeatedly until it doesn't move by hand anymore.
Since I didn't have metal plugs to install I decided to try it by hand. I used one hand to hold all 3 plastic plugs in the holes then pumped the master cylinder using the handle from my pliers (since it is rubber coated and won't damage the pushrod). After 3-4 squishy sucky pushes it suddenly firmed right up. I tilted it back and forth while trying to work the pushrod a few more times until I felt I had all the air out then I used some tape to secure the plastic caps, installed the master cylinder and attached the lines. I know some air got in when I attached the lines (no idea how to avoid this), but it all bled out very easily afterwards. Only had to push about 1 reservoir of fluid through to get all the air bubbles out and now I have a nice and high, rock hard brake pedal.

The only tip I have for anybody else doing this is to put down LOTS of paper towels, brake fluid will leak from every port as you go, and not to over-tighten the brake lines. Its better to leave them slightly looser than you think then snug them up if they leak than it is to over-tighten them and crush the flares.
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:13 PM
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Good info, my brakes are rock hard right now, unfortunately they are not stopping the car. I suspect the problem is the brake booster as well. I had to put the car away last year and didn't get to drive it, brakes were fine then, but this year the pedal is rock hard but very little brakes.

Curious, but what sign did you have that your booster was no good?
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