So i have a 1987 turbo ii and its almost like driving a N/A there is little to no boost. my question is what could be causing this? Possibly a warped turbo Intake? Or bad gasket? and what would be the best way to get to the turbo. Previous owner had said that the "leak" happens before the exhaust hits the turbo. Any suggestions?

 

Possibly the waste gate maybe stuck closed or something. As for getting to the turbo from under the car would be best probably.

 

Ok cool, went to check some of that out today but it wouldn't turn over because of corroded battery terminal "C" clamps. those were replaced and she started right up. Drove around for about ten minutes and parked back in the drive way. The rx7 is not insured so i took my other car to get some gas for the rx7 i filled it up and it wouldn't start. i tried several times but it wouldn't start. The car did sit for about 3 years and doesnt run the greatest. Anything rubber isn't in the best of shape, and I was wondering what i should replace first. main focus is to get her to start every time.

 

Maybe it flooded. Try some atf fluid in each lower spark plug hole and redo all vac lines too

 

Get a syringe and shoot some Engine oil in the lower plug holes to build compression. Search for the unflood procedure and follow all the steps.

 

You never said if when the car was running,If you actually had checked the exhaust system for leaks.
You would be able to hear a distinct leak If the exhaust had a leak around the engine/turbo area.

 

Ok my knowledge on cars is not to great and it was my assumption that it was an exhaust leak, it sounds like a lawnmower, little exhaust comes out the back, someone stole the stereo and you can see and smell the exhaust coming from where the center console is but, like i said i don't know for sure. Is there any suggestion as to how i can check to see if its and exhaust leak?

 

The way I do it is look all around the pipes for holes. Idk of another way

 

Well,One of the ways is to get at it with a piece of hose and Put it to your ear and explore exhaust mating points with the other end.You'll be able to hear it through the hose.(try not to melt the hose..lol!)
If you feel comfortable you'll have to jack up the car and run it,then get under and inspect all bolted parts of the exhaust.
If you go to the exhaust side of the engine(Passenger) and listen to the engine and exhaust you may hear a 'ticky,ticky,ticky' that would be an exhaust leak at the manifold/engine area for example..(OR your fuel injectors,BUT your exhaust would be sealed front to back in that case and only sound would be is at the mufflers!)

 

Ok well ran into more trouble today, the car died and I was coasting about 15mph and tried to "pop the clutch" and it ending up working so I drove it around a little and stopped the car at a stop sign behind another car, the clutch was in and brake in it was still I'm first so before I could give it gas to move the car it started going while clutch and brake were in so I put it into neutral to stop then back into 1st while trying to get her to move "gas in clutch out motion" the clutch stayed to the floor and the car sat. I had my uncle tow me back with good old chain and a truck so the clutch pedal goes in and can only be pulled back by hand and I cant put the shifter in any gears. So obviously a shot clutch or clutch related problem possibly snapped linkage or slave cylinder is shot, have no clue couldn't look into it today but just an update where I'm at. Replaced shifter bushings today and this happens, that's like one step forward eight steps back.

 

there is NO linkage in an FC for the clutch.It is Hydraulic,so you should be checking the Master,the hose and the slave.
Most guys just get the master AND slave because if you put a brand new hydraulic part on a 25 year old system it tends to blow out the other OLD part
Plus the whole shebang is about 100 bucks..give or take.

 

~$100 is defiantly doable so ill check master and slave cylinders tomorrow but what is it that I'm checking for? sorry for being a noob

 

obviously a fluid leak.
But then again the master can go and bleed into itself and create a spongy pedal.
Usually it is the slave though,and if you pinch the rubber boot and it emits fluid you will know it's done.(gone bad)

You really know something is up when the pedal hits the floor and doesn't return.

TIP: Rockauto.com

 

Ok ill get back to you on that tomorrow. Thanks for you help!

 

by the way the Turbo slave and the N/A slave have different mounting points so get the correct one that corresponds to the Transmission you have.(TII or N/A trans)

 

So a little update I fixed the clutch issue with a slave rebuild kit and a new slave hose all about $30. Did a "60,000" mile tune up and replaced all the fluids. The car runs SOOO much better and used to die out when trying to idol but that problem is fixed as well. Boost Problem still stands have had too much going on to get into it. Just wanted to say thanks for all your help guys!