Does my FD need a rebuild???
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Does my FD need a rebuild???
Hi,
I've had my FD since 2003, the previous owner didn't maintain it so when I got it, not being in the know myself I just got in and drove.
You'll have to bare with me as I'm recalling stuff that happened in 2004!
A month down the road the coolant buzzer wont stop annoying me (it started a few weeks after I bought it), I keep topping up the coolant but still it buzzes, I buy a new sensor that attaches at the top of the water filling neck.
Still it buzzes away and uses water. But, theres no white smoke on start up....?
I read a load of stuff online and come to the conclusion that the O ring must have blown/burst gone faulty. Desperately looking for more info I come across a site that talks of a Blockweld fix that can be done on O rings that have gone faulty. It is just temporary though, however the guy who did this kept it going for 2 years!!
Anyway, I did the process a couple of times and it worked fine (i think) for a short while, until the stock radiator blow a leak....whenever I stopped the car, coolant would **** out of the rad.....I bought a new stock radiator which quickly burst, another one, quickly burst again....
Then I bought a big alloy radiator from the US and whoopie it didn't burst.
The damn add coolant buzzer never stopped buzzing so I cut the wire to the bugger..
Shortly after I couldn't afford the expensive insurance or the expensive petrol prices so I considered selling, due to depreciation the 19k that it cost me is now only worth 5 tops, especially with it probably needing a rebuild.
So, I sadly leave it in my car park, it gets vandalised and I pay for a garage for it..
6 years down the road, I don't want to pay for the garage anymore. I consider selling it for whatever I can probably 1k.....but seeing it again makes me want to get it going, its such a hot car afterall we will all agree.
Won't start.... probably due to it being left for 6 years. Now I'm thinking, was the O ring really buggered? there wasn't any white smoke on start up....but realistically I think it probably does....
I have never done a compression test because I was alwys pretty certain it needed a rebuild.
Ok, any of you old RX7 noitalls out there what do you think, I respect all of the time that needs to be put into knowing everything about FDs so hopefully I'll get some good opinions.
I really would appreciate any useful input, thanks.
I've had my FD since 2003, the previous owner didn't maintain it so when I got it, not being in the know myself I just got in and drove.
You'll have to bare with me as I'm recalling stuff that happened in 2004!
A month down the road the coolant buzzer wont stop annoying me (it started a few weeks after I bought it), I keep topping up the coolant but still it buzzes, I buy a new sensor that attaches at the top of the water filling neck.
Still it buzzes away and uses water. But, theres no white smoke on start up....?
I read a load of stuff online and come to the conclusion that the O ring must have blown/burst gone faulty. Desperately looking for more info I come across a site that talks of a Blockweld fix that can be done on O rings that have gone faulty. It is just temporary though, however the guy who did this kept it going for 2 years!!
Anyway, I did the process a couple of times and it worked fine (i think) for a short while, until the stock radiator blow a leak....whenever I stopped the car, coolant would **** out of the rad.....I bought a new stock radiator which quickly burst, another one, quickly burst again....
Then I bought a big alloy radiator from the US and whoopie it didn't burst.
The damn add coolant buzzer never stopped buzzing so I cut the wire to the bugger..
Shortly after I couldn't afford the expensive insurance or the expensive petrol prices so I considered selling, due to depreciation the 19k that it cost me is now only worth 5 tops, especially with it probably needing a rebuild.
So, I sadly leave it in my car park, it gets vandalised and I pay for a garage for it..
6 years down the road, I don't want to pay for the garage anymore. I consider selling it for whatever I can probably 1k.....but seeing it again makes me want to get it going, its such a hot car afterall we will all agree.
Won't start.... probably due to it being left for 6 years. Now I'm thinking, was the O ring really buggered? there wasn't any white smoke on start up....but realistically I think it probably does....
I have never done a compression test because I was alwys pretty certain it needed a rebuild.
Ok, any of you old RX7 noitalls out there what do you think, I respect all of the time that needs to be put into knowing everything about FDs so hopefully I'll get some good opinions.
I really would appreciate any useful input, thanks.
#4
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iTrader: (16)
I don't have a lot of time to write up a long post, but go the 3rd gen FAQ thread stickied in this and the 3rd gen forum, and scroll down to the C section and read the 2 coolant system threads there. I think one of them has a link to a video of someone doing the "champagne test" or champagne bubble test or bubble test. Its an easy way to find out if you have a coolant leak. You just have to be careful about a false positive b/c it sounds like you have air in the system from the coolant running low and that will cause a similar condition as the champagne bubble tests that I'm referring to.
Also do a coolant system pressure test. Any mechanic or radiator shop should have the tool. Chances are more likely that you have a leaky hose or hose clamp that is causing the coolant to leak out. The coolant seals don't just go like that suddenly. Too many people misdiagnose this.
Also do a coolant system pressure test. Any mechanic or radiator shop should have the tool. Chances are more likely that you have a leaky hose or hose clamp that is causing the coolant to leak out. The coolant seals don't just go like that suddenly. Too many people misdiagnose this.
#7
you say you cut the wire to the buzzer? on the fd there is a common problem with the wire breaking to the coolant level sender. it norm breaks around the oil dipstick area. if its broken it will cause the buzzer to go all the timed all you have to do is rejoin it and it will go quite. i had exactley the same thing when i bought mine several years ago once i new were they normaly go i fixed it in 2 mins.
as far as not starting after being stood for a while thats pretty common and you need to track down some guides that will help you. if you havent kept turning it over and firing it up in those 6 years of standing i would say the mota may need pulling apart but at the beggining i would say you had a simple issue.
as far as not starting after being stood for a while thats pretty common and you need to track down some guides that will help you. if you havent kept turning it over and firing it up in those 6 years of standing i would say the mota may need pulling apart but at the beggining i would say you had a simple issue.
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I don't have a lot of time to write up a long post, but go the 3rd gen FAQ thread stickied in this and the 3rd gen forum, and scroll down to the C section and read the 2 coolant system threads there. I think one of them has a link to a video of someone doing the "champagne test" or champagne bubble test or bubble test. Its an easy way to find out if you have a coolant leak. You just have to be careful about a false positive b/c it sounds like you have air in the system from the coolant running low and that will cause a similar condition as the champagne bubble tests that I'm referring to.
Also do a coolant system pressure test. Any mechanic or radiator shop should have the tool. Chances are more likely that you have a leaky hose or hose clamp that is causing the coolant to leak out. The coolant seals don't just go like that suddenly. Too many people misdiagnose this.
Also do a coolant system pressure test. Any mechanic or radiator shop should have the tool. Chances are more likely that you have a leaky hose or hose clamp that is causing the coolant to leak out. The coolant seals don't just go like that suddenly. Too many people misdiagnose this.
#9
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you say you cut the wire to the buzzer? on the fd there is a common problem with the wire breaking to the coolant level sender. it norm breaks around the oil dipstick area. if its broken it will cause the buzzer to go all the timed all you have to do is rejoin it and it will go quite. i had exactley the same thing when i bought mine several years ago once i new were they normaly go i fixed it in 2 mins.
as far as not starting after being stood for a while thats pretty common and you need to track down some guides that will help you. if you havent kept turning it over and firing it up in those 6 years of standing i would say the mota may need pulling apart but at the beggining i would say you had a simple issue.
as far as not starting after being stood for a while thats pretty common and you need to track down some guides that will help you. if you havent kept turning it over and firing it up in those 6 years of standing i would say the mota may need pulling apart but at the beggining i would say you had a simple issue.
#10
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
WOW, that's the first bit of news that I have had that gives me hope....the possibility that my engine doesn''t need a rebuild is good for me, thanks. My only query about your possible scenario is, if I don't have combustion pressure leakinginto thhe coolant, why did 2 stock radiators burst? ok, the aftermarket alloy one hasn't burst...furthermore, I never experienced coolant being pushed out of the bottles, I would imagine that this would happen before things like radiators bursting?
No idea about the radiator. Could it be they were old?
Not having coolant being pushed out the overflow tank/bottle is a good thing.
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