car wont start please help
09-01-09, 02:26 PM
#1
dj aztek
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car wont start please help
he guy's i have a new 13 b 6 port with a street port in my 510 wagon my old 4 port motor it use to turn on. with this motor it just crank but don't start. i even try starting fluid that didn't work. ? lol
the car has all these new part's like.
ngk spark plugs
rb wires
msd 2 blaster coils
water pump
radiator
48 side draft dellorto
cap & rotor
rb full racing exhaust
please help i try everything i could think off.
the car has all these new part's like.
ngk spark plugs
rb wires
msd 2 blaster coils
water pump
radiator
48 side draft dellorto
cap & rotor
rb full racing exhaust
please help i try everything i could think off.
09-03-09, 09:49 PM
#3
dj aztek
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09-03-09, 10:28 PM
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dj aztek
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it sounds like it is so what i do is take off all 4 spark plugs n turn the motor to clean it that dosent work. when car dose start it will idle for the 10 minutes then shut off, and then it wont start. but it seem like it has alot of back preasure cause the water from the radiator will boiling. i just hope i didn't buy a shiti rebuild.
Last edited by alex ruano; 09-03-09 at 10:30 PM.
09-05-09, 06:10 PM
#6
it sounds like it is so what i do is take off all 4 spark plugs n turn the motor to clean it that dosent work. when car dose start it will idle for the 10 minutes then shut off, and then it wont start. but it seem like it has alot of back preasure cause the water from the radiator will boiling. i just hope i didn't buy a shiti rebuild.
09-05-09, 09:12 PM
#7
dj aztek
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it dose both. it gets hot after 10 minutes then water will shoot out through the radiator cap. then the car wont start. the gauges mark 160, 170 thats the one by the water neck and the other by the block close to the heater core or the oil filter marks 270, 280 on after market gauges.
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09-06-09, 06:44 PM
#9
I hate to tell you this, but i think you have a bad coolant seal. If you just had the engine rebuilt, the coolant seal may not have seated right.
I am going to assume those numbers are Fahrenheit and not celsius. The 270/280 sounds way too high, which means your engine is over heating, and bad. Your coolant temps should not get above 205ºF
Does the car loose coolant? Does it smoke when it runs? If so, what color?
You can try to perform a leak down test. I think they sell the testers at auto part stores, but im not sure. You also have to have an air compressor. The tester screws into your spark plug hole, then you pressurize the combustion chamber up to about 85psi or so, and if the pressure all leaks out in a short amount of time, you have problems. When you do the test, have your radiator cap off, and check to see if bubbles are coming out. If they do, then you have a bad coolant seal.
I am going to assume those numbers are Fahrenheit and not celsius. The 270/280 sounds way too high, which means your engine is over heating, and bad. Your coolant temps should not get above 205ºF
Does the car loose coolant? Does it smoke when it runs? If so, what color?
You can try to perform a leak down test. I think they sell the testers at auto part stores, but im not sure. You also have to have an air compressor. The tester screws into your spark plug hole, then you pressurize the combustion chamber up to about 85psi or so, and if the pressure all leaks out in a short amount of time, you have problems. When you do the test, have your radiator cap off, and check to see if bubbles are coming out. If they do, then you have a bad coolant seal.
09-06-09, 09:07 PM
#10
dj aztek
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I hate to tell you this, but i think you have a bad coolant seal. If you just had the engine rebuilt, the coolant seal may not have seated right.
I am going to assume those numbers are Fahrenheit and not celsius. The 270/280 sounds way too high, which means your engine is over heating, and bad. Your coolant temps should not get above 205ºF
Does the car loose coolant? Does it smoke when it runs? If so, what color?
You can try to perform a leak down test. I think they sell the testers at auto part stores, but im not sure. You also have to have an air compressor. The tester screws into your spark plug hole, then you pressurize the combustion chamber up to about 85psi or so, and if the pressure all leaks out in a short amount of time, you have problems. When you do the test, have your radiator cap off, and check to see if bubbles are coming out. If they do, then you have a bad coolant seal.
I am going to assume those numbers are Fahrenheit and not celsius. The 270/280 sounds way too high, which means your engine is over heating, and bad. Your coolant temps should not get above 205ºF
Does the car loose coolant? Does it smoke when it runs? If so, what color?
You can try to perform a leak down test. I think they sell the testers at auto part stores, but im not sure. You also have to have an air compressor. The tester screws into your spark plug hole, then you pressurize the combustion chamber up to about 85psi or so, and if the pressure all leaks out in a short amount of time, you have problems. When you do the test, have your radiator cap off, and check to see if bubbles are coming out. If they do, then you have a bad coolant seal.
Last edited by alex ruano; 09-06-09 at 09:15 PM.
09-06-09, 09:15 PM
#11
dj aztek
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thanks jeff5808 you been a reel help, man these car brings me bad memory's from my turbo it use to the same thing. but this motor wants it get cold it would turn on again and then when it gets hot it shut off by itself. i'm like awwwwwww whit this project already
09-06-09, 10:12 PM
#13
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09-07-09, 12:02 AM
#14
aww man on a good note i test drove the car. man the car drove and felt alot better then my 7 it was very smooth with alot of power. the only thing that suck was that i had to push it back home cause it turn off and would'nt start again ?lol lol can these be true a friend told me that the radiator could probably be bad cause *** soon as the car gets hot it start shooting water thru the radiator cap, real bad he said that it seems like the radiator is working back wares. it seems like its not holding the preasure can this be true. the smoke that comes out the radiator is white and also from the muffler only when i rev the motor but i think it could also be cause i use premix my fuel, and now i have a meter pump i can't remember the name. lol lol
White smoke coming from your exhaust means that you are burning coolant. Black is excess fuel, blue is oil. Does your exhaust have a sweet smell?
As far as the coolant system running backwards, did you use an oem water pump? If the blades on the pump are designed to flow the oposite way of the original one, then your coolant would be flowing backwards. I dont know if thats possible, and Im no mechanic, but thats about the only way I can think a coolant system would run backwards. Unless you set your engine up to spin backward
.Remove your egi fuse, and crank the car, if you see bubbles forming in your coolant, then you most likely have bad coolant seals. Have you had a compression test performed?
09-07-09, 01:16 AM
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dj aztek
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Are you using water or coolant? With temps that high, your coolant boils which causes pressure to build in your radiator to the point that the pressure relief cap vents the excess pressure. Your thermostat could be malfunctioning, the thermostat could be not opening all the way meaning you have less flow of coolant to cool your engine making it overheat. Your radiator cap could also be defective, which would cause it not to hold pressure.
White smoke coming from your exhaust means that you are burning coolant. Black is excess fuel, blue is oil. Does your exhaust have a sweet smell?
As far as the coolant system running backwards, did you use an oem water pump? If the blades on the pump are designed to flow the oposite way of the original one, then your coolant would be flowing backwards. I dont know if thats possible, and Im no mechanic, but thats about the only way I can think a coolant system would run backwards. Unless you set your engine up to spin backward .
Remove your egi fuse, and crank the car, if you see bubbles forming in your coolant, then you most likely have bad coolant seals. Have you had a compression test performed?
White smoke coming from your exhaust means that you are burning coolant. Black is excess fuel, blue is oil. Does your exhaust have a sweet smell?
As far as the coolant system running backwards, did you use an oem water pump? If the blades on the pump are designed to flow the oposite way of the original one, then your coolant would be flowing backwards. I dont know if thats possible, and Im no mechanic, but thats about the only way I can think a coolant system would run backwards. Unless you set your engine up to spin backward
.Remove your egi fuse, and crank the car, if you see bubbles forming in your coolant, then you most likely have bad coolant seals. Have you had a compression test performed?
Last edited by alex ruano; 09-07-09 at 01:19 AM.
09-07-09, 10:32 AM
#18
dj aztek
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09-07-09, 11:50 AM
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you said the car ran well when you test drove it then it died. The symptoms you describe point to radiator problem or thermostat problem or coolant seal leaks. my advice: Install a new thermostat. Make sure the radiator cap is good. check coolant lines for kinks. change the oil - use an oil that wont smoke & is correct for you car, and install new plugs. if you can get it to a rx7 shop have them do a compression test with the proper equipment.
09-07-09, 12:34 PM
#20
dj aztek
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you said the car ran well when you test drove it then it died. The symptoms you describe point to radiator problem or thermostat problem or coolant seal leaks. my advice: Install a new thermostat. Make sure the radiator cap is good. check coolant lines for kinks. change the oil - use an oil that wont smoke & is correct for you car, and install new plugs. if you can get it to a rx7 shop have them do a compression test with the proper equipment.
09-07-09, 03:34 PM
#21
yes i use coolant, im not using a thermostat and it dose have a sweet smell in the exhaust, i have a new water pump from kragen on the compression test i read on haynes book if your using a regular compression piston gage that your suppose to multiply it by 3 is that true . ? i have no idea it sounds to me kinda crazy but im not good with rotary motors, ok i did the compression test on the front rotor it mark 60 on the back it mark 70 em i suppose to multiply it by 3, i have no clue. the guy that sold me the motor said that it was a very high compression motor.
I think the haynes manual means that you need to acount for the fact that there are 3 faces of the rotor for each housing. When you perform a compression test on a rotary with a standard compression tester, you have to either remove the check valve or hold the pressure relief down and try to gauge the health of each rotor as it passes by. If you are getting a max of 60 and 70, the health of the engine can't be too good. Did you perform the test with the engine cold or hot? There can be a huge difference with cold vs. warm engines. 95psi to 105psi would be a healthy engine.
The sweet smell that you describe is the smell of burning coolant. Somehow coolant is entering into your rotor housing, most likely from a failed coolant seal. My guess as to why it dies is that after a few minutes of running, the leak opens up more because it is getting warmer, causing coolant to flood the engine and killing it.
09-07-09, 05:17 PM
#22
dj aztek
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I think the haynes manual means that you need to acount for the fact that there are 3 faces of the rotor for each housing. When you perform a compression test on a rotary with a standard compression tester, you have to either remove the check valve or hold the pressure relief down and try to gauge the health of each rotor as it passes by. If you are getting a max of 60 and 70, the health of the engine can't be too good. Did you perform the test with the engine cold or hot? There can be a huge difference with cold vs. warm engines. 95psi to 105psi would be a healthy engine.
The sweet smell that you describe is the smell of burning coolant. Somehow coolant is entering into your rotor housing, most likely from a failed coolant seal. My guess as to why it dies is that after a few minutes of running, the leak opens up more because it is getting warmer, causing coolant to flood the engine and killing it.
The sweet smell that you describe is the smell of burning coolant. Somehow coolant is entering into your rotor housing, most likely from a failed coolant seal. My guess as to why it dies is that after a few minutes of running, the leak opens up more because it is getting warmer, causing coolant to flood the engine and killing it.