To Buy or Not to Buy
#1
To Buy or Not to Buy
So I'm in the position to purchase a 93 RX-7; it's velocity red with black leather interior and only 77,000 original miles for $11,000. My only concern is that it still has the original motor. From what I've seen most of them have had a rebuild by that time, if not they need one shortly after. Is there anything I should look out for? I just don't want to buy this car only for the apex seals to go bad a week later. Thanks in advance.
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Perform a compression test to judge the internal condition of the engine. If the car has been well maintained, then the engine itself should be fine. The turbo system will likely show multiple failures.
No whether you buy it depends. Are you mechanically inclined? Are you OK owning a high maintenance vehicle? Are you fine with having to probably but $2000 into it after purchase to make it reliable?
No whether you buy it depends. Are you mechanically inclined? Are you OK owning a high maintenance vehicle? Are you fine with having to probably but $2000 into it after purchase to make it reliable?
#5
This is my social media.
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This forum has GREAT information. I advise that you read and take in as much as you can. You won't regret it after having to put that knowledge to use.
#6
Urban Combat Vet
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A compression test is always a good idea. But hard seals aren't the weak spot and neither are turbos...though the sequential system can be finicky.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.
Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.
Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
#7
A compression test is always a good idea. But hard seals aren't the weak spot and neither are turbos...though the sequential system can be finicky.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.
Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.
Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
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#9
Update: Ok so I got some pictures of the dash, and the part that's "cracked" is the slightly dome-shaped cover that's over the instrument cluster. There is actually a decent sized chunk missing, so I would definitely want to replace it. Unfortunately even after searching I wasn't able to find any substantial infromation on this particular piece. I found some "carbon dash kits" that included several other pieces, but I'd like to avoid that route if possible. Futhermore, I don't believe Mazda even manufactures these parts anymore. I guess my question is how hard is it to replace, and where might I be able to find it? Thanks again.
Last edited by 6speedrx; 02-22-12 at 02:41 AM.
#11
Urban Combat Vet
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The only source will be used. A Want To Buy (WTB) in the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section would probably get you one. Not sure how much with shipping. If you get the car, you could try private messaging a member named Fritz Flynn. Trusted source for parts like that.
#12
If it's fast I'm There
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It's been a few years since I messed with the dash hood, but IIRC you have to remove the lower dash panel, steering column cover and the HVAC panel. The hood then slides rear-ward. It's not hard, but you have to go slow because the plastics are fragile.
The only source will be used. A Want To Buy (WTB) in the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section would probably get you one. Not sure how much with shipping. If you get the car, you could try private messaging a member named Fritz Flynn. Trusted source for parts like that.
The only source will be used. A Want To Buy (WTB) in the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section would probably get you one. Not sure how much with shipping. If you get the car, you could try private messaging a member named Fritz Flynn. Trusted source for parts like that.
I did a 20 second search and found you the instructions for removing the dash hood and you DO NOT have to remove the HVAC panel.
I had a TWO PAGE checklist when I went to check out my current car (third 3rd Gen). When I left I THOUGHT I knew exactly how much it would cost to restore. I was WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How to remove the dash hood:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...move+dash+hood
#13
1.5 Goodfella's Tall
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The main issue when removing the dash hood is that many people push them in too far locking the clips into a position past where they were intended to go which leads to breaking the hood. When putting a hood in be very gentle until it "clicks" and you can get them out super easy.
The Ebay carbon fiber ones fit like ***...trust me.
You can get them new from Ray @ Malloy Mazda who hooks up FD owners or you can buy used typically for about $200.
The Ebay carbon fiber ones fit like ***...trust me.
You can get them new from Ray @ Malloy Mazda who hooks up FD owners or you can buy used typically for about $200.
#14
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If it were me, I'd be making a buying decision expecting a rebuild sooner rather than later - that's a lot of miles on an original engine
Definitely compression test before making any decision but make sure the compression test is carried out with the proper rotary compression tester not a modified piston engine compression tester
Definitely compression test before making any decision but make sure the compression test is carried out with the proper rotary compression tester not a modified piston engine compression tester
#15
How to remove the dash hood:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...move+dash+hood
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...move+dash+hood
I managed to talk the seller down to $9,500, so I think I'm gunna do it. The only thing I'm concerned about is it's located 700 miles from where I live; I just hope it can get all the way home without anything breaking .
#18
If it's fast I'm There
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=transport
#19
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Sounds like a good deal if the rest of the car is in good shape. If you are driving out you should bring something with a trailer as a backup. Or you could be just fine. Lots of options. Good luck.
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