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Old 02-19-12, 01:23 AM
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To Buy or Not to Buy

So I'm in the position to purchase a 93 RX-7; it's velocity red with black leather interior and only 77,000 original miles for $11,000. My only concern is that it still has the original motor. From what I've seen most of them have had a rebuild by that time, if not they need one shortly after. Is there anything I should look out for? I just don't want to buy this car only for the apex seals to go bad a week later. Thanks in advance.
Old 02-19-12, 10:43 AM
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Engine, Not Motor

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Perform a compression test to judge the internal condition of the engine. If the car has been well maintained, then the engine itself should be fine. The turbo system will likely show multiple failures.

No whether you buy it depends. Are you mechanically inclined? Are you OK owning a high maintenance vehicle? Are you fine with having to probably but $2000 into it after purchase to make it reliable?
Old 02-19-12, 02:49 PM
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Thank you. And I have no problem owning a high maintenance vehicle; I expect it actually. I owned an SVT focus that I had to dump 7,000 into in 2 years, after that I owned an RX-8. This howevor will be my first turbocharged car.
Old 02-20-12, 03:13 PM
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Your always going to have problems, but that is part of the fun. Something brakes, upgrade!
Old 02-20-12, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 6speedrx
Thank you. And I have no problem owning a high maintenance vehicle; I expect it actually. I owned an SVT focus that I had to dump 7,000 into in 2 years, after that I owned an RX-8. This howevor will be my first turbocharged car.
Ugh, I'm sorry to hear that. You'll be very pleased with an FD.

This forum has GREAT information. I advise that you read and take in as much as you can. You won't regret it after having to put that knowledge to use.
Old 02-20-12, 03:55 PM
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A compression test is always a good idea. But hard seals aren't the weak spot and neither are turbos...though the sequential system can be finicky.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.

Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
Old 02-22-12, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dwb87
Ugh, I'm sorry to hear that. You'll be very pleased with an FD.

This forum has GREAT information. I advise that you read and take in as much as you can. You won't regret it after having to put that knowledge to use.
Ahh the Focus wasn't that bad. It was the European version so it came with Recaro seats and overall was a really good-handling car lol. Anyways this forum definitely seems awesome. It's packed with information and everyone seems pretty friendly. I look forward to my stay here .

Originally Posted by Sgtblue
A compression test is always a good idea. But hard seals aren't the weak spot and neither are turbos...though the sequential system can be finicky.
Even a well-maintained FD will likely have a coolant seal failure around 100k miles. Other things needed by 70k are pillow-ball suspension bushings.
If the car is original stock with a sound body and clean interior, it's probably worth it. I suggest looking for signs the owner has pulled aftermarket stuff and replaced it will OEM....intercoolers, boost controllers, intakes etc. Nothing inherently wrong with that, but can give you insight on who you're dealing with and true history of the car.

Read thru the "Buying" stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on what to look for. And unless the color was changed, it's VINTAGE Red.
This is exactly the response I was looking for . Thanks a bunch! As for the condition of the car, I believe the only mod it has now is an HKS down pipe; but who knows what could have been on there before. There's a small crack in the dash and a tear in the drivers seat. It was professionally repainted 2 years ago, and apparently it's been in the same family since new. I'm gunna go ahead and deduce that it's a fairly solid buy. I expect it to need money, I just wanted to know what to look out for. I'll make sure to keep everyone updated on the process.
Old 02-22-12, 02:31 AM
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77k on the original motor? I'd offer 8k for the car expecting to need a rebuild. Throw in another $1000-$1500 for replacing all of the stock bushings. Make sure reliability mods are done...then go to town!
Old 02-22-12, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gringo Grande
77k on the original motor? I'd offer 8k for the car expecting to need a rebuild. Throw in another $1000-$1500 for replacing all of the stock bushings. Make sure reliability mods are done...then go to town!
Yeah it's on the original motor, that was my primary concern. I offered 10 and he was fine with that; but after learning more I think something in the 9,000 range seems more aproppriate.

Update: Ok so I got some pictures of the dash, and the part that's "cracked" is the slightly dome-shaped cover that's over the instrument cluster. There is actually a decent sized chunk missing, so I would definitely want to replace it. Unfortunately even after searching I wasn't able to find any substantial infromation on this particular piece. I found some "carbon dash kits" that included several other pieces, but I'd like to avoid that route if possible. Futhermore, I don't believe Mazda even manufactures these parts anymore. I guess my question is how hard is it to replace, and where might I be able to find it? Thanks again.

Last edited by 6speedrx; 02-22-12 at 02:41 AM.
Old 02-22-12, 02:59 AM
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Your cheapest bet would be to source a used one locally. The dealership may actually have them in stock... But it'll cost you.
Old 02-22-12, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 6speedrx
...... I guess my question is how hard is it to replace, and where might I be able to find it? Thanks again.
It's been a few years since I messed with the dash hood, but IIRC you have to remove the lower dash panel, steering column cover and the HVAC panel. The hood then slides rear-ward. It's not hard, but you have to go slow because the plastics are fragile.
The only source will be used. A Want To Buy (WTB) in the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section would probably get you one. Not sure how much with shipping. If you get the car, you could try private messaging a member named Fritz Flynn. Trusted source for parts like that.
Old 02-22-12, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
It's been a few years since I messed with the dash hood, but IIRC you have to remove the lower dash panel, steering column cover and the HVAC panel. The hood then slides rear-ward. It's not hard, but you have to go slow because the plastics are fragile.
The only source will be used. A Want To Buy (WTB) in the 3rd Gen. Parts for Sale section would probably get you one. Not sure how much with shipping. If you get the car, you could try private messaging a member named Fritz Flynn. Trusted source for parts like that.
You should really spend about TWO SOLID days searching the forum BEFORE your purchase. The dash hood is becoming harder and harder to source. I would find out EVERYTHING in need of replacing and check the forum for prices so you have more negotiation power. If it is a ONE owner car and he/she has done a good job of keeping up on the maintenance you may have a good deal on your hands, the fewer mods the better.

I did a 20 second search and found you the instructions for removing the dash hood and you DO NOT have to remove the HVAC panel.

I had a TWO PAGE checklist when I went to check out my current car (third 3rd Gen). When I left I THOUGHT I knew exactly how much it would cost to restore. I was WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How to remove the dash hood:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...move+dash+hood
Old 02-22-12, 08:00 PM
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The main issue when removing the dash hood is that many people push them in too far locking the clips into a position past where they were intended to go which leads to breaking the hood. When putting a hood in be very gentle until it "clicks" and you can get them out super easy.

The Ebay carbon fiber ones fit like ***...trust me.

You can get them new from Ray @ Malloy Mazda who hooks up FD owners or you can buy used typically for about $200.
Old 02-24-12, 01:49 AM
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If it were me, I'd be making a buying decision expecting a rebuild sooner rather than later - that's a lot of miles on an original engine

Definitely compression test before making any decision but make sure the compression test is carried out with the proper rotary compression tester not a modified piston engine compression tester
Old 02-25-12, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by NVMYRX-7
Thanks man. I was searching under dash pieces/parts, etc; I wasn't aware that there was a techincal term for it haha. Forntunately I can get anything that's still available from Mazda at employee rate. Finding what I need will be the fun part.

I managed to talk the seller down to $9,500, so I think I'm gunna do it. The only thing I'm concerned about is it's located 700 miles from where I live; I just hope it can get all the way home without anything breaking .
Old 02-25-12, 01:08 AM
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For 9,500 it sounds like a good deal...post some pics if u get it...good luck
Old 02-25-12, 11:27 AM
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If you're looking for an FD, spend some time reading the 3rd gen FAQ thread and the 2 Buyer's Guides in there. That will give you a good baseline of information to make an informed decision.
Old 02-27-12, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 6speedrx
I managed to talk the seller down to $9,500, so I think I'm gunna do it. The only thing I'm concerned about is it's located 700 miles from where I live; I just hope it can get all the way home without anything breaking .
I had mine trailered to me with zero issues. They called me when they arrived at the cars location, after it was loaded, during the trip, and again when they arrived in my local town. Check out this thread for more details. The cost was under $500.00 IIRC, or you can get a Premier AAA membership. They will tow up to 200 miles. If you make it 500 miles it will be clear sailing.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=transport
Old 03-01-12, 12:13 PM
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Sounds like a good deal if the rest of the car is in good shape. If you are driving out you should bring something with a trailer as a backup. Or you could be just fine. Lots of options. Good luck.
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