aznbo0204

Hey I'm new to this forum but I've been around cars for years now but new to rotaries. I plan on getting an 93 FD sometime soon within the next 3-5 years. When I get the car I plan on getting 13B-REW stage 2 with street port. I also plan to swap out the transmission to a T-56 GMC transmission. My question is I know that people have done this and I have done some research and just wanted to clarify. Does T-56 directly bolts in using an adapter plate and how much different would the wiring harness be for this swap and engine upgrade?

I've done engine swaps and wiring before so I'm not new to this. I just want to know what I'm about to get myself into.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

"Stage 2" really doesn't mean anything except to the person doing the porting. Their "stage 2" could be someone else's "stage 4" or another porter's "stage 1".

As for the transmission, why? The stock transmission is PLENTY strong enough to handle whatever power you intend to build with the 13B.

aznbo0204

Thanks for the reply. Do you know the point of failure range, like the around what HP the clutch begins to slip? I was planning on switching to T-56 because I have read that it will hold through virtually everything that I might end up doing and parts are easier to come by.

For the engine, this is what I have listed in my notepad for now.

13B Stage 2 Street Port Built Motor
New Seals, Bearings, O-Rings, Gaskets, Springs
Shimming Eccentric Shaft
Upgrade Corner Seal Springs
High flow Oil pressure regulator
Competition oil seal springs
New Rotor Housings
New Oil Pump+Chain
High flow main bearings
New side housings
Side Housing Lapping
Rotor Housing Cooling modification
E-Shaft Oil Jets
Oil Passage enlarged
Steel braided oil metering pump lines
New Rotors
ALS Apex Seals(2mm or 3mm? Steel or ceramic?)
Rotor Clearancing
Cryogenic tempering
Engine coatings

Maybe RX-8 e-shaft? but I don't really see a need for that.

Any criticism is welcomed since it will point me to where I went wrong. Flame me for this or whatever. This is why I'm taking 3 years to do as much research on the car as I can.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

The FD transmission, properly maintained (change the gear oil every once in a while) is pretty robust. I have a friend with 425 whp who drags (with slicks) AND tracks it frequently. He went through clutchs (until he went with a multi-disc carbon clutch) but not transmissions. For a streeted/occasional track car it's also geared properly for the 13b REW and differential. Not certain about the T-56.
If you're intending to do 4k launchs the transmission probably won't be the weak point.

*I'm not sure what "Shimming the Eccentric Shaft" even means.
*There's no need for new rotors if the old ones aren't damaged in some way.
*I'm not sure what "engine coating" is.
*Likewise "rotor clearancing"? AFAIK, they aren't clearanced, the hard seals are.
*Cryo treatment....meh. Sounds great, big promises but real benefits are unproven IMO.
*RX8 e-shaft is identical to the FD e-shaft with the exception of a few ounces in weight due to two addition holes drilled in the lobes. Since there is so little distance from center on those lobes, IMO the money spent on that is essentially wasted unless this will be a no-holds-barred pure track car designed to live at stratospheric RPMs.
*Choice of seals is your call. Search in the rotary performance section for info, wear characteristics (both the seals themselves and to the housings), tolerance to knock, sealing ability etc etc. and make your own decision

aznbo0204

How available are the parts if I need to replace anything? Glad to know that the stock transmission is good. 425whp is about the high side for track/drift build since I'm looking at somewhere around 350-400 whp range.

aznbo0204

Posted wrong info earlier for question. What point would I have to worry about gears going bad not clutch slipping. I'm running on 2 hours of sleep -.-

aznbo0204

Correct me if I'm wrong with this information.
Apex seals are used to prevent damage to the rotor housing if I have read correctly. 3mm would be stronger because its "bulkier" which means it will require more force to deform/fracture the seals but not all models can use 3mm and would have to have the rotors machined. Ceramics wear slower than the normal seals. So if I'm aiming for around 350-400whp range, 2mm ceramic would be the better choice?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Entire used transmissions are readily available, and I've never heard of anyone having problems getting parts for a rebuild. If you want a shorter 5th gear look for a JDM transmission which is identical with that one exception.
For how to do a rebuild this might help...... http://www.davidgeesaman.com/

Getting back to your T-56 question, and in full disclosure there is this thread.........https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=transmission but even HC admits it's expensive and he's talking 500 whp. So YRMV.

aznbo0204

Thanks a lot for the info. I just added all the info into my notepad with the links. I have about 5-6 different links from this site about the T-56 swap but they are broken up information here and there. If the stock is readily available then my first choice will be the stock transmission with JDM 5th gear.

I had T-56 as first choice because it was bolt on with adapter and parts are available. The second choice was the S4 TII transmission but parts are more scarce for those and then stock because most of the stock ones I have found are automatic. I don't know why I overlooked the stock transmission and I know its stupid of me to do that but I will do more research on it.

Bryan Jacobs

iTrader: (66)

for only 350-400 whp you dont need most of the stuff on your engine list, this can be done with a nearly stock engine, besides the engine mods you want it would cost you probably 7k just for the block.you do not need ceramic apex seals or 3mm seals for an engine with under 400hp. I know people running 10's in the quarter (pushing over 400 whp) with the stock transmission.

aznbo0204

I know the engine is a bit over the top. I want to be on the safe side since I come from piston type engines. ~400 hp is where the engine would need to be modified to withstand the power. I want to build the engine in case in the future I want to break into 450+ whp range and I wouldn't have to drop the motor out again.