i also have a new rebuilt on a 12A FB any tips on how to break it in properly?? its bridgeported if thats of any help..i do notice tho that at idle 1700 (real HIGH) my oil pSI is at about 50? normal or something funny??? once again any input is much appriciated!!

 

i think your idle should be at about 1000-1200 for a BP. oil PSI sounds about right though

 

Depends I guess but my half bridge sits around 1380 to 1400rpm. Break in? I used to think a long break in was required however I've seen plenty of rotaries get beat on from the minute it was started and they seem to last just fine

 

i was wondering cause if i drop idle too much she leans out 1500 is about as close as i can adjust for rt now. Also it will be a daily driver for a while anything particular i shoule expect from the bridgprt style porting??? for one i dont mind the noise or ruff idle ITS SEXY sounds like she always ready to hand some one a piece of ther own A**!!!!! but driving wise i keep hearing how bad it might be... SO my ? is how bad is BAD???

 

Just drive it and find out. Fuel mileage is going to suck a fat one also depending on clutch it will also play a big factor. If you have a 3-6 puck it's going to be like an on off switch wich can get fun but all thing you will learn to get use to.

 

Breaking in a rotary is essential to the life of the engine. However I would know nothing about how to do such a procedure, so just search in the Technical section. I do know not breaking it in properly can blow the engine after only a couple thousand miles.

 

nonsense, I mean I'm not advocating not doing it but I've seen plenty of motors last a long time without it.

 

now fuel wastage we talking V8 bad or V6 bad OR srtaight AIRPLANE BAD???

 

also wat type of situations besides THE MAN will i be facing used a bridge port as a daily driver of course ( weather conditions being in desent shape) NO SNOW drive at all... only on dry pavement

 

any engine builder will tell u to give the engine a breakin period, rotary or otherwise. it allows seals, piston rings, etc time to seat properly. everyone has their opinions on breakin. but if u beat on it from the first startup and several hundred or thousands of miles down the road it fails, u really wont know if it's from a lack of breakin or a bad build. mine is only streetported. and it's cold natured during the winter months. it's got between 40-50k on it. my breakin was keeping it under 4k for the first 500 miles. after that i increased the revs and load for the next 500. then after that, occasional runs to redline during the next 1k. after putting 2k miles on it, more periodic runs thru the gears at wot. by the time i was able to take it thru the 8th mile i had done put 8500 on it. so it's really up to u wheather u give it some breakin miles or not. as for daily driving it, i drive mine yr round. winters here i'm sure isn't as bad as what u'll experience. it's all about what ur willing to live with as for how the bridgeport will act during those cold months.

 

About 2 months ago a gentlemen here on the forums brought me his newly acquired FD for a smog check, with only 2000 miles on a fresh rebuild done by Rick's Rotary.

Long story short, engine was blown due to improper break-in. This was verified by my shop neighbor Paul 30+ year Master Mazda Technician and owner of Rotorsports.

I am not saying this is the case for everyone; this was probably a rare occurrence, but why chance it? I think it is vital to break an engine in properly whether it is a rotary or not.

 

with a bridgeport, we are talking about airplane bad, the rotary is already v8 bad on a regular port with slight mods, so bridgy is a huge amount of fuel. not recommended for daily driving, track only

 

based on wat you know, BESIDE bad fuel consumption wil the engine get damaged from daily driving conditions. Or are my pockets gonna feel the pain!!!!

 

also when she drving under 4-5 RPM almost acts like she wants to stall out wen u hit the gass, but over 5 Gran shes a totally diffenet story.. COuld this be a bad engine build or a carberator not being tuned properly???

 

once u get ur post count up enough to get to other sections of the forum, get out of the new member section. lots of those that can really help don't come here. there's lots of ppl that r running bridgeports and can be more help. u should be able to drive it under 4k. it may be a jetting issue. what carb u running? go to the 1st gen technical section.

 

Answering your question, I don't recommend daily driving not because you can damage the engine but because it is a pain in the *** to drive at low rpms because like you said that under 4k it seems like it wants to turn off is because it bridgeport has a lot of lapping and that gives it a bad idle. You could check the jetting but I think it is just the bridgy being a bridgy=bad idle. It only performs well over 5k

 

You'll see widely differing opinions on breaking. My personal one is to drive the car easily for the first 500 miles, then proceed to beat the **** out of it.

Now I can't help you with your carb issues since I don't use the things, but I can offer this advice.

If you wish to drive your bridgeported car on a daily basis, then you need fuel injection. A carb won't cut it. 90% of the bad press and myths about bridgeports (some of which are repeated in this thread) are due to the days of carbureted bridgeports. A tunable EFI system can cure all these problems except the poor around-town fuel mileage.

 

No doubt i hear you guys but for now i have no option im running a Holly 650 racing beat Carberator. i also thing its a timing and /or jetting issue PLUS the carb has all kinds of stuff not adjusted correctly. for example the link that opens the carb a high RPM for the second 2 barrels isnt there so i believe that is causeing problems as well.