Hello, i've had this b&m new volt for quite some time. I've searched quite a bit for a 2nd gen specific installation how-to but to no avail.
Not necessarily looking for an extravagant write up. Really any info you could share on this product used in a 2nd gen is greatly appreciated.

If my post is in the wrong area of the forum or would be benefited by being moved that would also be appreciated.

 

?..exactly what is that gadget..what does it do?
(not familiar with it.)

 

yes, please elaborate, never heard of it

 

It's an ignition amplifier B&M new volt hpi(discontinued product. ) 18/20v option. It Is not a "multi spark" like a msd, it just delivers a cleaner higher volt spark.

I see write ups on installation on various different forums for different platforms but all info is rather vague.

There are 3 main wires which is my concern and confusion. Ground, input and output. So following a guide from other ignition amplifiers such as hks, Jacobs, msd, etc hasn't brought much light on my situation.

I've wired it in just about every which way on the leading coil. But every which way I've wired it in it's put the 18volts through the 12v resistor in the coilpack. I guess what I should have asked is: is it safe to run 18 or 20v spark without the coilpacks resistor in the circuit? The internals of the b&m are epoxy sealed so I can't quite tell what the internals of the darn thing are.

 

If my understanding of this product is correct, it operates just like a Boost-A-Pump. So the input wire goes to switched 12v+ (from the stock coil connector) and the output wire goes to the coils (where they'd normally be fed switched 12v+)

 

Thanks for the reply however that is a given, should I splice into the switched 12v wire for the coil? Connect the switched 12v to the "boost-a-pump" and then back to the coil with the output wire of the ign amplifier? Would I run the output wire of this device through the coil or to the igniter?
I've still got the concern of running 18/20v through the stock 12v resistor in the coilpack.

 

I'm pretty sure there is no 'resistor' inside the coil/igniter package. As for wiring them, it's always been my prerogative to make modifications reversible should it not work as desired. With that in mind, what I would do is cut the Switched 12v wire that feeds the coils about 3" from the connector, then add a new connector that routes through the booster amp and back. Make sure that you are only feeding the coils the boosted voltage and nothing else. Stock ECUs and Body CPUs don't like to see above 15v, it burns them out.

As for the effects of boosted coil voltage, I don't really know what could happen, Aaron Cake or maybe Styx would be more knowledgeable here. But if I were to speculate, I'd say higher power output (remember Watt's law), but the boosted voltage would shorten coil life as well. The closest analog to this I know of is from James May's Toy Stories: The Great Train Race. One train was run on 18v instead of 12v and while being a bit faster, it basically cooked itself.

 

Thank you Akegi, the topgear reference made me smile hopefully Styx or Aaron will chime in here.

I do believe that is the first way I wired this in. But no visual differences in spark

(Noob question, what would be an acceptable website to post images on in order to obtain a URL for said images?)

 

Photobucket works. Another option is to put them in your own member album here, via the Quick Links menu. As for spark output, this is above my head and I'm not really qualified to make an informed opinion as of yet. Definitely Aaron Cake's forte though

 

There is a resistor in series with the coil in the ignitor, but of course since you are driving the coil directly then that shouldn't be an issue.

Normally these ignition boxes connect between the ignitor and coil. Box outputs go to coil, then the trigger wire (uh...pink?) from ignitor triggers the box.

Coil shouldn't have too much of an issue with increased voltage. Most of the CDI boxes (ie. Crane HI-6) buck the voltage up to 300V or so anyway. Mine has been running like that for, oh, 17 years.

Now whether you will notice any improvement is another story. I doubt you will, unless you have issue with high boost and rich AFRs blowing out spark.

 

Pink wire: the trigger wire, could that also be my power wire for the amplifier?
Tan wire: should be the wire I put the amplifiers output to. Correct?
Tan wire: on my coil the tan wire is branched on the resistor.
I simply wire the amplifier after the resistor to bypass it?

Thanks for chiming in, I somewhat "fan girled" at first haha

 

The amplifier will require it's own power, generally from the battery or other high current source (don't forget the fuse).

I had to Google up a picture of a leading coil to figure this out as my memory is a bit fuzzy on the colours.

There are likely two outputs on the amplifier; coil and ground. Connect the coil output to where the tan wire was on the coil (marked with a + I believe) and the ground to the other terminal.

Connect the input of the amplifier to the tan wire out of the ignitor that previously went to the coil.

Now there is probably another wire which is used to turn the unit on, which gets connected to +12V key switched. Use the black/yellow wire at the leading coil, body side of the harness connector.

That's my best guess. I can't seem to find instructions for the thing.

 

Alas! A bit of clarification.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/xs-engineering-ignition-amp-install-430980/

Unfortunately, now I'm occupied with trying to sort out my ecu and transmission problem.

So, this thread is probably junk for most but perhaps gold for others, upon install with expected results I'll follow up for a true 2nd gen install even if it is just re-labeling some wires and providing pictures of this century.

Thanks for the help.

 

Ah, so the wire colours are the same as the Crane and MSD boxes then.

 

I'm pretty sure that when I had my MSD installed I did not use a switched 12 volts.
It is only in use really when the car's ignition is on and the ignition needs to use it,so it won't draw power.
I never had a problem with my setup this way.