billet

iTrader: (2)

I've converted, I use to take my Celica out to Thunderhill and Laguna Seca when not doing AutoCross but now I sold that to have real fun.

I picked up a Silver 93 FD off this forum two years ago and I'm now getting ready to take the car to AutoCross and eventually the track.

My father (coldfeet) also has a Black 93 FD with an assortment of mods, particularly the Axiom harness bar and Schroth harness belts (i bought him).

What I am looking for is some advice, without flames, that would get me thinking in the right direction to set this car up right.

It is completely stock with just over 50k miles, original engine.

PoorCollegeKidd

iTrader: (2)

Before anything, take care of the reliability mods (regular maintenance, DP, Fuel filter, Radiator, IAT relocation, Boost and water temp gauges, PFC etc.) you can get a list in the FAQ sections. Once those are taken care of, then it's time to focus on the good stuff! There is a known issue with the baffle in the gas tank (on right turns I think it was, without more than a half tank there was a real good chance of leaning out), but I believe there is now an aftermarket one that you can that you can drop in without having to drop the tank.
Once all that money is gone and you are ready for more, post up again and the Auto-X guys can help you focus your mods to whatever racing you are after! Good luck!

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I do a fair amount of events in my FD. SFRSCCA.org for autox.

Start by reading the FAQ thread to get started.

bhop

iTrader: (1)

There are plenty of people who have many setups for these type of events. I would start with a set of tires then after you get a better feel for what needs to be improved, try new sway bars, then coilovers....

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you want to be serious about autocross, you'll need to review the rules for A Stock and ASP classes. Since you intend to do track time I'd suggest skipping the stock class rules but get to know ASP rules. The stock configuration FD just runs too hot for it's own good on the track.

Start by making it reliable:
- install a downpipe
- install a SMIC
- replace the radiator and AST with an all-aluminum one
- replace all cooling hoses
- replace the check valves and any vacuum hoses that have gotten hard. Use good quality silicone hose and viton-elastomer check valves.
- check that the pillowballs in the suspension are good. Ditto for the diff bushings, motor mounts, trailing arm bushings, and rear toe link bushings.
- replace the engine oil, trans fluid, and diff fluid
- bleed brakes and rebuild the calipers if the dust seals look crusty
- new street tires. I'd recommend a set of good autocross street tires like the RE-11, Direzza Z1 Star Spec, Ecsta XS, or Advan AD-08.
- optionally, a cold air intake kit and cat-back system are a good idea. So is an Apexi PowerFC ECU.
- make sure the boost is working correctly, install a boost controller since excess boost blows motors.
- with the track time you mention, a set of track brake pads for track days.
- get your alignment set to the pettitracing.com "short track" setup. It's not as responsive as the autocross setup but it's very versatile.

Then after you get a couple of seasons on the basic setup you get into the autocross and track time you can consider other things like suspension upgrades (could be as simple as a set of Eibach Pro-kit springs or as elaborate as fully adjustable sway bars and adjustable coilovers). Wider wheels with race tires, lighter flywheel, and more power.

billet

iTrader: (2)

I must admit I was a bit hesitant that I would receive much information in the newbie section. Everyone posted good info and in combination with the FAQ section, I am definitely putting together a good list of things to do purchase and install in phases.
It is good to see from the list above that I am off to the right start. I have picked up the gas tank mod and just put on Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires.
I will work on the list I am putting together and post it back shortly if anyone wants to check my work.
I do have a question though regarding some of these parts. Example: Gauges; I received the three pod central speaker system (prosportgauges.com) and decided to purchase a boost, water temp and oil temp gauge. What items do I need to hook up the gauges to each spot on the car? Hoses, wires, harness, etc.

I ask this because the frustrating part is while finding all the parts is good, I've seen how-to guides but in not every example does it tell you the parts you need from dest. A to dest. B.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

With the couple of gauges I've bought the connections came with the gauge.

Are you missing pieces with the gauges?

David

billet

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered the gauges, so we will see, maybe I am jumping ahead. I am just noticing a variety of parts and ideas that I am researching require specific harnesses and fittings that are necessary for what you are trying to do. I am trying to avoid tearing apart the car only to realize I forgot a 50-cent gasket and it is on backorder. ;o)

What is a good silicon hose kit these days? I am noticing vendors listed in the forum are not all around anymore. :o( Widefoot Swaybar Mounts, Widefoot Pedal Bracket, etc. I also am looking for the person in Florida that handles the check valves. Do you know who he is?

Do you know a good spot to find a Pillow Bushings Set (in case I need to replace them) and what your thoughts on the Two Stroke Reservoir setup?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Most gauges have what you need. I'd search the 3rd gen forum for "install water temp" for example to see how others have done it. Some people put a tee in a coolant hose, others tap into a cooling passage, I personally removed a pipe plug on the water pump housing. Boost gauge is easier since there's a blank nipple on the passenger side of the UIM. Oil temp I haven't done yet but I believe there is a place on the driver's side of the oil pan.

Dale Clark can get you check valves although I've also seen them elsewhere. I still buy my silicone from Baker Precision. I'm not sure if Hose Techniques is still around but they made decent stuff. David Breslau still makes widefoot swaybar brackets or you can buy the Mazdaspeed reinforced ones. You can get to David by PM'ing him at widefootracing.

I personally have not worried much about the OMP, I'm more keen to simply add premix. (If you install a PFC you can dump the OMP altogether).

Dave

billet

iTrader: (2)

It appears I was ahead of myself with the gauges as they arrived with the necessary parts. (You were right Dave) On to my next set of questions, but here is the damage that I have done so far.

I've picked up a set of Direzza Z1 tires. I previously ordered replacement, stock, water hoses from Mazda along with an assortment of other items such as the Y-pipe kit. Dale Clark check valves, Silicon Vaccum Hoses from Hose Techniques, Aluminum AST, NGK Plug Wires and this is where I have stopped.

Of course this car couldn't be more stock and I'm pretty certain this is the touring edition as it does not have the suspension components like the sport. Front Strut bar, etc.

My focus, at this moment, is on reliability and prolonging the engine life longer than others listed in this forum (sorry for the offense). I recognize there are multiple schools of thought and some have come and gone from hard lessons learned. I've heard things about water cooled, to OMP, AST, pre-mixing and more as I continue to read.

I figure I have a clean slate to really be creative with today's ideas about performance and reliablity.

This leads me to my next set of questions for direction: water cooling as I belive Howard Coleman has done and Cold Air Intakes.

Before we get to water cooling, what is a proper intake to consider? I have a R1 so I only have a single oil cooler, if that helps. I'm not convinced with some of the kits out there having the filter just hanging about trying to get cold air when it is pratically next to a hot engine. Suggestions?

Even though the thread talked about Pre-Mixing and the OMP, I'm very interested in researching/installing an assortment of things that will address heat and carbon build up.

Pre-Cat Downpipe, recommendations or will any do?

Of course I'm in the SF Bay Area so I have to get it smogged. Luckily for me I haven't done anything yet and I have to get smogged by June. =)

Thanks in advance for the assistance!

billet

iTrader: (2)

Oh, don't forget the radiator and intercooler.

I'm following this helpful list here:

Start by making it reliable:
- install a downpipe
- install a SMIC
- replace the radiator and AST with an all-aluminum one
- replace all cooling hoses
- replace the check valves and any vacuum hoses that have gotten hard. Use good quality silicone hose and viton-elastomer check valves.
- check that the pillowballs in the suspension are good. Ditto for the diff bushings, motor mounts, trailing arm bushings, and rear toe link bushings.
- replace the engine oil, trans fluid, and diff fluid
- bleed brakes and rebuild the calipers if the dust seals look crusty
- new street tires. I'd recommend a set of good autocross street tires like the RE-11, Direzza Z1 Star Spec, Ecsta XS, or Advan AD-08.
- optionally, a cold air intake kit and cat-back system are a good idea. So is an Apexi PowerFC ECU.
- make sure the boost is working correctly, install a boost controller since excess boost blows motors.
- with the track time you mention, a set of track brake pads for track days.
- get your alignment set to the pettitracing.com "short track" setup. It's not as responsive as the autocross setup but it's very versatile.